Mickey2

The old straight stitchers I have used; 66, 99, cast iron 201 as well as the later beige aluminium bodied 201, takes up to #19. There's not a limit directly set for them, but from the needle - tread size chart in the manual it goes up to #19. I know they take the Chinese made #20 and #22 needles, with plenty of clearing for the needle plate hole, as well as the same alignment for hook and race as smaller size needle. My old Elna Supermatic accepts these as well. I promise, I have tested it thoroughly. The straight stitchers were made in a time before nylon thread. Thicker thread was needed to give the same strength, cotton and linen weres most common. Silk is the strongest, but doesn't stand up to regular cleaning, so not that much used. Nylon thread wasn't very common until the 50s.

KathyJB

I used a soft toothbrush to clean the feed dogs so the hounds are dust free. I do need to clean it better but I don't have the proper solvent for that right now. I saw where somebody said kerosene so I'll get some on my next trip to town

miriam

I hate using kerosene. Do you have any rubbing alcohol? be sure not to use it on the black finish or it will eat it but you can use it on the works - a higher alcohol content is what you want. Paint thinner or naphtha will clean things up with out a residue if alcohol doesn't do the job.

miriam

Mickey, just because the needle will go down the hole doesn't mean you should use a big honkin needle. Finding and polishing out burrs caused by stunts like that is a pain. Bent needle bars from putting too heavy a load on a machine aren't fun either. If you seriously NEED a machine that uses a big needle like that buy an old industrial walking foot machine (not a high speed industrial) and use it unless your machine is disposable & wear safety glasses.

KathyJB

Yes I do but I want to get what is best for this machine. I don't want to hurt it in any way. Thank you

miriam

Seriously?

MFord

90%+ rubbing alcohol is better than kerosene. I'm not sure it was readily available in the "olden days ((that's pre-2010 for me!), so people used kerosene. It's much harder to clean up after than alcohol. Just use it on the metal parts, though, because it will hurt the japanning. If you have any rust, Evaporust works well to remove it. Don't leave the metal pieces in too long or they turn black! I'm thinking an hour or two at most, definitely not 24+ hours....

I haven't used naphtha, but I believe it won't hurt the japanning like the alcohol does. Best to remove any metal parts that are easy to replace, and use a Q-tip or old tee shirt cloth to clean the other parts - or a toothbrush dipped in alcohol.

I don't have a 201 myself, but I believe they are really great machines! Haven't found one cheap enough yet!

Mickey2

Have you tried them? The 130 needles available in larger sizes will work fine with the old cast iron straight stitchers, there is luxurious clearing in all ends from needle plate to every part under there. I'm not saying all machines can go above a size #18 needle.

KathyJB

Did you hear me? I am laughing with glee because after 7 tries I got the tension working perfectly and a number 18 needle in the right way. I am having so much fun on this machine.

davevv

The main reason I usually recommend kerosene is because it will not harm the finish of the machine if you happen to get some on there. In fact, I usually use it to also clean the finish because it works faster than sewing machine oil on really filthy old machines. Plus, in my experience, it frees up sticky mechanisms just as quick as alcohol. If need be, any residue from the kerosene can be safely wiped off with naptha. The only complaint I have with kerosene is the smell.

Alcohol works fine for removing dried oil and grease, but you've got to be darned sure you don't ever get any on the finish of a prized machine.