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#31
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
I've been slowly fiddling with the White Rotary. I removed the hardware and stripped what was left of the old finish off the case using steel wool and lacquer thinner-it was way too far gone to mess with-and am slowly gluing all the loose joints back together on it. Olivia turned a new knob for the slide-out lid on the inside on her lathe. I still need to pick up some 1/8 plywood (door skin) for a new bottom.
I oiled the machine and let it sit until today. Patience isn't a trait I'm known for. It was still stuck solid. The only part that would move was the balance wheel. Don't try this, I won't be responsible for any broken or mangled parts. I took the wheel off and put a pipe wrench on the end of the shaft. I got lucky! I freed up the machine AND didn't manage to break anything. After I got things turning a bit I added more oil to everything I could reach and have been working it some more. It's still a bit tight but not bad. The stitch length adjustment is still stuck and everything needs a serious cleaning but I'm happy with the progress.
Is there a service manual free online anywhere for White Rotaries? I'm trying to figure out how to take the nose apart to clean and oil everything in it. I found the two screws that hold it on the arm but couldn't get it off the machine.
Rodney
I oiled the machine and let it sit until today. Patience isn't a trait I'm known for. It was still stuck solid. The only part that would move was the balance wheel. Don't try this, I won't be responsible for any broken or mangled parts. I took the wheel off and put a pipe wrench on the end of the shaft. I got lucky! I freed up the machine AND didn't manage to break anything. After I got things turning a bit I added more oil to everything I could reach and have been working it some more. It's still a bit tight but not bad. The stitch length adjustment is still stuck and everything needs a serious cleaning but I'm happy with the progress.
Is there a service manual free online anywhere for White Rotaries? I'm trying to figure out how to take the nose apart to clean and oil everything in it. I found the two screws that hold it on the arm but couldn't get it off the machine.
Rodney
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 609
Theres a how to on treadleon to get the cover off the nose and back on again. I had the same trouble you're probably running into.
http://www.treadleon.net/sewingmachi...aceplaste.html
http://www.treadleon.net/sewingmachi...aceplaste.html
#40
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
I got the stitch length lever unstuck. The part that was stuck was the part farthest up inside the head. That's how it goes for me, it's never the easy to get to stuff that gives me fits, it's always the stuff that I can't reach, I could barely even see the part. It's working now but needs re-assembled. It took over an hour of fiddling to get it to break loose. I used excessive force (again) and it went with a loud pop when it finally broke free. I could have sworn that I broke something but got very lucky this time.
I think I'm going to buy some kerosene to use as a solvent for these machines. This White is absolutely filthy inside, so much so that I want (need) to flush every part on it inside and out to remove all the rust, grit,dirt and grease and dried oil out of it before I go much farther. I don't think I'm quite brave enough to tackle what it really needs-a full teardown and cleaning of every single part in it- so I'm going to settle for scrubbing and flushing everything I can get to instead.
Sewing machine oil is too expensive for general cleaning chores of this magnitude plus I think the kerosene will work better for dissolving old oil and other yuck in the places I can't get to easily. While alcohol is fine on metal parts removed from the machine, I don't want it anywhere near my finish. Mineral spirits is usually pretty safe but I do wonder if it contributed to damaging the shellac clear coat on my daughter's 99, I don't want to test it on this machine.
I'm going to be settling in for some quality time with Qtips, old toothbrushes and old rags on this one. I think I'll give my buffing setup a workout too.
I'll be needing it for the White Cari gave me too. That one is in worse shape. The hook area is severely rusted from being in direct contact with the ground. I may be looking for a donor machine for that one. It would probably make more sense to use Cari's machine for a donor but I'm stubborn and foolish that way.
I'm very impressed with this machine so far. I'm no expert on old sewing machines but the engineering on this machine is very good, I think in some ways superior to the Singers that were being made at the same time.
The oil has been working it's magic now that it can seep into the areas where it's needed. The machine turns very freely now. I expect this machine to be a joy to sew with when it's done.
QUESTION: I took a look at Sew-Classic's website but didn't see them there. I'm going to need new drive wheels for these machines. Both are the conical type. Does anyone know a good source? I'll probably need new bobbin tires too.
Rodney
I think I'm going to buy some kerosene to use as a solvent for these machines. This White is absolutely filthy inside, so much so that I want (need) to flush every part on it inside and out to remove all the rust, grit,dirt and grease and dried oil out of it before I go much farther. I don't think I'm quite brave enough to tackle what it really needs-a full teardown and cleaning of every single part in it- so I'm going to settle for scrubbing and flushing everything I can get to instead.
Sewing machine oil is too expensive for general cleaning chores of this magnitude plus I think the kerosene will work better for dissolving old oil and other yuck in the places I can't get to easily. While alcohol is fine on metal parts removed from the machine, I don't want it anywhere near my finish. Mineral spirits is usually pretty safe but I do wonder if it contributed to damaging the shellac clear coat on my daughter's 99, I don't want to test it on this machine.
I'm going to be settling in for some quality time with Qtips, old toothbrushes and old rags on this one. I think I'll give my buffing setup a workout too.
I'll be needing it for the White Cari gave me too. That one is in worse shape. The hook area is severely rusted from being in direct contact with the ground. I may be looking for a donor machine for that one. It would probably make more sense to use Cari's machine for a donor but I'm stubborn and foolish that way.
I'm very impressed with this machine so far. I'm no expert on old sewing machines but the engineering on this machine is very good, I think in some ways superior to the Singers that were being made at the same time.
The oil has been working it's magic now that it can seep into the areas where it's needed. The machine turns very freely now. I expect this machine to be a joy to sew with when it's done.
QUESTION: I took a look at Sew-Classic's website but didn't see them there. I'm going to need new drive wheels for these machines. Both are the conical type. Does anyone know a good source? I'll probably need new bobbin tires too.
Rodney
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