What have I done to my Featherweight? Help!!!!
06-12-2012, 05:04 PM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salisbury, North Carolina
Posts: 1,046
No ideas on how to fix it, but just wanted to say how sorry I am to hear what happened. I would be so upset if mine got hurt. It was my first machine given to me in 1959. The only thing that has ever broken on mine was the spool holder which broke in half. Easy fix, I just ordered a new one and it looks as though it has always been there. Glad that yours still works. That is very important.
06-13-2012, 04:29 AM
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: in front of this dang computer instead of my Bernina!(Naples, Florida)
Posts: 1,653
My DH says JB Weld too... scuff the paint off the joint area, rough up the aluminum a bit, apply the JB Weld, and the next day, sand the weld & paint. So sorry your FW has a boo boo, but a little TLC and she'll be good as new. And don't worry about her value, she means everything to you and that's all that counts.
06-13-2012, 07:19 AM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
JB Weld is good, but welding is better. If you want the machine to last like it should you really need to weld it.
Aluminum doesn't require as high of heat to weld as steel. With heat sinc material and protection the effects of the welding on the finish can be localized.
If it were my machine, that's what I'd do.
JMHO
Joe
Aluminum doesn't require as high of heat to weld as steel. With heat sinc material and protection the effects of the welding on the finish can be localized.
If it were my machine, that's what I'd do.
JMHO
Joe
.
06-13-2012, 09:29 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Harrisburg, OR
Posts: 443
JB Weld is good, but welding is better. If you want the machine to last like it should you really need to weld it.
Aluminum doesn't require as high of heat to weld as steel. With heat sinc material and protection the effects of the welding on the finish can be localized.
If it were my machine, that's what I'd do.
JMHO
Joe
Aluminum doesn't require as high of heat to weld as steel. With heat sinc material and protection the effects of the welding on the finish can be localized.
If it were my machine, that's what I'd do.
JMHO
Joe
06-14-2012, 02:56 AM
#18
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,334
Oh, so sad to hear of your FW owie..... but it sounds like a lot of people have some great suggestions. My Viking dropped on the floor face first probably 40 years ago and while it had a little scuffing it still would sew up a storm. I gave that machine to my granddaughter several years ago and she didn't mind the damage either as long as it was sewing a good seam. So, while it stings to see your baby get hurt, its life hasn't been shortened. They are such great machines.
06-14-2012, 06:10 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Any place I can sew
Posts: 434
PLEASE help me!! I have a Singer Featherweight Model 221 Serial# AD545177 that I purchased several years ago. She is my dream machine and was in very, very good condition. To make a long story short, she got knocked off the table that she was sitting on. It broke off part of the cast metal right rear corner. It's the area where the right rear bumper ring is located. I am just sick over it. My husband wants to glue it back on with super glue, but I'm not sure that that is the way to go. Any suggestions on how to repair this? Will the break and repair affect it's value? Someone please tell me I have not ruined my dream machine. I appreciate any help and comments.
P.S. I love the Quilting Board!
P.S. I love the Quilting Board!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
craftybear
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
1159
10-01-2016 11:14 AM
Shelley
Pictures
30
11-17-2012 10:28 AM
tlrnhi
Member Swaps and Round/Row Robins
455
08-19-2009 05:36 PM
