Wires on Singer 15-91
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 13
Wires on Singer 15-91
Hi, guys!!
Does anybody refurbish sewing machines or is an electrician? I am changing the wires in my 15-91 and I read the instructions on sew-classic on how to do it and their tutorial suggests that we preserve the "woven shields" from the wire in the pedal to place in the new wire so it won't overheat.
Well, I tried to remove the shields but they cracked completely and I could not use them. Would you guys have a suggestion on what I could use to replace the shields? That's what I am talking about: http://blog.sew-classic.com/2009/11/...r-control.aspx
Thanks!
Does anybody refurbish sewing machines or is an electrician? I am changing the wires in my 15-91 and I read the instructions on sew-classic on how to do it and their tutorial suggests that we preserve the "woven shields" from the wire in the pedal to place in the new wire so it won't overheat.
Well, I tried to remove the shields but they cracked completely and I could not use them. Would you guys have a suggestion on what I could use to replace the shields? That's what I am talking about: http://blog.sew-classic.com/2009/11/...r-control.aspx
Thanks!
#5
I think you can use heat-shrink wire insulation. Home Depot sells a package that has six or eight different sizes of it and it's very easy to use.
Cut the pieces of insulation to the right length, slide it onto the wire, attach the eyelet or wire end, slide the insulation down to the eyelet/terminal end and aim a blowdryer at the tube of insulation (or hold a lighter under it) long enough to shrink it down snugly to the wire. It only takes a few seconds with the lighter, so be careful.
You can put multiple layers of this stuff on if you need to. I've never done the pedal end, before, but for the ends of the wires inside the pedal, I would use two layers of heat shrink insulation.
There is also a way of creating a knot just inside the opening on the pedal that alleviates strain on those terminal ends. I think Jenny has a sketch of that on her site. :)
Cut the pieces of insulation to the right length, slide it onto the wire, attach the eyelet or wire end, slide the insulation down to the eyelet/terminal end and aim a blowdryer at the tube of insulation (or hold a lighter under it) long enough to shrink it down snugly to the wire. It only takes a few seconds with the lighter, so be careful.
You can put multiple layers of this stuff on if you need to. I've never done the pedal end, before, but for the ends of the wires inside the pedal, I would use two layers of heat shrink insulation.
There is also a way of creating a knot just inside the opening on the pedal that alleviates strain on those terminal ends. I think Jenny has a sketch of that on her site. :)
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 13
Ok. I found the heat shrinks and I placed them in the wires and connected them to the motor. It seems they are in the right position, since I followed the Singer 15-91 motor manual. By the way, I also found the picture of the "knot" thepolyparrot was talking about in the same manual: http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/15-91.pdf
Now I have another wiring question. I need to replace the wire in the motor and I bought it at sew-classic. However, they are not color-coded, but there is one side of the wire with lines on it and the other one plain. Do you guys know which side of the wire goes in the red terminal and which one goes in the black? Is it too complicated to change these?
(I know the responsibility on changing the wires is mine, so if you know electricity, please don't be afraid of giving your opinion)
Thanks!
Now I have another wiring question. I need to replace the wire in the motor and I bought it at sew-classic. However, they are not color-coded, but there is one side of the wire with lines on it and the other one plain. Do you guys know which side of the wire goes in the red terminal and which one goes in the black? Is it too complicated to change these?
(I know the responsibility on changing the wires is mine, so if you know electricity, please don't be afraid of giving your opinion)
Thanks!
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 13
So, just an update... I replaced the wire in the knee pedal (quite easy) and also bought a new light instead of trying to fix only the crackled wire. I tested the machine and both the pedal and the light are working perfectly. Now the only thing left to change is the cord that leads the three pin terminal to the motor. I called a place here that does these services and the guy told me on the phone that it would cost about $ 10 to $ 15 for him to fix only the motor wire, but I still feel like I can do it myself, I'm still just trying to find out how.
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