JudyBsquared

I'm making a wallhanging with a panel that is like a tapestry. I've added 4 borders. I can't free-motion so would do some kind of lines in the border. I'm not sure free-motion would look good anyway. I'm wondering how to secure the tapestry to the batting and backing. I don't think I want any stitching to show. I think maybe I could stitch along some of the dark lines in the tapestry.

PaperPrincess

How big is it? Is the fabric quilting cotton, or actual home dec type tapestry? what type of batting & how closely does the batting manufacturer say to quit?
The biggest issue I can see is the top and/or batting sagging because there's not enough quilting. If you didn't use batting, you could fuse the panel to a heavier backing.

JudyBsquared

Right now the whole thing is about 33" square. It is like woven upholstery fabric. It's a golf panel for my son. The tapestry is about 17" square. He now says he wants to frame it and I'm still thinking the heavier panel will sag. How would you fuse it? I think even after it's stretched it will sag. I'm not sure fusible bond would attach very well since it's coarsely woven on the back.

Bree123

If you're not needing it to be quilted, I would suggest maybe fusing it with that super thin wood sheeting (I've seen it in select sizes at Michael's, or you could try your local hardware/lumber store). You could try Fabric Fusion. I've not used it with tapestry fabrics, but I have used it to make fabric-covered boxes using cotton fabrics & cardboard or the thin wooden boxes they sell at hobby stores. It took a couple tries, but worked very nicely. The only thing is that the product says to pre-wash your fabrics, so if you didn't do that, I'm not sure what impact that might have. Still, it's inexpensive and maybe worth a small test with your remnants to see if it'd work.
Good luck!

PS -- If that doesn't turn out to be an option, I'd suggest taking it to a frame shop to see what they'd do. Sometimes even the people in the frame department at HL can be super knowledgeable & helpful (and tend to be more generous with their advice than a true frame shop). I made a cross stitch that was densely stitched & had quite a bit of bead work. HL found the perfect frame for it & there was no sagging at all. They just had to stretch it properly onto the frame (it was an open frame) & that was it.

ManiacQuilter2

If it were me and I may be more experienced, but I would carefully outline the large area with a matching thread so the stitching wouldn't sew. I would stitch above the flowers and outline the green (with the flag in the cup), the bridge and the lake. That should secure the quilt from sagging and prevent the batting from shifting. I would cross hatch the beige border without sewing thru the appliques. Good Luck. I am sure he is going to treasure it.

yadroc

IF you are going to frame it then you could prepare it like a piece of needlework by lacing it to a piece of foam core board. Many framing shop glue needlework to the foam core board BUT many traditionalist lace their work to the board because of the fear that the glue may come through or discolour over time. You should be able to find info on lacing needlework on the internet.

JudyBsquared

Thanks for the ideas. I now have several ways to approach it, along with input from the son who is a carpenter.

BTW - I had fun doing the embroidery designs but feel I spoiled it. No going back however. Another lesson learned... the hard way.

topper1

very pretty hope it works out....it should be great

IrishgalfromNJ

I never heard of lacing needlework before. Thanks for the information. I found a cool you tube video that shows how to do this. Something I may use in the future.

DACO48

You might try pinning it with tiny craft pins on foam core, gently pulling as you go, top/bottom/side to side. I used to work at Michaels and that is how we did cross stitch/crewel embroidery and needlepoint.