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Thread: Does redwork need some backing on the squares?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Helen6869's Avatar
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    Question Does redwork need some backing on the squares?

    I made 9 redwork squares a number of years ago for a baby quilt or wallhanging. Since it was the first quilt I tried to make and I had no idea what I was doing except embroidering the patterns onto the square, I did the redwork on a soft, thin white cotton batiste. They turned out very nice but now I want to put the quilt together and am wondering if I should put an iron-on backing or interfacing to strengthen them for quilting. The cotton is pretty thin. Any of you who have done some of this, I would really appreciate your input. Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    I use a really good quality or white on white fabric for my Redwork with no backing. Some people iron a lightweight interfacing to their squares or double up on the fabric.

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    I have done this. I embroidered Santa figures on muslin and alternated them with star blocks in a Christmas quilt. I, too, felt the embroidered blocks were a little thin. I used the thin, fusible, non-woven interfacing on the back of each square. It worked great! The blocks were not stiff, and easily went into the quilt. My next issue was how to quilt them, as I didn't want to quilt over the embroidered stitches. I ended up using a thin, off-white thread to machine quilt around each Santa scene. Hope this helps!
    psumom

  4. #4
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    I good iron on interfacing is Pellon SF 101. It is carried by Hancocks and at some quilt shops. It fuses nicely and stays supple. It can also be fused to the fabric before you start your embroidery.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Helen6869's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tartan View Post
    I use a really good quality or white on white fabric for my Redwork with no backing. Some people iron a lightweight interfacing to their squares or double up on the fabric.
    I think this is the best solution and when I do more redwork I will definitely back it first.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Helen6869's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nammie to 7 View Post
    I good iron on interfacing is Pellon SF 101. It is carried by Hancocks and at some quilt shops. It fuses nicely and stays supple. It can also be fused to the fabric before you start your embroidery.
    Thanks for this info. I didn't know what to get so this will be really helpful. Glad Hancock's has it as that is the only fabric store I can get to besides Hobby Lobby. Thanks again!

  7. #7
    Senior Member Helen6869's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by psumom View Post
    I have done this. I embroidered Santa figures on muslin and alternated them with star blocks in a Christmas quilt. I, too, felt the embroidered blocks were a little thin. I used the thin, fusible, non-woven interfacing on the back of each square. It worked great! The blocks were not stiff, and easily went into the quilt. My next issue was how to quilt them, as I didn't want to quilt over the embroidered stitches. I ended up using a thin, off-white thread to machine quilt around each Santa scene. Hope this helps!
    Would this be like tricot iron on interfacing used for garments? I have some of that. Do you think this will be strong enough? Thanks! ps This sounds like a beautiful quilt! Did you post a picture of it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tartan View Post
    I use a really good quality or white on white fabric for my Redwork with no backing. Some people iron a lightweight interfacing to their squares or double up on the fabric.
    Me too! I always seem to have some laying around in the stash that needs a home. lol

  9. #9
    Senior Member Donnamarie's Avatar
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    I know its too late now but when I do embroidery I always start with my fabric and a thin white flannel under the fabric. It works up nicely and hides the threads when moving from one section to another. Try it next time, I think you will like it.

  10. #10
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    I have some redwork I got at an estate. The material that the embroidery is very thin. hope no one minds but have added this info to my favorites.

  11. #11
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    If you are using a lightweight fabric for your block you might want to use a second layer of fabric so that your knots and ends do not show through the top of your block. Otherwise I see no real purpose for a second layer.

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