Groovy boards or pantograms?
#21
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,783
I had a woodworking friend build my quilt frame (12 feet long) and I love it but I'm not real steady using Pantos. I liked that you friends hubby's made their groovy boards. Could you tell me what type of wood they used or what was the material they used and was it done with a router? Appreciate your guidance in this matter. You can email me at [email protected]
#22
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,783
If you are looking for an easy pantograph, look for something with a fairly open pattern so if you go outside the lines you will not overlap another stitching line. Also look for a pattern which will look good if the shapes end up not consistent because you didn't follow the lines exactly: flowers are good, because they will look nice even if they are not all the same---avoid geometric repeats, which will glaringly show inconsistent sizes or shapes. Some beginning machine quilters have problems with points and avoid them at first, but I had no problem with them. One of my first pantographs was an easy holly leaf pattern with all those pointed edges on the holly leaves. The thing with points is you have to learn how long to linger at the point: too long, and you have a build-up of thread there--not long enough, and you have no point at all, but a squared off corner. When I come to a point, I think of a ping pong ball hitting a wall and bouncing off quickly, and that works for me. You said your flowers turned out aweful: it just takes practice, practice, practice. Try doing a dry run (or several) before you actually stitch, by just following the pantograph with the light until you feel comfortable stitching it well. I do that every time I start a panto, even if it's one I have done before. Also, you have to remember to look ahead of where your laser light is, so your motions are smooth. It's kind of like driving a car---you aren't looking at the pavement just ahead of your bumper. Always look ahead to the next curve, the next point, etc., and your stitching lines will flow smoothly. That's what makes it look good, not so much that you followed the line exactly.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Posts: 635
I don't think the pantographs can be used with a regular sewing machine, with the mid arm or long arm set ups, the machine moves (thus can follow the pattern) vs the quilt being moved on a home sewing machine.
However, you can make a long template to stitch a border, or a centre motif. If it's a centre motif, drawn one 100 % size you want, stack wax paper squares the same size together, stitch pattern (without thread). This punches the pattern onto each square. You then iron the squares onto your quilt top, stitch (with thread) and then pull the paper off. For a long stretch/border, you find your repeat, drawn once onto a long strip of wax paper, fold the paper into accordian folds the size of your repeat and then stitch (without thread) so you have a template. Iron into place, stitch (with thread) and tear paper off.
I hope this is helpful, if you need more detail, please PM me.
GEMRM
However, you can make a long template to stitch a border, or a centre motif. If it's a centre motif, drawn one 100 % size you want, stack wax paper squares the same size together, stitch pattern (without thread). This punches the pattern onto each square. You then iron the squares onto your quilt top, stitch (with thread) and then pull the paper off. For a long stretch/border, you find your repeat, drawn once onto a long strip of wax paper, fold the paper into accordian folds the size of your repeat and then stitch (without thread) so you have a template. Iron into place, stitch (with thread) and tear paper off.
I hope this is helpful, if you need more detail, please PM me.
GEMRM
#24
There are smaller pantographs for short arm systems. Be aware that as you quilt, your take up bar will eat up some of your quilt area. The bigger the quilt, the smaller the area as you get to the end. Some quilters will reload the quilt the other direction to finish a long quilt.
Digitech Patterns will print out your pantograph at the size you choose. It has default size (if you dont' choose a diff size) and a suggested size (that will tell you if you can go smaller or bigger. you still CAN pick them, but the design may be squashed too small or stretched too large). Becareful! I always want them ALL! lol
http://www.digitechpaper.com/default.asp
Pantos by Dave Hudson are usually a good bet for starting out. His have larger designs and not too much detail.
Practice will help you tackle the more detailed as you go. I would suggest getting a few 5 inch designs and practicing with them for a few quilts till you get a rhythm and some confidence. PM for me if you need a cheerleader! Been there, done that!
Digitech Patterns will print out your pantograph at the size you choose. It has default size (if you dont' choose a diff size) and a suggested size (that will tell you if you can go smaller or bigger. you still CAN pick them, but the design may be squashed too small or stretched too large). Becareful! I always want them ALL! lol
http://www.digitechpaper.com/default.asp
Pantos by Dave Hudson are usually a good bet for starting out. His have larger designs and not too much detail.
Practice will help you tackle the more detailed as you go. I would suggest getting a few 5 inch designs and practicing with them for a few quilts till you get a rhythm and some confidence. PM for me if you need a cheerleader! Been there, done that!
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 121
I just came across this thread. I know it is very old but a couple were wanting to know what a panto was. I am posting a picture of one of mine on my table. This one is very easy and I use it alot.[ATTACH=CONFIG]521115[/ATTACH]
#26
I don't like either of them, but I like to quilt from the front of my LA. The boards are faster to do then pantos because a stylist is in the groove, not following a line with a laser. You do need to reposition the boards more often so that takes up a bit of time. Board systems are expensive and the boards themselves are not cheap!
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 640
I agree with Otis. I like the groovy boards. They are expensive, but I find them a whole lot easier to use. I have 3boards of each pattern. Well, not every pattern, but quite a few. If the quilt is larger than that, I "leap frog" the front board to the back. My machine has an 18" throat, so those are the ones that I have.
I saw them for the first time at the Houston Quilt Show and instantly saw the solution to my longarm frustration. I struggled with the pantographs, watching the pattern and the quilt at the same time. I never got the hang of it. I got my groovy boards from QuiltEZ. I'm thinking they are available elsewhere, but they are the only one I know.
I saw them for the first time at the Houston Quilt Show and instantly saw the solution to my longarm frustration. I struggled with the pantographs, watching the pattern and the quilt at the same time. I never got the hang of it. I got my groovy boards from QuiltEZ. I'm thinking they are available elsewhere, but they are the only one I know.
#28
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 121
I don't watch my quilt while I'm doing pantos, just glance up once in a while to make sure thread hasn't broken or ran out of bobbin. You don't have to perfectly trace the lines, they are mostly for guidelines. I can't quilt from the front of my machine. It don't have front handles, the on/off button and all the settings are at the back of machine. Maybe some day I can afford a true long arm
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