Got my Redeye Treadle
01-11-2010, 03:24 PM
#11
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bikini Bottom
Posts: 5,652
It looks like you have a nice machine indeed, but you will need to be extra careful about cleaning it because of the deteriorating finish. I can tell you how to hide it but if you are going to use it frequently then you need to spray an automotive clear coat over it.
I will show you mine before and after to give you an idea as to what you are shooting for, and my finish was deteriorated but not quite as bad. There are little tricks to making one look like a new penny without having to jump through hoops but this is a long drawn out process and took me around 2 weeks to get it looking this way. but here are a few pics.
Billy
I will show you mine before and after to give you an idea as to what you are shooting for, and my finish was deteriorated but not quite as bad. There are little tricks to making one look like a new penny without having to jump through hoops but this is a long drawn out process and took me around 2 weeks to get it looking this way. but here are a few pics.
Billy
01-11-2010, 04:16 PM
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,981
Many singer restoration sites said to use a soft cloth and baby oil, which I did on an old Featherweight I bought. I now looks brand new. I could not believe the dirt that came off with the baby oil.
01-11-2010, 04:24 PM
#14
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bikini Bottom
Posts: 5,652
In case you want to know the sub model its a 66-1 with the back clamp feet. The idea of the backclamp foot came from Wheeler and Wilson when Singer bought them out and they used it on the 66-1 and the 66-3.
How to clean the machine its not hard it will just take some time. First thing you need to do is pull the machine out of the treadle buy undoing the screws on the hinges. Then find you something to sit the rascal on so you can start pulling it apart to clean it up. You really need to clean all of the workings first before thinking about the outside. It just makes for a better running machine and a better sewing experience.
Pull all of the plates off like the Faceplate, rear Inspection plate, Needleplate and the Bobbin plate. Now you need to pull the Tension assembly out which is really easy and take all of the parts apart to be able to clean and soak them. Go ahead and pull the hand wheel off of the machine along with the Belt Guard that has the bobbin winder on it.
Be sure to take lots of photos of the tear down process so you have something to go by when you put it back together. This will help jog your memory a bit if you forget something. Also ziploc bags are great for holding the screws and little bits that come off of the machine and be sure to label the bags to help you with where the parts go.
Are you ready to tackle the cleaning part yet? Here we go!!
You will need some Kerosene and a 1" disposable paint brush and possibly an old tooth brush if you want. I use an oil drain pan I picked up years ago at NAPA but you can use a aluminum pie pan or roaster to hold the kerosene, but you are going to take your brush and clean all of the workings really good with the kerosene. We call it giving it a "Kerosene bath" but you dont need to submerge the machine with the shellac deteriorating like it is. It will not hurt the finish but why drown it if we dont have to. The kerosene has a lubricating quality thats why its the cleaner of choice for old machines. I keep it in a parts washer here at the house just to clean the machines that I service.
Make sure you wash the inside area where the needlebar and presserbar is, thats where a lot of lint gets hung up and anywhere there is anything mechanical needs to be thoroughly cleaned. While you are cleaning the machine go ahead a throw the parts like the tensioner, handwheel, bobbin winder etc into the Kerosene.
After you finish cleaning your machine and the parts that you took off of the machine towel dry it off and let it sit for a bit. After it has dried then its time to start cleaning the outside of it.
Use a brass cleaner like Brasso and polish the badge, this will take forever but the attention to this detail will set the machine apart from the rest! I think it took me an hour or so to clean mine so that should give you an idea of what I am talking about.
You will need a NON PUMICE hand cleaner like GoJo and a bag of cotton balls and a bunch of Q-Tips. Dip the cotton ball into the hand cleaner and start cleaning the surface of the machine working in small areas using light to medium pressure. Work the cotton balls in a circular motion to clean around the machine. You will notice a huge difference in the machine as you start cleaning it. Wipe off the excess hand cleaner with a paper towel and move to the next area to be cleaned. This usually takes a while so take your time and if you want to stretch it over a few days then feel free to. It took me 2 weeks to clean mine up.
The Q-Tips are for the hard to reach spots and let me tell you this, you are going to use a lot of cotton balls and paper towels on this project!!! After the machine head is cleaned then start working on the plated parts.
There are 3 different finishes for the plated parts on the 66-1. They are listed as Polished Nickel, Satin Nickel and Blackside which was like the bluing of a gun. Yours will be either polished or satin, mine is the satin finish. SemiChrome is the best at cleaning the plated parts and you can find it at your local bike shop or NAPA auto parts. After cleaning your plated parts now you are ready to assemble and polish the entire machine.
Before assembly get a good sewing machine oil and oil everything that is metal to metal and all of the workings. There is an oil diagram in the user manual for this but common sense is the best for this one. After the thorough oiling now you are ready to put it together.
To polish the machine you can use a good carnuba wax or you can use Royal Gold furniture polish. Be sure to test a small place on the backside of you pillar so you can see if its compatible with the finish. Royal Gold in the pourable bottle is the best for hiding the crazing of the shellac it might take a few coats but it will start disappearing in a bit. Be sure to apply it with an old sock and polish it out with a soft lint free cloth like a diaper.
Then you can slip the head back into the treadle and put a new belt on and you are ready to go!!
If you have any questions feel free to PM me or ask here and I will do what ever I can to help you. And if you need a manual for your machine then I can send it to you through your email.
Billy
How to clean the machine its not hard it will just take some time. First thing you need to do is pull the machine out of the treadle buy undoing the screws on the hinges. Then find you something to sit the rascal on so you can start pulling it apart to clean it up. You really need to clean all of the workings first before thinking about the outside. It just makes for a better running machine and a better sewing experience.
Pull all of the plates off like the Faceplate, rear Inspection plate, Needleplate and the Bobbin plate. Now you need to pull the Tension assembly out which is really easy and take all of the parts apart to be able to clean and soak them. Go ahead and pull the hand wheel off of the machine along with the Belt Guard that has the bobbin winder on it.
Be sure to take lots of photos of the tear down process so you have something to go by when you put it back together. This will help jog your memory a bit if you forget something. Also ziploc bags are great for holding the screws and little bits that come off of the machine and be sure to label the bags to help you with where the parts go.
Are you ready to tackle the cleaning part yet? Here we go!!
You will need some Kerosene and a 1" disposable paint brush and possibly an old tooth brush if you want. I use an oil drain pan I picked up years ago at NAPA but you can use a aluminum pie pan or roaster to hold the kerosene, but you are going to take your brush and clean all of the workings really good with the kerosene. We call it giving it a "Kerosene bath" but you dont need to submerge the machine with the shellac deteriorating like it is. It will not hurt the finish but why drown it if we dont have to. The kerosene has a lubricating quality thats why its the cleaner of choice for old machines. I keep it in a parts washer here at the house just to clean the machines that I service.
Make sure you wash the inside area where the needlebar and presserbar is, thats where a lot of lint gets hung up and anywhere there is anything mechanical needs to be thoroughly cleaned. While you are cleaning the machine go ahead a throw the parts like the tensioner, handwheel, bobbin winder etc into the Kerosene.
After you finish cleaning your machine and the parts that you took off of the machine towel dry it off and let it sit for a bit. After it has dried then its time to start cleaning the outside of it.
Use a brass cleaner like Brasso and polish the badge, this will take forever but the attention to this detail will set the machine apart from the rest! I think it took me an hour or so to clean mine so that should give you an idea of what I am talking about.
You will need a NON PUMICE hand cleaner like GoJo and a bag of cotton balls and a bunch of Q-Tips. Dip the cotton ball into the hand cleaner and start cleaning the surface of the machine working in small areas using light to medium pressure. Work the cotton balls in a circular motion to clean around the machine. You will notice a huge difference in the machine as you start cleaning it. Wipe off the excess hand cleaner with a paper towel and move to the next area to be cleaned. This usually takes a while so take your time and if you want to stretch it over a few days then feel free to. It took me 2 weeks to clean mine up.
The Q-Tips are for the hard to reach spots and let me tell you this, you are going to use a lot of cotton balls and paper towels on this project!!! After the machine head is cleaned then start working on the plated parts.
There are 3 different finishes for the plated parts on the 66-1. They are listed as Polished Nickel, Satin Nickel and Blackside which was like the bluing of a gun. Yours will be either polished or satin, mine is the satin finish. SemiChrome is the best at cleaning the plated parts and you can find it at your local bike shop or NAPA auto parts. After cleaning your plated parts now you are ready to assemble and polish the entire machine.
Before assembly get a good sewing machine oil and oil everything that is metal to metal and all of the workings. There is an oil diagram in the user manual for this but common sense is the best for this one. After the thorough oiling now you are ready to put it together.
To polish the machine you can use a good carnuba wax or you can use Royal Gold furniture polish. Be sure to test a small place on the backside of you pillar so you can see if its compatible with the finish. Royal Gold in the pourable bottle is the best for hiding the crazing of the shellac it might take a few coats but it will start disappearing in a bit. Be sure to apply it with an old sock and polish it out with a soft lint free cloth like a diaper.
Then you can slip the head back into the treadle and put a new belt on and you are ready to go!!
If you have any questions feel free to PM me or ask here and I will do what ever I can to help you. And if you need a manual for your machine then I can send it to you through your email.
Billy
01-11-2010, 04:55 PM
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 1,775
oooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhh....she is so-o-o pretty!!! :-D They sure don't make them like that anymore!
Billy, sewing machine is gorgeous, too....you did a beautiful job cleaning it up. WOW! Those are wonderful directions, I'll have to print them out. Are those directions good for all the black sewing machines?
Billy, sewing machine is gorgeous, too....you did a beautiful job cleaning it up. WOW! Those are wonderful directions, I'll have to print them out. Are those directions good for all the black sewing machines?
01-11-2010, 05:06 PM
#17
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bikini Bottom
Posts: 5,652
These instructions work with just about any vintage machine out there. I use the same principles on cleaning every machine I work on. If they have nylon or plastic gears I have another way of cleaning it, but I rarely service any machines that are that new.
The only difference is the Japanese machines like the Morse, Kenmores, Whites, etc and newer Singers I will use a carnuba wax for the polish instead of the furniture polish. Those machines are actually painted with a paint and not a japan finish.
Billy
The only difference is the Japanese machines like the Morse, Kenmores, Whites, etc and newer Singers I will use a carnuba wax for the polish instead of the furniture polish. Those machines are actually painted with a paint and not a japan finish.
Billy
01-11-2010, 05:10 PM
#18
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Elsinore, CA
Posts: 15,144
Billy, thank you so much for the instructions. I have two treadle machines that I bought last year from craigslist. I have worked some on the cabinets and need to start on the heads. If you have any hints on how to clean up and take care of the cabinets, we would love to hear them.
01-11-2010, 05:22 PM
#19
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bikini Bottom
Posts: 5,652
Originally Posted by dunster
Billy, thank you so much for the instructions. I have two treadle machines that I bought last year from craigslist. I have worked some on the cabinets and need to start on the heads. If you have any hints on how to clean up and take care of the cabinets, we would love to hear them.
Go to the NeedleBar.org and register for the site. This is the hands down best site in the entire world to learn about the preservation and history of these old machines.
The Smithsonian uses the Needlebar all of the time for their research so how is that for credibility!?!
If you go to the main site after joining there is a link to a how to fix cabinets with this Elixer. It is a homemade recipe and it works!!!!
Billy
01-11-2010, 06:48 PM
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,075
lfw045 your machine is a beaut!!!!!!
Billy, you are awesome for giving us those instructions!!! I had never heard about the GoJo. I have several machines that I need to get started on cleaning up and will for sure try it your way!!! Thanks!!!!! :thumbup:
Billy, you are awesome for giving us those instructions!!! I had never heard about the GoJo. I have several machines that I need to get started on cleaning up and will for sure try it your way!!! Thanks!!!!! :thumbup:
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