How do you know what size needle & thread to use
#21
I love those cushions nana-up-north. I want to sit and read a book on them.
The size of the needles depends on the size of the thread. Use a 70/10 needle for very fine threads like silk, 60 wt threads or clear monofilament threads. The 80/12 is great for piecing threads like 50 wt threads. The 90/14 are great for the 40 wt threads. And 100/16 are needed for the 30 wt or heavier threads. We suggest a topstitch needle as the groove down to the eye is deeper protecting the thread from rubbing and fraying and the eye is larger, again protecting the thread (and saving our eyes when we thread them).
When purchasing cotton threads make sure you use a long or, better yet, extra long staple cotton. Anything other than that or if it the staple isn't mentioned at all, will cause a lot of lint and isn't as strong.
Ricci
The size of the needles depends on the size of the thread. Use a 70/10 needle for very fine threads like silk, 60 wt threads or clear monofilament threads. The 80/12 is great for piecing threads like 50 wt threads. The 90/14 are great for the 40 wt threads. And 100/16 are needed for the 30 wt or heavier threads. We suggest a topstitch needle as the groove down to the eye is deeper protecting the thread from rubbing and fraying and the eye is larger, again protecting the thread (and saving our eyes when we thread them).
When purchasing cotton threads make sure you use a long or, better yet, extra long staple cotton. Anything other than that or if it the staple isn't mentioned at all, will cause a lot of lint and isn't as strong.
Ricci
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 07-05-2013 at 02:28 PM.
#22
It depends on the thickness of your sandwich and the thickness of the thread you are using. I usually use 90/14 topstitch needle and 40 weight thread. However, sometimes it becomes 100/16 and 12 weight thread. You are best advised not to use hand quilting thread in your machine as the coating can interfere with your tension discs. Mettler quilting thread is OK to use in the machine, but the other brands have coatings on them and are good for hand quilting. I use number 9 betweens for hand quilting.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 429
Originally Posted by wantabe quilter
Thank you very much for that information. I was practicing free motion quilting yesterday and I kept having problems with my top thread showing through to the bottom. I did make some adjustments to top and bottom tension. I helped some. I am not sure if it had anything to do with the speed I was moving my material, or type batting, or needle size.
#25
I refer to this website for all my thread questions
http://www.superiorthreads.com/?gcli...FQLsKgodmn6AqA
http://www.superiorthreads.com/?gcli...FQLsKgodmn6AqA
#26
For piecing I use a 70/11 or 80/12 sharp needle. For quilting it does depend what thread you are quilting with. The thread websites are very helpful and people like Libby Lehman have many hints in their books and websites. :D
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 120
When I took a beginning quilt class, the instructor recommended we get "Machine Quilting Made Easy" by Maurine Noble because of the tables in it:
1. Lightweight Threads--Threaded through the Needle
2. Decorative Threads--Threaded through the Needle
3. Decorative Threads for the Bobbin or Couching
Each of these tables have columns listing:
Brand Name, Fiber Content, Weight, Meters/Yards, Notes.
4. Needles
Columns: Type, Sizes, Uses
5. Battings
Columns: Brand Name, Fiber Content, Quilting Distance, Comments
I highly recommend this book. I constantly turn to it as a reference book.
1. Lightweight Threads--Threaded through the Needle
2. Decorative Threads--Threaded through the Needle
3. Decorative Threads for the Bobbin or Couching
Each of these tables have columns listing:
Brand Name, Fiber Content, Weight, Meters/Yards, Notes.
4. Needles
Columns: Type, Sizes, Uses
5. Battings
Columns: Brand Name, Fiber Content, Quilting Distance, Comments
I highly recommend this book. I constantly turn to it as a reference book.
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