Returning from my brief adventure in cardboard, there are a few odds and ends I can post, things I've been trying to refine and improve.
The original workstand had a lock pin with a blunt end. I tried to help this by beveling the holes in the disc. The second generation workstand has a lock pin that is bullet shaped on the end which helps the pin find the stop.
(Bullet Shaped Pin & Disc)
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Disassembling A Sticky Pivot Shaft
I've been experimenting with a brass collar that goes over one of the pivot shaft bolts of the swing frame. The collar fills a slight gap between the inside of the pipe and the bolt. The left side of the swing frame, which has the locking mechanism, is the only side where this is an issue. It affects how the holes in the disc line up with the lock pin.
(Space Between Bolt and Pipe)
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A page or two back, I thought I had the problem solved, but it still needs a little more thickness. What I chose to do was to add solder to only one edge of the brass collar, as shown.
(Solder Added To Brass Collar)
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Solder is very soft and the idea is that the solder molds itself around the bolt, keeping the bolt centered within the pipe as it is tightened. Ultimately the weight of the frame is carried through the end of the pipe, tightly squeezed against a large washer. This is much like curtain rods that provide vertical support by applying horizontal pressure against two opposing walls. The solder only holds it in place while being tightened down.
The idea works, eliminating the space and resulting in a well-centered pivot shaft. Even with a slightly oval internal pipe shape it works.
But... the solder can make it a little tricky if you want to disassemble it. One of three things will happen.
The collar may come out easily, as intended. This is ideal.
(Collar Comes Out)
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The collar may stick in the pipe. If this happens, I would leave it there. If the bolt will pass through it, it can simply stay in the pipe.
(Collar Stays In Pipe)
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The brass collar may cause the bolt to bind up, making it more difficult to remove. One might try a wrench on the bolt head, turning it back and forth while holding the pipe to work the bolt out. If the bolt sticks on the threaded area, turning the bolt to unscrew it may help. If still further encouragement is needed, it may be gently tapped out.
TIP: Place an end wrench between the pipe and the large washers to give the brass collar a space to come out. Use something blunt, such as a bolt, that will distribute the force, to tap it out of the pipe. Don't use a screwdriver that could damage the end of the bolt or threads because of being too sharp.
(Collar and Bolt Binding Up)
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Pulling The Pin
TIP: At any position that the machine is stopped, there will be a slight pull against the lock pin. Depending on the position, it will pull one direction or the other. This tends to wedge the pin in the hole. If you can gently rock the frame back and forth to determine the direction, relieving the stress on the pin, the pin will pull out much more easily.
Running Out of Things To Post
With several baseboards, the second generation workstand has gained many refinements. The little brass collar, I think was the last "bug". I'll post new things as they come up. Other people, please feel free to jump in here, if you like.
John