Thread and needle
#11
For me, the best piecing thread is Aurifil. People often baulk at the price, but ArchaicArcane did a price comparison a while ago which may surprise you (can't get the link to open for posting - sorry).
For quilting you need a 90/14 Topstich needle or bigger, if you have a thread thicker than 40wt - the most common quilting weight. It's also possible to quilt with piecing/50wt thread, but if there are only two twists instead of three, you may find it breaks more easily.
I like Superior King Tut for quilting - rare to get a break, but I have also quilted very successfully with Connecting Threads on a long arm.
For quilting you need a 90/14 Topstich needle or bigger, if you have a thread thicker than 40wt - the most common quilting weight. It's also possible to quilt with piecing/50wt thread, but if there are only two twists instead of three, you may find it breaks more easily.
I like Superior King Tut for quilting - rare to get a break, but I have also quilted very successfully with Connecting Threads on a long arm.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: North Wales
Posts: 473
I really like Mettler threads, but also use Presencia without difficulty. King Tut too. (This is just for piecing on the machine, as I hand quilt - for which I use YLI)
Needles, I'm afraid I don't pay much attention as long as it works - I use Schmetz, can't remember the number but it is a general one, not specialist (I don't use metallics, etc., or at least I haven't yet!!)
Needles, I'm afraid I don't pay much attention as long as it works - I use Schmetz, can't remember the number but it is a general one, not specialist (I don't use metallics, etc., or at least I haven't yet!!)
#14
Power Poster
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 17,717
We pay so much for these machines, why cheap it with cheap needles and thread?
However, keep in mind it is not all about the needles and thread.
The fabric and batting used create different situations, requirements and effects.
Also too, tension and machine settings have an effect.
Knowing your machine is important.
Perhaps the best step to resolution would be to take your machine to your dealer along with a show and tell (aka samples) of what's happening. Stitch there in front of him/her and get some help!
However, keep in mind it is not all about the needles and thread.
The fabric and batting used create different situations, requirements and effects.
Also too, tension and machine settings have an effect.
Knowing your machine is important.
Perhaps the best step to resolution would be to take your machine to your dealer along with a show and tell (aka samples) of what's happening. Stitch there in front of him/her and get some help!
#15
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 24,415
We pay so much for these machines, why cheap it with cheap needles and thread?
However, keep in mind it is not all about the needles and thread.
The fabric and batting used create different situations, requirements and effects.
Also too, tension and machine settings have an effect.
Knowing your machine is important.
Perhaps the best step to resolution would be to take your machine to your dealer along with a show and tell (aka samples) of what's happening. Stitch there in front of him/her and get some help!
However, keep in mind it is not all about the needles and thread.
The fabric and batting used create different situations, requirements and effects.
Also too, tension and machine settings have an effect.
Knowing your machine is important.
Perhaps the best step to resolution would be to take your machine to your dealer along with a show and tell (aka samples) of what's happening. Stitch there in front of him/her and get some help!
#16
Power Poster
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Southern California
Posts: 19,131
As others have suggested, I would refer to your dealer having this conversations when you take your DSM in for it's servicing. I was told when I bought my Bernina in the 90s, to use Mettler Silk Wrapped thread. Now that a variety of others have come out, I still prefer to use the old reliable Mettler.
#17
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 10,590
As others have suggested, I would refer to your dealer having this conversations when you take your DSM in for it's servicing. I was told when I bought my Bernina in the 90s, to use Mettler Silk Wrapped thread. Now that a variety of others have come out, I still prefer to use the old reliable Mettler.
http://www.mettlerthreads.co.uk/acatalog/MettlerSilkFinish150m.html
To the OP, I think Quilt E gave you the best advice. Thread and needles, like fabric and batting are completely subjective. There are several quality products on the market and several economy ones. I prefer Schmetz needles but I use many different types of threads for piecing and quilting. I even use two different threads at the same time. Right now I am very happy using Superior's bottom line in my bobbin for piecing and Aurifil 50wt 2 ply in the top. But I have used other products I was equally happy with and there are many I have not tried yet like masterpiece by superior and Presencia. For quilting I would never, ever limit myself to one type/brand of thread. Depends on the look you are trying to achieve and the application. Sometimes what works best for you in one situation does not in another.
One thing I thought I would mention, is that all the threads I currently use and love can not be bought in a box store like walmart, Joannes or hobby lobby. I have to order on line, pick them up a LQS or at a show. so if you limit yourself to only what you can get locally (as opposed to buying on line) you may never find the right combination for you.
Last edited by feline fanatic; 07-17-2014 at 04:49 AM.
#18
Power Poster
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 17,717
As others have suggested, I would refer to your dealer having this conversations when you take your DSM in for it's servicing. I was told when I bought my Bernina in the 90s, to use Mettler Silk Wrapped thread. Now that a variety of others have come out, I still prefer to use the old reliable Mettler.
It is recommended that if you are using a different thread as your go-to, to have the technician set your machine up for such.
When mine was in for a servicing, this came up in a side discussion .... and as a result, mine was re-set for Aurifil.
#19
Different people like different kinds of thread so you really have to find one that works for you that you like. I stay away from the cheaper threads. For piecing I use Aurifil in both top and bobbin. Next would be Gutermaan. I use gray for piecing.
One thing to keep in mind is that your needle and your thread should be compatible. The larger the number on the thread the thinner the thread (ie 50 weight thread is thinner than 30 weight). The opposite is true for needles - the larger the number the larger the needle. There are also different points on needles. Sharps are for cottons because their point is is pointed to pierce the fabric. Ball point needles have a rounded tip and for knits. Rather than pierce the fabric they slide between the fibers. Universal is a cross between a sharp and a ball point. Not as sharp as a sharp but not as rounded as a ball point. This one and sharps are used most commonly for piecing. For FMQ it depends on the weight of the thread you are using. Universal needles work fine with some thread but you might also try quilting needles and top stitch needles which have larger eyes in them. If you are using metallic thread there are needles for that. I also keep some blue jean needles on hand for sewing that I do with denim. I find that 80 Universal needles are generally my go-to needles for most anything. I generally buy Schmetz brand. Changing your needle frequently is also important. Sewing dulls needles and when needles get dull not only do they have a difficult time piercing the fabric but can damage the fabric and your machine (bobbin area) in the process.
One thing to keep in mind is that your needle and your thread should be compatible. The larger the number on the thread the thinner the thread (ie 50 weight thread is thinner than 30 weight). The opposite is true for needles - the larger the number the larger the needle. There are also different points on needles. Sharps are for cottons because their point is is pointed to pierce the fabric. Ball point needles have a rounded tip and for knits. Rather than pierce the fabric they slide between the fibers. Universal is a cross between a sharp and a ball point. Not as sharp as a sharp but not as rounded as a ball point. This one and sharps are used most commonly for piecing. For FMQ it depends on the weight of the thread you are using. Universal needles work fine with some thread but you might also try quilting needles and top stitch needles which have larger eyes in them. If you are using metallic thread there are needles for that. I also keep some blue jean needles on hand for sewing that I do with denim. I find that 80 Universal needles are generally my go-to needles for most anything. I generally buy Schmetz brand. Changing your needle frequently is also important. Sewing dulls needles and when needles get dull not only do they have a difficult time piercing the fabric but can damage the fabric and your machine (bobbin area) in the process.
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 9,018
I personally think the originator of this thread is not having a " cheap" thread problem, but a machine settings problem...tensions, needle size or set in incorrectly or even a timing problem...or perhaps the thread from the bobbin is not " pathed" right.....have had Singers, Vikings, then bought a Babylock...in a class wondered why the stitches were such a mess....bobbin thread was not set in right! In other machines I just snapped in bobbin and away I go.....something that simple made such a mess, but a lesson learned....
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