cricket_iscute

Hi Joe. When I acquire a new-to-me machine, I test every function fully and then keep track of what works well and for what function on a spreadsheet. I choose the machine that works best for the function needed. I have been known to use five different machines on one quilt, using each for a specific task. I should mention that I also make art quilts, in addition to regular quilts.

I don't use the Singer 401, 500, Kenmore, Elnas, and other Pfaffs for piecing because I get great results with the 221 and 301, and Pfaff 130. I do often use the 401 or 500, but not for the projects that require precision; I find the feed system on the Singer 221 to be superior when I really need to get accuracy to 1/32 of an inch; for instance, on some of the patterns John Flynn teaches. What I mean by "extreme precision" is 1/32 of an inch or one 50 weight thread width; I have worked with quilt show judges and if something is two thread widths off, they mark down for it, but they know that if something is one thread width off, it probably cannot be corrected. So if I'm doing a competition quilt, I am likely to use the 221 or maybe Pfaff 130. I need that precision engineering and the feed system on the 221 is just different enough to make an impact. Of course, a block with many pieces also needs more precision. I'm about to start piecing a top with over thirteen hundred pieces and for that, I will use the Featherweight.

I do find that quilting - and by that, I mean straight line quilting using a straight or decorative stitch - is excellent on the 401 or 500. I don't even need a walking foot, although I have several. I don't need any special foot; the wide zig zag foot will do the job. I often use these machines to quilt homeless quilts but not to free motion quilt them, as there are other machines that work better (especially the Singer 301). Some of the homeless quilts I make are unusually thick because some shelters do not have heat at night and they might contain upholstery fabric, wool, etc.; those are easily quilted on the 401 or 500. I also use the 401 and 500 for clothing, as well as the Kenmore.

I don't use the Kenmore for precision piecing because the 158.xxx I have does not allow stitches smaller than 12 per inch, and I generally use 15 or 20 stitches to the inch, or even more, to be sure the quilt stays together. Other than that, I like the Kenmore, but I think it is designed for clothing more than quilting.

Now regarding vintage Pfaffs, the 1171 in particular, I love it for binding and use it almost exclusively for binding because of the accufeed system. That saves whole lot of hassle and trouble. But the same machine is not good for piecing because it tends to gobble fabric at the beginning of seams even though I always use a thread starter. Also, frankly, I don't have the right throat plate and feet for piecing on that one and I'm not going to buy them as the machine itself is very fussy; it is not worth the hassle to me.

I don't use the Elnas except occasionally as they just don't do for me what the other machines do. If I were going to sell machines, I would probably start with the vintage Elnas, except for the Grasshopper. That has a true low gear and is valuable for that reason.

I have a Viking 6000 series machine that is good for piecing and fmq.

Did I answer your question?

Cricket

J Miller

Cricket,

Yes you answered it quite well.

I don't do "competition quilts", so I guess that aspect of quilting just didn't occur to me. Quilts for sleeping under is what I do and those are enough.

Thanks for going to all the trouble to post this. It did explain a lot.

Joe

amcatanzaro

I dislike my modern Janome for piecing because it eats the fabric at the beginning. I always thought it operator error but when I started using my 201 for piecing I was stunned at how much easier it was to deal with.

Good to know I'm not alone with that. Less crazy for me!

cricket_iscute

You are most welcome, Joe.

Cricket

path49

All 3 of my 158 Kenmores (& all the other ones I've owned) will go all the way down to 0 SPI. You also need tiny stitches for clothing....to reinforce corners, etc. What model do you have?

cricket_iscute

Path49, I went to find my manual and determined the Kenmore is a Model 1703, and I think that means 158.1703, a zig zag machine with decorative stitches. Perhaps you might know if that is a correct designation, with the 158 in front of the 1703? The manual does say that the red mark on the stitch length control does support satin stitching, and maybe that means it will do smaller stitches than 12 per inch. Does that apply to straight stitching? I've only done one quilt on this machine, and that was because I had to back stitch or go over every line of stitching. Is there something I don't know?

If it will do 20 stitches to the inch, then I will need to find a piecing foot. Do you know where I might find that?

Can you do straight line quilting with your Kenmores? Can you do free motion quilting? Also, would you know if there is an easy way to get the top off the machine so I can finish servicing it?

Thanks,
Cricket

manicmike

I've seen precisely one in Australia, and I'm looking every single day for sewing machines, so outside North America they're very rare.
If ckcowl has a 99 as her favourite then, since a 66 and 201 would make the same quality stitch you probably don't like drop in bobbin machines. Model 15s are very popular around QB, so maybe you should look at one? In Australia they're not as common as 66/99/201 but still come up often. Japanese clones are even better value, as they usually sell for very little and are excellent machines from the 1950s. Most 15s and all the clones I've seen have a feed dog you can drop, if you're interested in free motion work. Of course I'm not a quilter so for all I know it could be a well know fact that a 15 is rubbish at piecing
I don't have the space either, but I seem to find new hiding spots for new machines every week!

path49

Cricket, The top probably just pulls off...just pull up on it. Most 158's have little catches under the lid & they just pull off. Yes, it's a 158.1703.

And yeah, just go towards the red area & the stitches will get progressively shorter...the far end of the red area should be 0 SPI. And that's for straight or zigzag stitches.

I'm not a quilter, other than small projects like bags, placemats, etc....I'm primarily a garment sewer. But for small projects, mine straight line quilts just fine....with or without a walking foot. To be honest, I've not tried free motion quilting on any of my Kenmores but, my 1755 has a button to drop the feed dogs. I drop them to darn jeans for the grandkids. My other 2 have a feed cover plate....gonna have to try it.

cricket_iscute

Thank you, path49. I'm going to have to play with that machine soon.

And in answer to manicmike, Model 15 clones piece nicely, in my experience. Not quite as well as the Featherweight for precision or the 301 in general, but certainly acceptably. In fact, a well-maintained clone is as pleasurable and trouble-free as the 301, in my experience. The 301 is gear driven and has more power. The 301 is a consistent joy to use (one of mine is named JoyBoy) and my Model 15 clones are not far behind. I will be using mine again as soon as I free up some table space.

Cricket

Littlebearquiltingboard

Mike, I need to get my 15 out and try it for piecing. When it was out it was great for free motion. I'm hoping to get it set up in it's treadle this weekend.

I had a Pinnock which I sold and I am thinking that that would have been a very good machine for piecing if I had given it half a chance.