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70, 80 or 100wt thread?

70, 80 or 100wt thread?

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Old 02-16-2017, 02:02 PM
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Default 70, 80 or 100wt thread?

Has anyone used 70 or 80 or 100wt thread when piecing? The Red Rock Threads website has multiple weights and I was wondering what is the best weight to use when piecing? My thoughts are that the finer the thread, the more accurate the finished block. Am I correct? Also, what size needle would you use with the finer threads? Thanks.
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Old 02-16-2017, 02:30 PM
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I like Aurifil 50wt cotton thread for piecing. Presencia is supposed to be fabulous for piecing also. I would be leery of using 70/80/100wt thread for piecing for a couple of reasons. The most obvious is that such fine thread may not be strong enough for piecing. Also, wt is not the only vital attribute of thread; you need to consider such things as fiber content and manufacturing process as well.

I have some 100wt silk thread which I know some quilters use for very fine and detailed quilting; it would not work at all well for, say, quilting lines 6" apart on a quilt as the stress would be too much for the thread. With quilting lines 1/4" apart, it works great. Piecing requires a stronger thread, especially if a quilt might not be very closely quilted, as there will be stress on the seams when the quilt is washed, when someone sits on it, etc.

Fiber content of piecing thread is important to me too. I absolutely love polyester thread for quilting (I use Glide a lot) because it adds a bit of shine and sparkle to my quilting, plus it is strong and can handle high speed sewing. It works well for embroidery machines too. I tried polyester thread for piecing and found I don't like it as well as cotton. For one thing, it is slippery compared to cotton. When chain piecing, if I don't leave extra space between pieces using polyester thread, the thread has a tendency to slip out of the fabrics ends after I cut it. I have read that polyester thread works better for piecing if it is used only in top or bobbin, with the other thread being cotton. This is because cotton "grabs" the polyester so you don't have as much of a slippy problem with it. However, I found that using cotton thread in both top and bobbin gives me the easiest and best results because I never get the thread slipping out at the ends no matter how closely I cut it.

As I mentioned, I like Aurifil 50wt cotton thread for piecing. I like using a size 75 or 80 needle with this thread. I like the smaller size 70 needle for machine applique, but I like a slightly stronger needle for piecing because I am going much faster and do not want to inadvertently bend (and break) the needle while going at breakneck speed.

If you were to use the finest needle (size 70) and finest thread (size 100wt) for piecing, I think you would want to piece more slowly just to make sure that the needle doesn't get bent out of shape. I hate having a needle break in the machine as, not only could a broken piece fly into my face, it can take a sewing machine out of time so it needs repair.

Last edited by Prism99; 02-16-2017 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 02-16-2017, 04:03 PM
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I use 100 weight silk thread for English paper piecing, it is strong and wonderful to work with. For machine piecing I use aurifil 50 weight.
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:35 PM
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I use 50 weight for most everything.
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:29 PM
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I like the 50 weight. My girlfriend uses the 80 & 100 for applique. She pieces with 50 weight.
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:49 PM
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Thank you Prism99, you have answered many of the questions I had. You are a wealth of information.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:20 AM
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I have used 80wt decobob for piecing, it is very strong and thin. Wonderful for piecing
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Old 02-18-2017, 06:01 AM
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I use 100 weight for stitching in the ditch- it really works good and does not show when the stitches land outside the ditch.
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Old 02-18-2017, 06:12 AM
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When the block has a lot of pieces I use 70wt or higher wt thread top and bobbin. Usually a 70 needle. I use 50 wt if the block is a nine patch or less. Always 70 or higher thread in the bobbin for me. Determining the correct thread and needle size is very important for accurate piecing. Many think any thread will work and it usually does but then the block size is off, the seams are bulky, and all around a mess.
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:27 AM
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I always use 50 wt. thread. I am sometimes alarmed by those who profess going at "breakneck " speed. I have two very large fabric grocery bags and I have to watch new baggers who think that just the bag is large they must fill them to the top. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. I would be afraid that a needle would break and a piece of metal fly in my eye. Why can't we enjoy the journey and not be in a race to the finish? (IMHO).
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