OurWorkbench

What is FW-HASB you ask? Well for me it is featherweight- horizontal arm shaft bushing

Why I'm asking is that I found a close to pristine Featherweight at the the thrift store that doesn't work.
I would have to say that this machine's condition is probably close to:
"8: Very good used condition. All paint good; all metalwork bright. What the
average antique dealer would call "perfect"."
It does have some wear spots and a couple of chips on the hand wheel (I may have made, but being very careful). The case is not as good and missing some of the original accessories that would have come with it.

When I tried the hand wheel, it would barely budge. I figured a thread jam - especially because of recent discussions here.
I did find some thread pieces that I pulled out after removing the bobbin case. Try again - same results. Okay still thinking thread jam. I removed the rotating hook bobbin case base and nothing there. I did find a thread that I was able to remove by easily unwinding around the hook loop guard. It didn't look as if it had been wound tight like the curly thread that has been on bobbin for a long time. Still not able to move hand wheel.

Okay, must need fresh oil and grease. Cleaned oil holes, gears and grease cups. It looked like there was grease in two places that should have had oil. One was on top by the pressure regulating thumb screw & the other was on top just to the right of the arm top cover. Tri-flow for oil and Singer lubricant (metal tube) in proper places. Let sit overnight - same results.

I know the instructions tell you, "If, after standing for some time, the machine works heavily, use a little Kerosene in place of oil. Then run the machine rapidly to clean the bearings." Now would be the time to check motor so can run rapidly. Well, if the hand wheel won't turn... I didn't think that the motor and belt would either -- and it didn't. I don't remember the exact order of checking but some of the things I tried. Such as adjusting belt tension both tighter & looser, switching belt & again tighter and looser. Couldn't get it to move. Somewhere in time, I also checked to see if motor/belt would wind the bobbin, so undid the shiny metal knob -aka "stop motion clamp screw". The bobbin winder - belt - motor WORKS. Now why is the the rest of it not working?

So I put kerosene in all the oil holes and proper places in the instructions - I left grease cups in motor alone. I let it set over night and still not moving correctly. I let it set for another day.

I decided the next course of action would be to try Kroil. I wrapped the motor and terminal body with plastic wrap. I placed an absorbent pad in the bottom of a contractor trash bag, placed the machine in the bag and sprayed (with narrow straw) all the places where metal to metal, except gears that I could get to. I had it outside in the sun and closed the bag and let it sit for a little while. After a bit, got it to turn a little more freely. So since I knew motor was ok, I put the belt on and plugged it in. Got it to move a bit, but sluggishly. I decided that it needed some heat and got out a mini hair dryer. Started at the bottom - that wasn't helping. Thinking that maybe since I had seen some evidence of the probability of grease in the top oil holes and thinking there was some there that I would try to melt/flush grease out. As I ran the dryer, the motor started speeding up -- I was getting somewhere. I ran it for a bit with the dryer aimed there. Upon turning the dryer off the motor slowed down. Ran it a bit more with dryer on low. Figured I would give it a break. Let it set for a bit and tried again to run without the dryer. It tried to run, but until I directed the dryer again it was barely moving. I thought I would put too much load on the motor so stopped. Maybe now if I Tri-flowed it that would be a good thing. Well, I oiled it again with Tri-Flow and let sit. Try again, same thing would barely run without the dryer. I figured I'd let it run a bit to disperse oil, and that it might need some more so oiled a few places while it was running. Again slowed down after removing heat. Thinking maybe let it set overnight to give Tri-flow a chance to work.

Since I knew I couldn't turn the hand wheel in the very beginning, I did not even try to take a stitch with 'her'. Let's see -- check list:
1. Remove thread jams -- Done (including behind hand wheel - there wasn't any thread behind the hand wheel)
2. Clean and lubricate -- Done a couple of times.
3. Adjust -- Adjust what??? and how???

The next morning, hoping all would be well, I tried again. No such luck. Quite by accident, I had stuck a plastic tube down in the oil hole for the horizonal arm shaft bushing (45704 on the parts chart - there are two of them on the horizontal arm shaft). I notice that both oil holes have a very small ledge before it drops down to the arm shaft. I checked with another FW and the holes are all the same size all the way down.

Okay, I am a fairly decent researcher, and I had tried to find a possible solution or reason for an almost like new FW to have these exact symptoms. I couldn't come up with a similar scenario. I did find one place that seemed to address the problem of a FW sewing okay and then as it heated up would start turning sluggishly and when let cool would sew. I was having the opposite problem. Is the solution the same? The answer seemed to be end play of the horizontal arm shaft. It appears to me that the bushings somehow got twisted, rotated, misaligned, messed up, misplaced or something and are not in the proper position to operate like a typical featherweight.

I don't know if the end play adjustment would work or if it is more complicated or maybe just a lemon out of the factory. I have been trying to be careful, but I feel like I'm adding inadvertently to additional wear & tear to this beautiful machine. Has anyone else run across this problem? Any detailed advice would be greatly appreciated. I tried to follow the directions on page 30 of the Adjuster's Manual but it didn't appear that the balance wheel bushing moves when the screw is loosened.

I'm wondering what to do. Maybe this would be better left to someone who has more experience and better tools. I'd sure like to say, "I fixed it myself." Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

miriam

I oiled a 15 Clone yesterday - it would not turn for a few hours. Mine had all the usual places baptized with oil. There are places where dried up oil hides and until you get to it you just can't move the machine. After I figured out the stupid thing was reluctant to turn I turned the machine upside down and reoiled. I turned it every direction I could think of and tried to rock it just a little until it turned. Then I oiled and turned again. The idea of it only turning with heat is because you have dried gummy oil somewhere. You are headed in the right direction as far as I can tell. Just don't force it. Gentle rocking and oiling and time... I must have neglected to oil behind the horizontal arm in the front or else oil just didn't get oil in there. I kept thinking the back end by the hand wheel was what was stuck. It was when I focused on the nose end behind all the stuff you can see that it finally moved. What I don't like about Kroil is you have to be sure to get oil on things so it doesn't make rust. Tri-flow or even sewing machine oil and time will usually get things moving. Some times people use 3 in 1 oil and when that stuff sets up it is like chewing goat meat. It just keeps going....

I had one machine that had a broken needle point stuck some place. Once the broken tip fell out the machine moved just fine.

Then a while ago I had a stuck Kenmore 15 clone. I worked and worked on that machine. The needle bar was stuck. In the end I got a hammer and pried it out. When I went to put it back in I figured out that the needle shafts didn't line up. The needle was binding. That machine, too looked like new. No amount of heat made that one turn. In fact the only time it turned was with the needle bar out of the machine. I have a really nice parts machine that I have a LOT of time and effort into and maybe some colorful language............

What ever is causing it will be teaching you a lot.

Champanier

Well, I don't know enough to make any sophisticated suggestions, so I only have simple ones. Have you checked for thread right up against the motor where the shaft enters it? It can be sneaky there.

If I read this correctly, the motor works fine when the stop motion clamp screw is loosened? If that's the case, this won't help, but if not, have you tried a different foot controller?

I was going to suggest adjusting where the motor connected to loosen the belt, but it sounds like you did that.

I once inadvertantly pushed the pressure adjustment rod all the way in on a 201 and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't sew, but it sounds like you have even reached the trying to sew point, so that's not it.

Sorry, that's all I can offer. Hope you fix it without too much more frustration!

OurWorkbench

That is kind of what I thought that once I was able to get it to move with the heat that there still might be something gumming up and so even tried oiling (at least the top) while it was running. I was hoping that by getting it while it was running that it would spread out the new oil and maybe dislodge old stuff. Especially, since heat only helps in that one location. AND I have oiled other places that aren't in the instructions. I've had it in multiple positions trying to let new oil (Tri-Flow)seep into it.



Right, not the controller or motor problem. I did try a hand wheel, stop motion washer & screw from a different FW as the one that came in it was different (45930 instead of 45716).

Funny side note about pressure on presser bar. There had been some discussion about it leaving it tight or loosening it for storage. I was of the opinion that if you reduced it (especially those 'fun' ones that release when you press the outer collar) it was better. I got a machine and had cleaned and oiled and went to sew with it and it wasn't making a stitch Went back to the drawing board, so to speak, by reading (skimming) the manual and remembered that there wasn't any pressure on the presser foot. After I engaged the presser - it sewed beautifully.

I'm not sure that I really am learning anything, but I keep hoping. I have a working 1951 FW that I keep comparing, looking at different parts and screws on each trying to find a difference. The only differences that I have been able to come up with is the bushings and those differences really aren't visible.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

KenZ

If all of the above does not work, I suspect a thread jam under the bobbin base. This will require removing the gib screw and swinging the gib out. Then the bobbin base can be lifted to cleaned under the base. A very small piece of thread under the base can jam the machine. Use caution with the gib screw it is very small. PM me if this brings up more questions than it answers.

KenZ

oops You already did that.

sewnsewsue

I had a problem with a 301 where the handwheel would not move. I tried all kinds of things including removing the entire bobbin assembly. Nope, no thread. I finally sat it next to another 301 and compared. I found that the needle bar was pushed up in the non working 301. I opened the side and found a screw adjustment on the back of the bar. After I moved it down a little, the handwheel turned easily and the machine ran well. I don't know if this will help you but it's worth a try, I think. Good luck and just keep trying different things. You will learn a lot like so many of us that are still learning too! These machines are SO amazing- they really don't Break!

OurWorkbench

Thank you, the hand wheel will move, although not easily unless heated in one particular place. I have been comparing every place except the needle bar area. I'll have a look in the morning.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

miriam

You need to put that machine on the rotisserie and keep oiling and marinading it... Then do it on end. It may be near where you applied heat but you want to go after the other end as well. Just a little tiny bit of oil gummies can be your problem. Sooner or later some oil will run into what ever is stuck. I've seen all kinds of stuck up places. It sure is fun when they start moving though. One time my DGD, Lovie was oiling a stuck up Singer 99. There was a thread stuck and the machine was full of dried up oil. She oiled and we pulled out that thread and when she cranked it the machine moved. The crazy child gave that machine a big hug. I had to laugh.

OurWorkbench

I compared the needle bar area and both seem to be the same -- I measured with a 6" metal ruler and the clamps and marks are in the same places. It doesn't look as if any of the screws have been messed with. They both look the same when I move the hand wheel and have the take up lever in the same position. Of course, it could still need adjustment but for the time being it is close enough that it shouldn't be what is causing the stiffness.


I have pdfs of both the adjusters manual & service manual but both seem to tell you how to make adjustments and replace parts but not really what the symptoms are to need those adjustments or servicing. Again I found the opposite scenario where it slows down after sewing for a while. It seems to indicate that it is a result of the dissimilar metals having different expansion rates. Heat also helps make grease and oil more fluid. I've tried to approach this with obvious (remove threads) and easy (clean & oil/lube) solutions without messing up something else.


I have oiled and let sit every which way. I thought that by running it once it moved and fresh oil that it would flush any old stuff out. What limited experience I've had that has been the case. I have a 1902 15K that was frozen and it took a couple of days (in black trash bag in sun) before it loosened enough to move the hand wheel and after oiling it well -- it is fine. That is what I thought would happen with this one. I just don't know what to do next.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.