I broke the curse of King Tut!
10-07-2021, 06:56 AM
#11
Power Poster
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 17,827
OneByOne and Sewing Pup ... Following up on your comments regarding machines set to specific threads. Yes, it is true. After I got my Bernina back the one time, I complained the tension was all wrong. I was asked what thread I was using. Aurifil. From then on, I sent Aurifil thread on both top and bottom, with a note for him, asking for the machine to be set for that thread. Yes, from then on, it came on with good tension, with my mainly used thread. Otherwise, then, I adjusted tension accordingly, if/when switching to other threads.
10-07-2021, 06:59 AM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Virginia
Posts: 238
Glad that you found a way to make things work for you!
Aside from telling us the problems you had, you didn't mention what else you have tried to solve your problem. Just some ideas here, in case you haven't thought of these ......... When you switched from King Tut to the Mettler thread, did you switch the needle? King Tut is a coarser thread, thus needs a needle with a larger eye. Plus when doing FMQing you need a different type of needle than when doing regular stitching, such as when you are piecing. Also, tension may need to be adjusted.
Good Luck!!
May your good day of quilting, return for you again, and again and .....
Aside from telling us the problems you had, you didn't mention what else you have tried to solve your problem. Just some ideas here, in case you haven't thought of these ......... When you switched from King Tut to the Mettler thread, did you switch the needle? King Tut is a coarser thread, thus needs a needle with a larger eye. Plus when doing FMQing you need a different type of needle than when doing regular stitching, such as when you are piecing. Also, tension may need to be adjusted.
Good Luck!!
May your good day of quilting, return for you again, and again and .....
I didn't know Bernina calibrates its machines at the factory with polyester thread. Good information to know. I have a 1008 -- just a simple mechanical machine, but I have loved it.
10-07-2021, 08:17 AM
#14
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,167
I've been mostly using a 14 universal type needle for my domestic FMQ. I have a bunch of tops to quilt down and I'd like to run some tests and will also be looking for recommendations before my next needle purchase.
I understand "quilting" needles typically don't need super sharp points, but I do like Microtex 14 when I have a top that is primarily batiks or tight fine weaves.
So do you all find a difference/have a preference between universal, quilting, denim, etc?? I'm mostly happy with the 14s but have gone up on size for some projects.
I typically do fairly simple designs, basic meander variations. I'm more likely to use a poly batt than warm and natural.
I understand "quilting" needles typically don't need super sharp points, but I do like Microtex 14 when I have a top that is primarily batiks or tight fine weaves.
So do you all find a difference/have a preference between universal, quilting, denim, etc?? I'm mostly happy with the 14s but have gone up on size for some projects.
I typically do fairly simple designs, basic meander variations. I'm more likely to use a poly batt than warm and natural.
10-07-2021, 08:43 PM
#16
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,559
Not just a larger eye (which will accommodate the thicker thread much better), but a larger needle such as a 16 or an 18 is better for FMQ. When you FMQ, the needle has to be able to withstand the pulling and pushing you do as you sew. Smaller needles have more flex, and if they flex too much you will get skipped stitches. Switch to a larger needle to avoid flexing. This is true of both DSMs and longarms, in fact, a size 18 is pretty standard for longarm quilting.
