Iceblossom

Oh dear! I was almost done with my post and the power flickered on/off enough to lose my post. I haven't started yet because my contractor was still working on the closets I am having built in the sewing room.

GailGL -- I am so sorry you are having problems. I rarely use specialty rulers so I can't give you any direct info, except that the reason I don't use them is because (depending on the ruler) the markings aren't in standard inches but rather where to cut or finished sizes for particular dimensions -- so you may be right on the nose! Likewise, positioning the side triangles can be awkward/have a learning curve because of how they form the top seam allowance.

I do (sadly) have to again say that we shouldn't use actual numbers. I know the dimensions you stated are what Bonnie put down for this step but I'm going to have to sort of talk around the numbers.

These shapes can be difficult to put together correctly, one reason is how the sides form the seam allowance, especially the top, Like Macybaby I will be cutting the red triangles according to the dimensions but I will be making the neutral triangles large and trimming down my subunits.

So look again at the pictures on Page 3 of the PDF. Notice that the tops of the (center) triangles are snubbed and not pointy. When you put your rulers on your cut pieces, do they look the same? Notice that the neutral triangles are double snubbed! Once across the top and once along the side to show how they fit correctly. If you don't do that extra little snub it is much harder to correctly place.

Do you have the ability to print the PDF or at least the last page(s) where the paper piecing templates and actual sized pieces are shown? You can lay your pieces on top to see if they fit correctly (remember that the paper piecing doesn't show seam allowances). If you have graph paper you can draw out the finished size -- you can use the unfinished size but make sure you mark your center from the finished size and not the top of the block. Simply mark your center and draw the lines from there. With no graph paper you can cut out a corner of a piece of paper (again I would use finished size or make allowances for the seam line), fold it in half and simply draw from the center to the opposing corners. Because those are on the diagonal, they can run right off the edges into the seam allowance unlike the top.

Hope you can figure out what is going on. I'm going to guess it is more a positioning and seam accuracy thing than a wrong cut but it can can be either/both!!