MFord

I've been using the Gutermann cotton thread from Joann's in mine and it is happy!

cjtinkle

Candace, a while back I was using the ruffler foot on the 222, and it jammed up badly and broke the needle. I'm fairly certain I knocked the timing out. I guess I'm just looking for confirmation before I proceed with having my hubby retime it. I've heard that the needle bar could also be out of alignment, which would cause skipped stitches.

I've already taken apart the hook to make sure it was clean. I think I'll leave that to my hubby next time too, I didn't think I was ever going to get that teensy screw back in the gib! I just don't see well enough anymore

ArchaicArcane

I've had to time probably 3 featherweights this year. Not what I would call "a lot" but certainly more than I would have expected.

ETA: The scenario you describe could have pushed the needle bar up, which would easily cause skipped stitches. How many skipped stitches in say a 3 inch seam?

For all the people having trouble with their machines being picky about threads, I have a question:
What tension adjustments have you done to compensate when you change threads? Just like we all don't fit into a size 8 jean - some of us are smaller some are larger - threads require different adjustments to "fit" better too.

I want to know because it was the #1 problem people had in the class I taught this spring and the solution was simple.

Candace

For sure could be the timing. Really, the needle bar height is part of the timing on the machine so that would be fairly easy to spot.

cjtinkle

I would say it skips a stitch about every 2-3 inches. Sometimes a lot less, rarely more.

When switching from a 50wt 2ply, to a 50wt 3 ply, I wouldn't think a tension adjustment would be needed. I never have to adjust the tension on any of my numerous other machines switching even from a 50wt to a 60wt. From 50wt to 12wt, sure.

ArchaicArcane

Needle flat left? every 2 - 3 inches sounds a lot like the 201 that we were troubleshooting a few months back and it turned out to be a needle in wrong. I've done it myself recently, even though I know better. You can check the timing on it very easily though. Perhaps someone else can point you to the post / video I'm not to post.

The thing about thread weights is that they're not standard. We use them as a guideline. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OJa...S2--0Hk5XcbRMs

50/2 vs 50/3 could in theory be different enough. I've also found that different machines like more adjustments than others. I serviced 4 featherweights in a row the other day and not one of them was exactly the same setting for the top tensioners. I set the bottom tensions the same on all of them, but 2 landed at way more turns in than the other 2 for the same tension up top.

I mention it only because I've seen tension problems mistaken for timing many times. Conversely, a timing problem can look like a tension problem.

Oh! and to answer your original question: I use Aurifil mostly on my FW but have never had trouble with anything I've tried to use. All thread choices here are due to my own thread snobbery, not those of my machines.

cjtinkle

Yes, the needle is in correctly. I just got done changing out the belt on the machine from one of the plastic orange ones to an replica original from april1930s.com. Oddly enough, I put Aurifil back on the machine and it hasn't skipped once. I only changed it because I hated the look of the orange, and the sound it makes. That's rather bizarre isn't it? I've had that orange belt since I purchased the machine. FWIW, it never skipped stitches before the ruffler foot jam and resulting broken needle.

The other think I occasionally run into on this particular featherweight, is if I sew fast on it, the bobbin thread will hop out of the tension spring. Never happens when I sew slowly.

This machine is a bit temperamental. But she has the prettiest stitch when she's behaving!

ArchaicArcane

I had to check since I think we went 5 pages of diagnosis and I had almost filmed a video on checking timing before we figured out the needle. What did you take off the machine to put on the Aurifil?

Those orange cogged belts sound awful. I don't like them either.

What's your bobbin tension set to? If you count the number of turns before you hit full tight, you can put it back to what it started at. There are only 3 things I can think of that would let that thread pop out of the bobbin tension spring.
1. The tension spring is damaged.
2. The tension is set way too low.
3. The bobbin is in with the thread pulling off the bobbin clockwise - it should come off widdershins - and possibly one of the above two problems to a smaller degree.

What happens if you use that bobbin case in your other featherweight? Does it jump out there too?

ETA: if she's grumpy, it might also help you to try a thread stand for the cross wound thread. I find my little Ronnie (FW) likes her thread delivered from the thread stand better. It could have to do with the cross wound threads wanting to come off the top of the spool and the jerk and stop of the thread when on the featherweight might tighten a little here and there and cause no space for the hook to grab the thread?

cjtinkle

Hmmm... I have not tried this bobbin case in my other featherweight. I'll try it and run it at full speed.

My bobbin tension is actually pretty tight. I normally keep my other machines bobbin tension so that when I lay it flat in my hand and lift the thread, the bobbin case stands up and just barely leaves my hand before spooling back down. On both featherweights, I have it set much tighter. I was unable to get a nice tension with it looser.

I had Mettler 50wt cotton on prior to the Aurifil. It's a smidge thicker.

cjtinkle

Yep, the same thing happens in the other featherweight. I think maybe the tension spring is worn out on that particular case.