sandy l

I have been using Brenda Hennings Triangulations 3.0 for a long time to print off paper piecing triangulations in the size that I need. Simple to use, and I don't have to figure out any math

Rff1010

I personally love the strip method Of HSTs. I have the Creative Grids 4 in 1 ruler. For 4.5 hst (finish at 4...which is what I think you have) cut strips at 4.5. Layer 2 pieces of fabric then up/down cut to make pairs. Then sew like leaders and enders.

I used this method on my churn dash ....and I didn't need to square! Takes off 1 of the dog ears too. I think I got 16 per strip with very little waste. Try with scrap first.

greaterexp

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE

I see many videos with formulas for figuring out how to make 8 at a time HST of any size. Hope this helps.

juliasb

I would oversize and trim down for accuracy. I have found it so much easier to take off, since you can't add on, and this size is a bit unusual to start with. That little bit of difference could be hard to manage.

Watson

Just so I'm clear...if you cut two 4 7/8s pieces of fabric the resulting hst that you are holding in your hand is 4" ..correct?

And, if you cut two pieces of fabric 2 7/8s, the resulting hst that you are holding in your hand is 2"...correct?

I'm getting confused by the word "finished size".

Watson

EasyPeezy

Yes, Watson. Finished size is after sewing into your block.
If you cut two squares 4 7/8" and sew on the diagonal, etc. you will get two
4" finished HST's. But for better accuracy I would cut 5", sew and trim to 4.5".
4.5" is your unfinished HST. After you sew your HST in a block then it will be 4" finished.

Ariannaquilts

Eleanor Burns taught a method years ago where you could get whatever number of HST that you needed. You just put your two fabrics together RST draw a line and start sewing at one end to the other on both sides of the line. It sure made the process easier and faster. I don’t even recall the number of HST that my quilt required. By the way I made them larger size and trimmed them down, but that’s the Eleanor way.

Krisb

Watson, I don’t think anyone explicitly answered your question, so I will make a stab at it.

Cutting 4 7/8” squares and then either 1) cutting diagonally or 2) marking the diagonal line and sewing 1/4” on either side then cutting on the diagonal (same process in a different order) will put into your hand a HST measuring 4 1/2” unfinished size that will measure 4” when sewn into the quilt. Unfinished size means the size of the unit before being sewn into the quilt and finished size is the size of the unit after sewn into the squilt.

You want to use the 4 at a time method, here are your sizes for beginning squares:

• larger squares start with 7” squares and trim the units to 4.5”
• smaller squares start with 4.25” squares and trim the units to 2.5”

All of the outside edges will be on the bias, which is why so many people said they didn’t like this method.

If you want to use the 8 at a time method:

• larger squares start with 9.75” squares and trim the units to 4.5”
• smaller squares start with 6.75” squares and trim the units to 2.5”

Advantage is that the outer edges are on the straight grain of the fabric which minimizes stretch. Disadvantages are you need to mark the diagonals and you get 8 HST exactly alike, which might not work with the pattern you are making.

Watson

Thank you, Krisb...that's the answer I needed. A 4 1/2" HST.

Watson