Ok you two, I am going to get some Guardsman too!

Nancy

New (to my home) Singer 66 for $16

Well, not bad for the price. The mechanism seems OK via the hand wheel. Previous owners, or dealer, didn't know how to use the stress relief, and there are some nasty pinches in the cords. Exterior has a few minor rust spots. The underside is clean and oiled. No accessories or spool pin. Can't tell if the blisters/crazing is surface grime or a lacquer. Cabinet has blistered finish which just brushes off. Scuff marks, but vernier in pretty good shape. Will pull power supply off of one of the other machines tomorrow to check the electrical function. For now, I think I need to tend to my dog – still a bit under her anesthesia from a dental cleaning.

Speaking of cleaning – recommendations for surface cleaning of this 66?

newbie pulling up a stool?

I'm 54. When I was bitty, say 4 or 5, mom got a new used machine. When I graduated from high school 1974, they got her a new used machine & the old one was my gift.

I's my only machine & a workhorse. Well, I do have a babylock.

Singer 403 Slantomatic. I have all the bits pcs cams manual, everything. A couple of fancy gadget feet that I never have fiddled with. One is supposed to be a ruffler.

Is that too young for this club? :mrgreen:

That Universal is just adorable.

Hey Quiltmouse, I'm only 40, so I'd say NO WAY are you too young for vintage machines!!!

Same place that had the 66 I just posted has an old White 666 rotary with feet, cams and manual. Wires have all been cut. No plug or foot petal, nor connection to knee leaver. Could probably get it for a song too. Cabinet is solid. Machine doesn't look bad, just don't know if I want to sink any coins into it for electrical rework.

Well, we can--but this made it sound more like your HUSBAND'S girlfriend.

LOL, I meant is my machine too young?

ya'll have infected me! (sorry about the accent, lived in Tx 6 yrs) :mrgreen: ya'll is just such a good word! hee!

I found 3 antique machines on craigslist in the last 2 days, $20 each.

sigh!

quiltmouse, your 403 is a metal machine probably made in the 50s, so it definitely vintage. Billy indicated about 1975 as the cut off timeline when I asked about my 1974 Elna. Miss Elle doesn't know she's vintage, though my other three machines do.

Photo Update 1930 White Rotary: Here is a photo of the cabinet. I think the lamp cord attaches to the missing motor (found replacement on ebay along which a spool pin - thanks Nancy!!). As far as being a cousin to the Grand Rotary, they were not made by the same company. White had several badged machines, a couple surprised me - Minnesota's, Franklin's, and Florence's. I think the Grand Rotary Damascus may have been sold by Montgomery Ward. A very nice highly sought after sewing machine.
Nancy was kind enough to share her vast knowledge and resources with me and I hope to have the SM up and running soon.
If you have extra time check out:
http://community.webshots.com/user/a...ession?start=0

Just read all the threads on wood. First the myth buster-wood is dead so no oil in the wood. It is the moisture content that is critical. Wood should by dried to about 12-15%. This prevents warping and workable into furniture. If the wood was any wetter it would not take a finish. Furniture likes around 30% humidity to be happy and so do people so if you are comfortable so is the furniture and pianos. Guardsmen is a polish like wax and is applied to protect the finish on the wood not the wood. Since most finish are shellac or varnish so some oils like lemon oil old english when applied just sit on top of the finish and it can't get to wood thru the finish anyway. These oil make the finish look good until it evaporates and has to applied again. It is a myth you need to feed the wood with linseed oil this to will not go thru the finish to wood. Wood is dead and does not need feeding anymore. There are oil finish such as teak to keep the wood looking good and tung oil but remember these are finishes just like shellac or varnish. The idea of finished wood is to keep moisture from transfering in and out of the wood which can cause warping and rot. Of course to protect the wood from damages caused by use. I use paste wax once a year on my antiques and dust regularly with a soft cloth to bring back the shine. Also a waxed surface is slick so when objects are moved across the finish it will scratch less. We say the wood looks dry but what we are seeing is the old finish that is worn dull and flaking. So we apply oil and it looks good but this is only temp until it evaporates. We see ugly finish such as sewing machine cabinets, so we strip and under all the old finish is good sound and beautiful wood that only needs a good finish again to bring it back to life. I don't think the original owners fed the wood with oil but a 100+years later after all the old finish is gone the wood is still good. The third myth is wax build up with pledge, pedge has no wax in it to build up it it mostly oil(lemon) and perfumes to make the house smell good. Wax will not build up either because everytime to apply it it takes the old wax off. What we see as wax built up is mostly oil a dust that has collected on the finish when we dust with oil. Or the wax is applied to thickly and not buffed off to a shine. I hope this answers some of you questions without being to windy. I have nothing against polishes such as guardsmen they are to protect the finish and not the wood. So use what you prefer and what you like the looks of I just wanted everyone to know the real story. Just don't use it on unfinished wood thinking you are feeding it, remember wood is dead and needs no food. Please do not be upset with me I am very serious about restoring antique furniture and sometimes get carried away. Glenn