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Help! I pin and my blocks shift

Help! I pin and my blocks shift

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Old 01-05-2010, 02:37 PM
  #41  
dsj
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hehehe! I go through the same thing, it can be so frustrating, from now on it's "make my day" Love your humor!
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:42 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by LucyInTheSky
Also, make sure your seams "nest" with each other, where you press them in opposite directions. That makes things a lot easier too.
That helps me the most too. No matter what, there is always that one block that will not cooperate.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:09 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by amma
Take smaller bites of fabric with the pins and pin in more places. Keep the pins lined up with the intersecting seam lines...perpendicular, angled, etc...

I prefer to glue baste instead of pinning...when the bottle runs out, you can refill it with Elmer's brand school glue.

http://blog.fabshophop.com/blog/?p=1649
Great glue idea.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:53 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Deb watkins
It is the 3M scotch tape, double side, but the instructor was very specific to say that it was the red plaid label. He pins the quilt, but does the tape right on the seams, but not where he is stitching. When he is done, he removes the tape. I took the Bird of Paradise paper piecing class from him. Amazing.......some of the pieces of fabric when we were done were no more than 1/8 of an inch.
Deb ~ I am also a rubber stamper (besides quilting and knitting), so I've worked with double stick tape. 3M puts out two kinds of double stick tape: Permanent and temporary bond. Which are you using? I was thinking temporary bond, but now I'm wondering if it works the same on fabric as it does on paper? Maybe the temporary bond isn't strong enough to hold fabric?
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:21 AM
  #45  
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Thanks for all the good info, everyone! I'll have to put your suggestions to work for me, also. :thumbup:
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:04 AM
  #46  
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this tip came from Fons and Porter...I like the way it keeps the intersection lined right up I'll try and explain it, line up your seams with seams going in opposite directions as normal and then put your pin like this / . pin head on right side of seams and pin bottom on left side of seam. when your machine comes down the seam allowance stop with needle down directly in seam and remove pin...continue sewing, works for me.
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:19 AM
  #47  
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I saw this on ONNTV.
If you have a seam that just will not match up lay it out flat so the seams are even with each other. Use 1/2 inch Scotch tape and tape the two pieces togather then fold over and sew along the edge of the tape, it will be 1/4 inch. Your seam will match and just pull the tape off.
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Old 01-06-2010, 11:08 PM
  #48  
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I agree with Lucy In the Sky...invest in better pins, those are too thick. You might try spray starch and pressing. It's almost as good as basting. Then with fine pins, you can poke right on the stitching at the top seam, 1/4 inch down from the top and through to 1/4 inch from the top on the back and make a small stitch with the pin. Your seams should be pressed so that the nest against each other and if possible, sew in the direction to force the top seam against the bottom seam. I find this more accurate than pinning on each side of the seam.
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Old 01-06-2010, 11:33 PM
  #49  
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The trick is to press the seams to be sewn in opposite directions so you have opposing seams to match up as they are sewn. That gives you a great little ledge that locks them into place.
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:29 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by RedGarnet222
The trick is to press the seams to be sewn in opposite directions so you have opposing seams to match up as they are sewn. That gives you a great little ledge that locks them into place.
That's exactly right but sometimes that just isn't enough. That's why I put a pin in each of those seam allowances plus one just a hair to the left of the left one. Learned that on this board. Have made 3 or 4 quilts using that technic and it's worked every time.
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