MAKING A BASEBOARD FOR THE WORK STAND
The Template
The measurements made on your template, if you make one, will be highly specific to the router, the attachment and the cutting blade that you have. In devising a plan, use the principles more than the specific measurements you see here. The distance from my attachment collar to my cutting blade (5/32 inch), should be replaced by measurements specific to your router, attachment and blade.
Below is a picture of the template as initially laid out. I made the picture a bit larger to better show the lines which are a little difficult to see. It can be made from plywood with any thickness from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch. I prefer 3/8 to 1/2 inch thickness for ease in working with it.
(Template Layout)
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A closeup of one corner shows the three lines that are drawn onto the template. The corners are all the same. The inner line represents the outer dimension of the sewing machine bed that will fit into the finished baseboard. A small allowance needs to be added to allow a machine to be inserted and removed smoothly, without getting caught or sticking. I allow 1/16 inch additional in each of the two directions. This is added to the inner of the three sets of lines on the template (A).
The dashed line (B) has the corner curve drawn, the only set of lines that does. It's the only curve that matters. This will be the actual edge of the template, 5/32 inch larger than the finished baseboard line inside it. If the router can follow this line, we will have a cutout that is just right for the sewing machine. The curve drawn will be the visual guide for later shaping of the template corner.
But in order to cut the template line, we need a guide (C) that is 5/32 inch larger still. Instead of using yet another template to make this template, we will find a straight edge and use it on each of the four sides, one by one. The corners will then be finished carefully by hand.
We then have three sets of lines, separated by 5/32 inch, the appropriate distance for my router setup.
(Template Corner)
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Shown below, a straight edged piece of wood will serve as a guide for the first straight cut of the template. It is placed exactly on the outer of the three lines we have marked. Countersunk screws are used, which will allow the router's glide surface to run smoothly over them. Later the holes will be filled. Each corner has a starter hole cut, where the router blade is placed to start each of the four cuts. Stop points are marked at each end of the cut, just before the corner curves. A piece of scrap wood is placed under the back edge of the router to keep the router from tipping.
(Template Cut 1)
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The next picture shows the first cut complete, with the template set up for the second cut, made just like the first. It can be seen that the router was started by pulling it toward the edge guide. The router moves the short distance to one end, then is moved along the edge guide to the other end. The tendency of the router to "walk" may be seen in my effort to pull the router straight toward the edge. It didn't go straight toward the edge, it moved a little to one side. As the blade cuts, it tends to push the router in the opposite direction. This is a matter of simple action and reaction.
(Template Cut 2)
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All four straight edges of the template are cut this way, leaving the center of the board attached only at the corners. I missed taking a picture of the board at this stage. But below the board may be seen after cutting each corner with a jigsaw. Plenty of wood is left which will allow the final shaping of each corner by hand. The first work to shape the corners is done with a slightly rounded rasp.
(Template Rough Corner)
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After the approximate curve is roughed out with the rasp, a finer job of sanding will produce the final shape. I found that a large wrench socket, used first with coarse sandpaper, then with finer sandpaper, works very well, giving a perfect looking corner. Holding the socket and sandpaper, though, takes a little practice. Any other cylindrical object of the right diameter could be used as a sanding form, as well.
(Template Corner Finish)
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The finished template is shown below, with straight edges and smooth corners. To summarize the somewhat confusing matter of the three lines, the edge you see corresponds to the dashed line shown earlier with the curve that was drawn. From it, the router will cut 5/32 inch smaller or inside the edge. This is the exact measurement we want for the baseboard cutout. And, to make this cut in the template, we needed to use a guide 5/32 inch larger or outside the desired template edge.
(Template Done)
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I realize as I'm posting this that I haven't gotten any pictures of the router actually working. There are probably a couple of reasons for this. First, I never thought of it because it would be difficult to see, since the router blade is hidden in the middle of the circular glide surface. The second reason is that it takes both hands to run the router. I'll try to get some pictures of the router in position for cutting.
With the template done, the upcoming step will be to cut the baseboard using the template as a guide. That will be the next post.
John