my digital calipers went missing so for now here is the best I can do.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]508896[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]508897[/ATTACH]

umm- what I can "read" isn't accurate enough. Because if the needle hole is 1/16 different, it will cause problems. same with the width of the slide (not the opening). that one can get a bit tricky because of the grove the slide fits into.

It does look like the needle is centered. Those that aren't - its obvious.

However, from what I can see, this does appear to be the same as all the other White machines - until they switched to the Singer measurements (side clamp).

this is the information I wanted to gather - and why my collection contains the variety it does. Just need to tabulate more of the info.

I also want to do measurements of the Johnston style tucker with the coil (bed mount) as the only difference is the coil, - as that is what accounts for the different distances between the bed mount screw and needle bar. It's an important difference if you want your tucker to be square to your feed dogs.

I am so inpressed with you folks who know what to do, to take an old, dirty, sad one and make it beautiful again...how in the world do you even begin to clean it up and restore those decals and all? I am just so amazed about how that can happen............wow.........

well, I start with a soft clean rag and sewing machine oil. You would be amazed at the difference that alone can make.

I usually do not restore decals, although some clever folks here do

Macybaby -
Distance between presser bar and needle shank is .621" .640" to needle shaft
presser bar dia .286"
front slide width 1.16"

For those reading - Please keep in mind that my focus is US made machines of the High Arm style, up to about 1940-1950 (before the flood of Japaneses machines).

Based SteveH's measurements, it is the similar to the other Whites. So far, White is the only machine I've measured with that large of a distance between the needle and presser bar.

Most are .5 or less, with just a few (like Demorest) that are a bit larger (.55).

1st one is a VS 3 to ID 3's take up lever is in the center, The body at the spool pin is round

new queen is a version of a vs 3

dirty rotary, is what it says rotary electric the manual has .......BOOK No. 13 at the top (?)


next two are FR's


the one with two dials is a 77

the last one look like a VS 2 take up lever towards the user and hinged behind the head should have a larger silver plate as a cover....... area at the spool pin shaped like a coffin top. should have a bobbin winder that looks like a mouth harp

this should be the machine those attachments are for, Thats the style mine uses

That last one is a small machine - so those plate hemmers are too long.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ps546be243.jpg

She makes the Singer 28 look big LOL!!

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...psfc754077.jpg

I do believe that is my oldest White - though she was "refurbished" at some point in time and converted to electric.

I will be getting a treadle sewing machine, from my mom & dad soon. I t likes like your 1st sewing machine here the number Singer 66-1. It looks very good. I hope to sew on it, any thing I can do to make it better for sewing.
New belt, oil clean wish you were near Va. but I see your not. I only know a babylock dealer 1 hr. from here.
what advise can you give me before I get to crazy and try to work on it. Stay away from cleaning it and oiling it, etc.
Thank you! sherian I like to look at your notes also sorry to hear about your foot get well quick!

thanks, Steve H, for telling me to use soft cloth and machine oil.....I have been afraid to run it with much of anything as I don't want to hurt any decals that are still there, on any of mine.......