Sewing Machine Work Stand
10-12-2016, 02:31 PM
#185
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,254
A Box For The Workstand
I've been working on a project that has slowed me down a bit in my posting. I have a couple of days that I'm waiting to hear about something, which gives me a chance to post some recent activities in making a box for the workstand.
You'd think you could buy a box easily and cheaply. Stores that sell boxes singly charge a lot for them, if they even have the size you want. We have a large box manufacturer here in Denver, but you generally have to buy "bundles" of 20 or more. Furthermore, they recently imposed a $100 minimum charge, making it impractical to have to buy several bundles to get one or a few boxes.
So I found a source for plain cardboard and set about learning to make boxes. While I have the workstand in mind, this process would work for other kinds of boxes for anything one might want.
I decided that the dimensions I wanted were 25" x 15" x 12". I found reasonably priced plain cardboard in a 40" x 48" size.
(Plain 40" x 48" Uncut Cardboard)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560177[/ATTACH]
I figured I could make the box out of two halves, getting one half from each sheet. I came up with the following design for cutting out one half from each sheet. Along with it is a piece to line the inside, for a double wall.
(Box Design)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560178[/ATTACH]
The pattern needs to be marked and cut from the cardboard sheet using a good sharp box cutter. A sample of the box half and its liner for a double-wall are shown below.
(Half Cut From Sheet)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560179[/ATTACH]
Next, the cardboard needs to be creased or scored, so as to bend where you want it to. For this I used a roller tool that Janey had, otherwise used to press the little round rubber cord around the edge of a screen door. It's the red handled tool, with a wheel at each end. I use it with a straightedge to gently weaken the cardboard. This usually takes ten to twenty passes with the roller for each bend. One side only, the inner side of the bend.
(Creased For Bending)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560180[/ATTACH]
The box needs to be assembled from the two halves using contact cement. Contact cement is applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry about fifteen minutes. The seemingly dry surfaces bond instantly. I used a heavy bench vice and a toolbox insert to weigh things down in perfect position while the contact cement dries. You only get one chance with contact cement.
(Contact Cement Before)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560181[/ATTACH]
(Contact Cement After)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560182[/ATTACH]
This has to be done for both overlaps. The first one is laid out flat, as shown, and pretty easy. The second one is a little trickier, since you have the box formed back on itself. After both halves are joined and the flaps cemented together, a box is formed. With the bottom flaps folded in and glued, the box is stable
(Box Folded)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560183[/ATTACH]
Using the long strip that was cut along with the box half, a second wall is made to fit inside. The wall is already double where there is the overlap connecting the two halves together. An "L" shaped piece is made to add to the overlap, extending it half way around the box. An additional thickness is added to the floor of the box, as well. Everything is glued together with contact cement. The fifteen minute drying times at each glue joint, or set of joints, makes the box take a little while to build.
(Double Walls Added)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560184[/ATTACH]
(continued in following post)
I've been working on a project that has slowed me down a bit in my posting. I have a couple of days that I'm waiting to hear about something, which gives me a chance to post some recent activities in making a box for the workstand.
You'd think you could buy a box easily and cheaply. Stores that sell boxes singly charge a lot for them, if they even have the size you want. We have a large box manufacturer here in Denver, but you generally have to buy "bundles" of 20 or more. Furthermore, they recently imposed a $100 minimum charge, making it impractical to have to buy several bundles to get one or a few boxes.
So I found a source for plain cardboard and set about learning to make boxes. While I have the workstand in mind, this process would work for other kinds of boxes for anything one might want.
I decided that the dimensions I wanted were 25" x 15" x 12". I found reasonably priced plain cardboard in a 40" x 48" size.
(Plain 40" x 48" Uncut Cardboard)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560177[/ATTACH]
I figured I could make the box out of two halves, getting one half from each sheet. I came up with the following design for cutting out one half from each sheet. Along with it is a piece to line the inside, for a double wall.
(Box Design)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560178[/ATTACH]
The pattern needs to be marked and cut from the cardboard sheet using a good sharp box cutter. A sample of the box half and its liner for a double-wall are shown below.
(Half Cut From Sheet)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560179[/ATTACH]
Next, the cardboard needs to be creased or scored, so as to bend where you want it to. For this I used a roller tool that Janey had, otherwise used to press the little round rubber cord around the edge of a screen door. It's the red handled tool, with a wheel at each end. I use it with a straightedge to gently weaken the cardboard. This usually takes ten to twenty passes with the roller for each bend. One side only, the inner side of the bend.
(Creased For Bending)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560180[/ATTACH]
The box needs to be assembled from the two halves using contact cement. Contact cement is applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry about fifteen minutes. The seemingly dry surfaces bond instantly. I used a heavy bench vice and a toolbox insert to weigh things down in perfect position while the contact cement dries. You only get one chance with contact cement.
(Contact Cement Before)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560181[/ATTACH]
(Contact Cement After)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560182[/ATTACH]
This has to be done for both overlaps. The first one is laid out flat, as shown, and pretty easy. The second one is a little trickier, since you have the box formed back on itself. After both halves are joined and the flaps cemented together, a box is formed. With the bottom flaps folded in and glued, the box is stable
(Box Folded)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560183[/ATTACH]
Using the long strip that was cut along with the box half, a second wall is made to fit inside. The wall is already double where there is the overlap connecting the two halves together. An "L" shaped piece is made to add to the overlap, extending it half way around the box. An additional thickness is added to the floor of the box, as well. Everything is glued together with contact cement. The fifteen minute drying times at each glue joint, or set of joints, makes the box take a little while to build.
(Double Walls Added)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560184[/ATTACH]
(continued in following post)
10-12-2016, 02:53 PM
#186
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,254
(continued)
Box Cutting and Folding Adjustments
The first box I tried worked, but seemed tight and hard to fold. I realized that I hadn't taken the thickness of the cardboard into account. So I tried the process again. With the next box, I did the following after the half sheet was marked and cut.
- Trim an additional eighth inch from both sides of the smaller flaps.
- Trim an additional eighth inch from both sides of the overlap section.
- Crease the fold of the smaller flap an eighth of an inch lower to allow it to fold and layer underneath the longer flaps.
These three things made the box fold together just about perfectly.
Adding Supports To The Box
The metal frame, sitting on its side, needs some kind of support within the box. I thought I'd use styrofoam pads at the corners of the bottom, but the upright posts need something additional. After some puzzling, I came up with these easy cut-and-fold supports made from scraps of cardboard I already have available.
(Frame Upright Supports)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560185[/ATTACH]
(Frame Support Installed)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560186[/ATTACH]
I've improved my styrofoam cutting skills, which started as ragged edges generating a lot of styrofoam specks that stick to everything. The little white specks can drive you nuts!
(Bad Cut)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560187[/ATTACH]
By using short up and down strokes, much like a little saw, my cuts improved and generate very little residue. I've been cutting styrofoam wrong my whole life.
(Better Cut)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560188[/ATTACH]
With corners made from styrofoam pads and the cardboard supports glued in, the box is ready for the swing frame, the central component of the workstand.
(Box Without Frame)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560189[/ATTACH]
(Box With Frame)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560190[/ATTACH]
When disassembled, the wooden base parts will fit easily in the space remaining in the box, along with the baseboards and smaller components.
I'm pleased with the box for the workstand. It's way better than the single walled box I would have bought pre-made. And I've learned a great deal about working with cardboard and styrofoam.
More soon,
John
Box Cutting and Folding Adjustments
The first box I tried worked, but seemed tight and hard to fold. I realized that I hadn't taken the thickness of the cardboard into account. So I tried the process again. With the next box, I did the following after the half sheet was marked and cut.
- Trim an additional eighth inch from both sides of the smaller flaps.
- Trim an additional eighth inch from both sides of the overlap section.
- Crease the fold of the smaller flap an eighth of an inch lower to allow it to fold and layer underneath the longer flaps.
These three things made the box fold together just about perfectly.
Adding Supports To The Box
The metal frame, sitting on its side, needs some kind of support within the box. I thought I'd use styrofoam pads at the corners of the bottom, but the upright posts need something additional. After some puzzling, I came up with these easy cut-and-fold supports made from scraps of cardboard I already have available.
(Frame Upright Supports)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560185[/ATTACH]
(Frame Support Installed)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560186[/ATTACH]
I've improved my styrofoam cutting skills, which started as ragged edges generating a lot of styrofoam specks that stick to everything. The little white specks can drive you nuts!
(Bad Cut)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560187[/ATTACH]
By using short up and down strokes, much like a little saw, my cuts improved and generate very little residue. I've been cutting styrofoam wrong my whole life.
(Better Cut)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560188[/ATTACH]
With corners made from styrofoam pads and the cardboard supports glued in, the box is ready for the swing frame, the central component of the workstand.
(Box Without Frame)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560189[/ATTACH]
(Box With Frame)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560190[/ATTACH]
When disassembled, the wooden base parts will fit easily in the space remaining in the box, along with the baseboards and smaller components.
I'm pleased with the box for the workstand. It's way better than the single walled box I would have bought pre-made. And I've learned a great deal about working with cardboard and styrofoam.
More soon,
John
10-25-2016, 04:56 AM
#188
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,254
Returning from my brief adventure in cardboard, there are a few odds and ends I can post, things I've been trying to refine and improve.
The original workstand had a lock pin with a blunt end. I tried to help this by beveling the holes in the disc. The second generation workstand has a lock pin that is bullet shaped on the end which helps the pin find the stop.
(Bullet Shaped Pin & Disc)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560997[/ATTACH]
Disassembling A Sticky Pivot Shaft
I've been experimenting with a brass collar that goes over one of the pivot shaft bolts of the swing frame. The collar fills a slight gap between the inside of the pipe and the bolt. The left side of the swing frame, which has the locking mechanism, is the only side where this is an issue. It affects how the holes in the disc line up with the lock pin.
(Space Between Bolt and Pipe)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560998[/ATTACH]
A page or two back, I thought I had the problem solved, but it still needs a little more thickness. What I chose to do was to add solder to only one edge of the brass collar, as shown.
(Solder Added To Brass Collar)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560999[/ATTACH]
Solder is very soft and the idea is that the solder molds itself around the bolt, keeping the bolt centered within the pipe as it is tightened. Ultimately the weight of the frame is carried through the end of the pipe, tightly squeezed against a large washer. This is much like curtain rods that provide vertical support by applying horizontal pressure against two opposing walls. The solder only holds it in place while being tightened down.
The idea works, eliminating the space and resulting in a well-centered pivot shaft. Even with a slightly oval internal pipe shape it works.
But... the solder can make it a little tricky if you want to disassemble it. One of three things will happen.
The collar may come out easily, as intended. This is ideal.
(Collar Comes Out)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]561000[/ATTACH]
The collar may stick in the pipe. If this happens, I would leave it there. If the bolt will pass through it, it can simply stay in the pipe.
(Collar Stays In Pipe)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]561001[/ATTACH]
The brass collar may cause the bolt to bind up, making it more difficult to remove. One might try a wrench on the bolt head, turning it back and forth while holding the pipe to work the bolt out. If the bolt sticks on the threaded area, turning the bolt to unscrew it may help. If still further encouragement is needed, it may be gently tapped out.
TIP: Place an end wrench between the pipe and the large washers to give the brass collar a space to come out. Use something blunt, such as a bolt, that will distribute the force, to tap it out of the pipe. Don't use a screwdriver that could damage the end of the bolt or threads because of being too sharp.
(Collar and Bolt Binding Up)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]561002[/ATTACH]
Pulling The Pin
TIP: At any position that the machine is stopped, there will be a slight pull against the lock pin. Depending on the position, it will pull one direction or the other. This tends to wedge the pin in the hole. If you can gently rock the frame back and forth to determine the direction, relieving the stress on the pin, the pin will pull out much more easily.
Running Out of Things To Post
With several baseboards, the second generation workstand has gained many refinements. The little brass collar, I think was the last "bug". I'll post new things as they come up. Other people, please feel free to jump in here, if you like.
John
The original workstand had a lock pin with a blunt end. I tried to help this by beveling the holes in the disc. The second generation workstand has a lock pin that is bullet shaped on the end which helps the pin find the stop.
(Bullet Shaped Pin & Disc)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560997[/ATTACH]
Disassembling A Sticky Pivot Shaft
I've been experimenting with a brass collar that goes over one of the pivot shaft bolts of the swing frame. The collar fills a slight gap between the inside of the pipe and the bolt. The left side of the swing frame, which has the locking mechanism, is the only side where this is an issue. It affects how the holes in the disc line up with the lock pin.
(Space Between Bolt and Pipe)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560998[/ATTACH]
A page or two back, I thought I had the problem solved, but it still needs a little more thickness. What I chose to do was to add solder to only one edge of the brass collar, as shown.
(Solder Added To Brass Collar)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]560999[/ATTACH]
Solder is very soft and the idea is that the solder molds itself around the bolt, keeping the bolt centered within the pipe as it is tightened. Ultimately the weight of the frame is carried through the end of the pipe, tightly squeezed against a large washer. This is much like curtain rods that provide vertical support by applying horizontal pressure against two opposing walls. The solder only holds it in place while being tightened down.
The idea works, eliminating the space and resulting in a well-centered pivot shaft. Even with a slightly oval internal pipe shape it works.
But... the solder can make it a little tricky if you want to disassemble it. One of three things will happen.
The collar may come out easily, as intended. This is ideal.
(Collar Comes Out)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]561000[/ATTACH]
The collar may stick in the pipe. If this happens, I would leave it there. If the bolt will pass through it, it can simply stay in the pipe.
(Collar Stays In Pipe)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]561001[/ATTACH]
The brass collar may cause the bolt to bind up, making it more difficult to remove. One might try a wrench on the bolt head, turning it back and forth while holding the pipe to work the bolt out. If the bolt sticks on the threaded area, turning the bolt to unscrew it may help. If still further encouragement is needed, it may be gently tapped out.
TIP: Place an end wrench between the pipe and the large washers to give the brass collar a space to come out. Use something blunt, such as a bolt, that will distribute the force, to tap it out of the pipe. Don't use a screwdriver that could damage the end of the bolt or threads because of being too sharp.
(Collar and Bolt Binding Up)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]561002[/ATTACH]
Pulling The Pin
TIP: At any position that the machine is stopped, there will be a slight pull against the lock pin. Depending on the position, it will pull one direction or the other. This tends to wedge the pin in the hole. If you can gently rock the frame back and forth to determine the direction, relieving the stress on the pin, the pin will pull out much more easily.
Running Out of Things To Post
With several baseboards, the second generation workstand has gained many refinements. The little brass collar, I think was the last "bug". I'll post new things as they come up. Other people, please feel free to jump in here, if you like.
John
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