ArchaicArcane

I really think there has been at least 2 sources of it in recent years. That white lube - I've never seen it before. Obviously it exists - and I think it's caused a lot of confusion. This is why I wanted to test the stuff I was still getting to see what it was like as far as the characteristics we needed. I may try to do some more accurate testing in the coming weeks - if I can figure out how.

Mickey2

If the white stuff feel a bit gritty between the fingers, and not like the very smooth greases, I have assumed it's lithium grease.

PhilGrmPa

Love this discussion, wish I had something definitive to add. The range of greases available in the industrial field is mind-boggling. This is only hearsay since I haven't run any tests like Tammi but...Lubriplate 105 is a thin, smooth, cream colored grease available in small tubes; my dad (chem engineer) swore by it. Calcium based, petroleum-derived, 170F rated, good working penetration at 77F, NLGI 0. About $6 for a 50gm tube (except in Canada of course, hehe). A slightly heavier version is 130-AA.
Not modern synthetic stuff by any means but recommended for plain bearings like used in old sewing machine motors (among MANY other things). Our vintage machines and motors aren't modern or synthetic either.

PhilGrmPa

After a bit more research it seems like the cream or white color in several lubes is due to the inclusion of zinc oxide, an anti-wear ingredient. I'm less enthusiastic about that since it probably leaves some residue that could accumulate. May not be the best thing to have in the wicks. I bet it also contributes to the slightly gritty feeling which you've noticed. I'm more curious about Novalube now (re: post #15).

ArchaicArcane

PhilGrmPa - If you are in the US, either Nova or April's products are likely not as prohibitive to try as they are for me. Once I figure in shipping to Canada and then the exchange on top plus undoubtedly duty - and that's even if I COULD get them across the border ... well let's just say I'm not going to be testing them. I'd be interested if someone could let us know what their melting points are. I have a suspicion but this is a public forum and rules and all.

I keep meaning to take a motor in and hit an electric motor shop but quite frankly Dec and Jan have really been the sh*ts for us and it's just slipped my mind repeatedly. Perhaps I'll put a motor in my bag and hope it prompts me the next time I'm out. That should garner a few questions from DH when he sees it sitting there.

ETA: Yeah, anything with zinc oxide in it would be off my list too. Isn't that what you put on your nose on the ski hill to stop it (your nose, not the hill) from burning?

PhilGrmPa

While I'm curious and live near Philly I'm also, shall we say, CHEAP. $10+s/h for 10cc is a non-starter for me, especially since I bet I can find something suitable without 3 YEARS(!?!) of research. I know a few Mech Engineers who'll educate me WHILE they laugh about my newest compulsion. I've got a red&white tube of singer lube that came with the 15-91 I bought for $9 last week. Probably a used up metal tube somewhere too.
See? Why would I forego an entire machine and cabinet in favor of a tube-a-lube?
Altho it WOULD take up less space.

lovelyl

Okay, now I am freaked out. I purchased a tube of Singer lubricant (pink tube) and it was white. Thought the color was strange, but just figured they changed the formula but it was still meant for motors. I used it in my Featherweight motor a few weeks ago. Did I ruin the motor? Do I need to clean it out? Please tell me I didn't ruin my beautiful new baby....

johnm

I did the same experiments a few years ago, albeit no toaster oven. I was more concerned with the ability of the lube to migrate out, at room temperature, from the dab that was placed upon paper. This would be similar to the lube crawling from its reservoir up the felt wick and to the bearing. SM motors are seldom run enough to generate much heat, and the capillary action (wicking) of the lube continues even when the Sm is not being used. Lubriplate white greases and lithium greases are composed of oil that is absorbed by a metallic soap. While they have almost no melting point, the oil will wick away from the grease. My tests found that both Singer motor lube and Vaseline melted at around 115 to 120 deg. F., no other greases tested has so low a melting point...I have never seen a sm motor with bad bearings or a scored motor shaft due to lack of lubrication, but then again, I have only messed with a few hundred of them. What I most often correct is excessive end play of the motor shaft. Most grease reservoirs are found bone dry, yet there is no damage to the motor. Additionally, I have never found motor brushes short enough to need replacing. Johnm

ArchaicArcane

I would clean it out. Assuming that you put it in on top of whatever was there, that should be all that's needed. If you cleaned all of the old grease out you may want to or have someone take the motor apart and clean it internally. I wish they'd label those tubes as not for use with motors if in fact they aren't any longer. I don't have any here to test so I can't really offer any further advice on it.

I have found the same thing about the spread rate. I think my singer lube in the lead tubes is the one that melts at a higher rate - but you're right - I don't know that I've seen any shafts or bearings damaged even with poor or non-existent lubrication. I have however found machines needing brushes changed. One was right down to the spring, one was past and ruined the commutator, another had brushes at about 1/16".

Well, cost was part of my reason for testing too. Partly because that $10 tube of lube would likely end up being about $25cdn once it arrived in my hands. The only reason I've stopped using the old lead tubes is that every time I seem to touch one, the lube bursts out from the wrong end and there's a heck of a mess everywhere. Though, thinking about it more clearly (and not covered in motor lube) - perhaps I could just squeeze what comes out into a syringe....

johnm

[QUOTE=ArchaicArcane;7437718]
I have found the same thing about the spread rate. I think my singer lube in the lead tubes is the one that melts at a higher rate - but you're right - I don't know that I've seen any shafts or bearings damaged even with poor or non-existent lubrication. I have however found machines needing brushes changed. One was right down to the spring, one was past and ruined the commutator, another had brushes at about 1/16".


WOW, now that is using brushes beyond the limit. We should invent a "squeeker" as in disk brakes, to let us know when the brushes are running short, ha, ha. We must not have that much sewing time in Wisconsin, wood to split, lye soap to make, chickens to feed and cows to milk. We might wear out a splitting maul before the motor brushes, ha, ha. I pour melted Vaseline into the disposable vet syringes, and grind the cutting point off of a one inch, #12 hypo needle. I have squeezed the plastic singer tube of lube into grease holes and had the lube puke back out at me from the trapped air in the grease fitting. Plastic syringe works great. Getting cold, gotta put wood in the furnace.
Johnm