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    Old 02-24-2018, 05:48 AM
      #11  
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    I love it Have made several "wave" quilts, (http://www.allpeoplequilt.com/quilt-...s/making-waves) with each piece curved at top and bottom...didn't use a single pin on any of the columns (it's sewn in columns)...but I did have to use pins when putting the columns together.... Certainly saved me lots of time!
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    Old 02-24-2018, 06:45 AM
      #12  
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    I have one and like it - no pins and accurate. You just have to practice with it a bit
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    Old 02-24-2018, 07:11 AM
      #13  
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    it's one of those specialty items that you will either really love or really not.
    they work very well for some. i gave mine away.

    the only way to find whether or not it's useful to you is to actually use it.
    unless you know somebody who has one you can try, that will mean gambling the $$$ to buy one.

    luckily they are not as expensive now as they used to be.
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    Old 02-24-2018, 07:34 AM
      #14  
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    i bought one years ago when my 14yo DD wanted to make a winding ways quilt. She did great without it. Me? I honestly did not do any better with it than without, even allowing for a learning curve.
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    Old 02-24-2018, 10:48 AM
      #15  
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    I think you will find my answer interesting.

    I purchased one years ago and never mastered it, no matter how many times the inventor demonstrated to me or how many times I watched the videos. Finally gave up and packed it away.

    Fast forward a couple of years, I'm sewing drunkard's path curves and realize that if I lift and hold my top piece up and use the right amount of tension on the fabrics, I can sew very accurate curves without pinning! Thought about the Curve Master foot, went back and watched the videos again, and realized that it's more about the technique than the foot. I was not using the Curve Master foot, I was using my basic, standard foot. So then I tried the technique on some orange peel blocks and it worked.
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    Old 02-24-2018, 11:35 AM
      #16  
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    I bought one awhile back, altho I had been doing curves with no prob before, but I thought maybe this would be a help. Well, it did help, but I find when doing curves you cannot be in a hurry, sometimes two,stitches at a time, stop to make sure all is in position, no stretching on your part, the feed dogs and top pressure should move things evenly, even though at times it looks like it's not...as the pieces reach the needle they straighten out. I do find using tweezers to keep tail end in the right position does work......I watched a video-don't know name- where the person crossed her hands to guide the pieces...that works too...and frown on bottom, smile on top........Never say never, just let it be a challenge and you are smarter than a machine and two pieces of fabric!

    what Peckish wrote is spot on!

    Last edited by Geri B; 02-24-2018 at 11:37 AM.
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    Old 02-24-2018, 11:44 AM
      #17  
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    I tried a number of techniques for curved seams on the DWR quilt I made. What worked best for me was to use a washable glue stick to glue the seams together before I sewed, so no pins. I then was able to sew the 1/4" seams as easily together as if they were straight seams. I could use chain stitching, and it was amazing.
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    Old 02-25-2018, 07:32 AM
      #18  
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    I'm clueless, what is so unique about the curve master foot?
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    Old 02-25-2018, 09:01 AM
      #19  
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    Originally Posted by maminstl
    I have one and like it - no pins and accurate. You just have to practice with it a bit
    I spent an afternoon learning to use it. The next day I cut pieces for a queen-sized Drunkard’s Path, and the following afternoon got all the blocks sewn. Fastest block ever, so much so that it became my go-to for quick baby quilts.
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    Old 02-25-2018, 12:47 PM
      #20  
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    Originally Posted by judykay
    I'm clueless, what is so unique about the curve master foot?
    the foot is "snub-nosed" so it doesn't get as much in the way as you go around curves.
    it's easier to see where you are and where you're going.
    it's easier to lift the top piece "that little bit" so it lays down in the right place without stretching out of shape.

    if you can master it, that is.
    which i couldn't.

    i have always suspected that if the foot had been made as a metal snap-on it would work a lot better for everybody.
    there are a bazillion adapters in the package for machine shanks, and the foot snaps onto one of those. everything is plastic.
    i could never find a combination of adapter plus foot that wasn't wobbly.
    at least that's the excuse i cling to for having never gotten the hang of it.
    (that's my story, Officer, and i'm stickin' to it.) lol lol lol
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