Rhonda K

A couple of previous posters mentioned that they cut wider bindings for their quilts. There were different measurements from 3-6 inches wide.

Do you leave extra batting/backing to account for the wider bindings? What about block points along the edge?

I'm trying to figure out how a wider binding is done on quilts. I would like to try one in the future.

Thanks for any help or hints.

bearisgray

Here is a link to a quilt I made where the binding finishes at 7/16 inch wide.

I just make a wider seam when I attach it to the quilt.

Jungle Animals Baby Quilt

Also - when sewing a wider binding to the quilt - look at this tutorial -

Stop Stitching Here - - -

I trim the batting even with the quilt - I also sew the top, bottom, and batting together - and I baste the binding edges together - it's extra sewing, but when putting the binding on, i feel like I'm only dealing with two edges instead of five.

If I had points along the edge, I would cut the batting and backing so that there would be enough batting to accommodate the binding.

wesing

We have only used wide binding twice. The first was store bought and already folded and pressed, so we had a pattern to make our own the next time. You might check at Joann or Wal-Mart or HL and see if you can buy one to use as your example.

I think when we made the binding it started at 3" and finished at almost 1". We folded it WST so that about 1/8" of the bottom was visible and pressed. Then we opened it up and folded both raw edges almost to the center and pressed them. When we put it on the quilt, we put the "shorter" side on first and sewed on the fold, mitered as normal, then stitched down the other side. We love the look of the wide binding. I don't know why we never think to try it again.

QuiltE

RhondaK ... the best way to figure this out is to take the idea and make something small, just to try it out. Each time I do it, I use a scrap piece of fabric, just to check what width I want before I go to the "real" fabric, as it takes a lot ... and if you miscut, you can't glue them back together!

Some notes for you ...
Your seam line/allowance is whatever you want your finished binding to be.
Thus, you need to have it trimmed to allow for that.
For sure, there should be batting and backing out to the edge.

Sometimes, I have top fabric right to the edge.
Other times, there will only be the 1/4" and then the batting beyond. That would be in the case where I have star points that I don't want lopped off!

That also works when I have something narrow, but want it to be wider. An example would be this runner. It was very shy on width, as I was working with a narrow 11-1/2" strip of leftover fabric from another project. By doing it this way, I got a runner that is 13" wide that works perfectly for a small end table. The binding finishes at one inch.

Otherwise, just stitch your binding on the same as you would for a regular binding ... with the wider seam allowance and binding the full width of that
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Rhonda K

Thank you Everyone for the wonderful links and pictures of your projects. I just couldn't figure it all out. I am planning on some smaller wall hangings and will try some of these methods for finishing them.

It's time to step out and do something different. I appreciate your help!

QuiltE

You're Welcome!
I'll look forward to seeing what you create.


I didn't mention it before ... on a smaller piece, it's a great way to get a border and binding on, all in one step.

Jingle

I always cut my bindings at 2-1/2". Sew a 1/4" seam to attach it to the quilt. It goes on perfectly and I like it.

PaperPrincess

OK, I cheat when I want a wide binding... I add a final narrow border the same color as my binding, then use my usual 2.25" binding. I've tried to do wide bindings before and couldn't get them filled quite right, so I use this method.