Great discussion! The feel test is the key. I was told years ago that "anybody can get fabric printed as long as the run meets the factory's minimum." Seems like the minimum was 2000 yards. The "gray goods," the quality of the fabric that is printed on is where we get into Walmart/JoAnns vs LQS quality fabrics. While in Sacramento in the late 90's Beverly's had zillions of Thimbleberries prints on flannel. The print was on the wrong side of the flannel (less fluffy side) and these were prints that were never released by Thimbleberries in flannel. I buy what I like, fabrics that pass the feel test and give the impression they will hold up. If I am making an "heirloom" I test any suspicious fabric a number of ways: Rub it while both wet and dry with a white cloth to see if color comes off; place a swatch in the car window to see if it fades; press a measured swatch to see if it shrinks unreasonably; wash and dry a measured swatch to see if it shrinks unreasonably and rub it against itself to see if it pills or sheds. The majority of my quilting is for charity and we receive generous donations of all kinds. Where possible we try to honor the gift by using it, if it doesn't pass our muster we try to donate it on where it can be used for crafts instead.