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Thread: ergonomic sewing table

  1. #1
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    ergonomic sewing table

    Has anyone made one of those ergonomic sewing tables with the blue foam insulation panels? Please tell us your experience if you have. I am thinking about doing it but need encouragement.

  2. #2
    Power Poster QuiltE's Avatar
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    No I have not ... however, keep in mind that making a table using the insulation panels does not necessarily make it ergonomic. The height of the finished surface, the height of your chair and your own height and proportions affect how ergonomically desirable it will be.

    It's definitely a good step, but be sure to factor in all that needs to be or you may be wondering why you spent the time and money to do it!
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    Sew many ideas ... just sew little time!!
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  3. #3
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    When you have your height adjusted, another help is to put some angled lifts under the back of your machine. That will tilt the sewing area just enough to make it much less tiring. I use rubber door stops so my machine doesn't slip off of them (and they are cheap and I didn't have to wait for hubby to make something).

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by flybreit View Post
    When you have your height adjusted, another help is to put some angled lifts under the back of your machine. That will tilt the sewing area just enough to make it much less tiring. I use rubber door stops so my machine doesn't slip off of them (and they are cheap and I didn't have to wait for hubby to make something).
    Excellent idea - thanks!

  5. #5
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    When you're at a sewing desk, your arms should sit approximately flat on the desk. Right angles to your body. I won't give a measurement, because I'm almost certainly not the same height as you are.

    I looked at the option to use the foam, but decided against it. Why? At the end of the day, before adding foam, my desk was too tall. My shoulders were already around my ears, and I had "Dracula arms". Adding the foam would have made my ergonomics worse, regardless of any chair I could use.

    So instead of going UP, I went down. I recessed my machine into my desk. Best decision I ever made. If you have the room, pick something up from a thrift store, or a government surplus (these are my favorite, the furniture is really sturdy, and really cheap) and hack about. I found that even once I'd recessed my machine that it was still a little tall, so I shortened the legs. When you pay $10 for a desk, you can do that without feeling like you're throwing a bunch of money away.

    ETA: These are 2 different posts. The post got fractured when it was copied to the tutorials forum.

    Height adjustable desk that can recess a machine - it's true!
    Height adjustable desk that can recess a machine - it's true!

    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 99-, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

  6. #6
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    Thank you so much for the attached pictures and "how to" instructions. I just love your idea and the cost too. Thanks again. krjkrj

  7. #7
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krjkrj View Post
    Thank you so much for the attached pictures and "how to" instructions. I just love your idea and the cost too. Thanks again. krjkrj
    My pleasure! I hope it helps you.
    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 99-, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

  8. #8
    Junior Member bobbiesboutique's Avatar
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    Yes my husband made me one with a 24x36 in. slab of pine an inch thick and used 2 in. dowel rods for legs he cut out a prfect piece for my Singer Quantum Stylist 9960 to slide into like the original extension table I love it we tossed around the idea of the expensive glass table and then the foam core boards but we decided this was the least expensive and most practical for me. I put velcro squares under the dowel rod legs so it doesnt move and for the top I have clear vinyl with velcro squares holding that so it doesnt shift I keep my cutting mat under that for easy access but Ive thought of painting a quilt square on it like a barn star or maybe staining the wood or myfavorite quilt blocks or photos and maybe even a pattern I maybe working on so many fun options . I wish I could add a picture but I just havent figured out how to do that yet but I will keep trying. I also like the space I have under the extension table for mags, etc. I do hope you find something you love as much as I love mine.

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