MAKING A BASEBOARD FOR THE WORK STAND
Making The Baseboard (...continued)
Below I've shown my setup for the template and the router. A loose board the same thickness as the template allows a gap, seen to the left of the template, that the router can sit safely on when not being used. It also provides a way to easily measure and adjust the depth of the cut and lock the blade into the desired depth position.
(Baseboard Router Setup)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522572[/ATTACH]
The depth of cut may be tested by carefully (very carefully) sliding a block of wood underneath the loose board to the side of the template and into the blade. Sliding the block along the underside of the loose board will put the test block in the same position as the baseboard, relative to the blade. This is because the loose board to the side is the same thickness as the template. Adjust and repeat as necessary to get the depth you want. Below is the result of how I set the blade for this operation, a 5/32 inch deep cut.
(Baseboard Cut Depth)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522573[/ATTACH]
I want a wider cut than one blade width allows, so I start by routing a little further inside the edge in a first pass. The result of this freehand operation and the slight unsteadiness may be seen below. I like to get a cut from the two passes that is about 1/2 inch wide total.
The loose scrap board in the center of the template keeps the back of the router steady. It moves around easily as cutting progresses, always leaving a gap as the router moves around the template.
(Baseboard First Pass)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522574[/ATTACH]
This shows just some of the sawdust left behind after cutting. There's an interesting phenomenon. When cutting all the way through a piece of wood, a router can allow the sawdust to escape below and behind the cut being made. But, when cutting just part way through a piece of wood, the material has nowhere to go but up. So you might be prepared for a mini-snowstorm of sawdust.
(Baseboard Dust)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522576[/ATTACH]
If anything is wrong with the router or the blade, it can be dealt with better on the first, or inside pass. The second pass completes the routing process. This is the outside edge that shows. The second pass has been completed. The router is set safely to the side.
(Baseboard Second Pass)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522578[/ATTACH]
The start point may be seen below. The first pass, I tipped the router up on its edge a little, turned it on and pushed the blade into the wood at the place you can see in the picture. The second pass, I didn't have to tip the router. I just placed the blade in the previous spot before turning it on.
(Baseboard Start Point)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522580[/ATTACH]
I was working hard to get this done and before I knew it I had made the inner cut with a jigsaw and forgot to take pictures. But it is easier to describe than the routing process.
Each side of the cutout should have a step of between 1/4 and 1/2 inch, depending on the machine. Additional allowances must be made for the hinge bosses and any other protrusions of the machine. I think it's best to keep the biggest step possible, making notches where needed.
This baseboard is one I'm experimenting with to hold Singers and similar, either with or without the treadle belt plate. The cutout is 7 inches by 16 5/8 inches, plus a slight allowance for fit. The step is 1/4 inch on all sides except the right, which is 1/2 inch. I anticipate needing to work on the right side, but don't know how much yet. If I eliminated the right hand step, it could accommodate a Necchi Supernova, for example, which has no edge at all on the right. But I'd lose the step as support. Just one of the trade-off decisions in trying to make it as universal as possible.
NOTE: I have not maximized the size of the stepped edges here, making them only 1/4 inch on three sides. Because I am experimenting, I want to try the greatest number of machines possible without a lot of effort. Once I can get machines into the stand, I can easily turn them upside down and see how much room there is on each side. I should know a lot more shortly, with the help of this very baseboard. I'll probably remake the baseboard based on what I discover with a variety of machines.
(Baseboard Cutout)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522581[/ATTACH]
A close up of one corner shows the sharp edge and step. The step and the inside edge surface still need a lot of finish work. I'll wait until I've done more machine tests. Better wood, that I mentioned earlier, has less splintering and chipping from the router cuts.
(Baseboard Corner Close Up)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522582[/ATTACH]
I'm still not finished with the baseboard. My intention is to try it with a variety of machines to make it as universal as possible. It needs to be tested with a variety of machines and a final best inner contour may need additional adjustments. I'll wait to finish sanding and painting until that is done. But I think that this is far enough along for you to see the process and the result.
While I used a hand jigsaw this time, when the inner contour is defined, I will make a template for doing this with a router which will make a much smoother cut. And it will be faster.
To finish the baseboard, I will fill and sand the stepped edges, the screw holes and any other blemishes. Then I'll paint it, after which I'll put felt around the edge to make a nice surface for a machine to sit on.
I hope this has been an understandable overview of baseboard fabrication. If I've missed anything or if someone wants more detail, I'll provide it if I can. Comments or questions are welcome.
I'll probably turn next to the support base and locking mechanisms.
John