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I wil never get it right

I wil never get it right

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Old 01-23-2014, 02:01 PM
  #41  
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Default Help with 1/4" Seams

Tapper! I feel your pain. I too was at the same place you are at right now just a month or so ago. I was trying to make a fairly easy quilt (Hidden Wells) for my GGD and I was having a devil of a time with my 1/4-inch seems. I had tried every presser foot that I could think of; I marked them with ink, I moved my needle and I still couldn't get it right. The Hidden Wells quilt is made by sewing different width strips together (7 strips or so) and then cutting the sewn strips into a square. You then have to cut up the squares corner to corner. You are supposed to have very distinct points. Well I lost almost all of my points trying to square the strips up. I thought that that would be my LAST quilt. I was so discouraged. Well, I took out ALL of my presser feet - even those I had never looked at or used and low and behold I found the one in the photos below. It is a very FLAT foot. It sits right on top of your fabric and it has a straight bar going to the right with notches in it. If it weren't for finding this foot (sorry I don't know what it is called). I would have stopped sewing quilts. I was that aggravated and discouraged. I hope this helps you. I have a Brothers NX 2000/Low Shank sewing machine with snap-on presser feet. I should tell you that the blue tape and the ability to move my needle horizontally also helps me. The blue tape behind the needle is to stop the glare from my little attached light.

The only down side (if you can even call it that) is that I do have to use my stiletto to hold down my seam allowances because the foot sits flat on the fabric, which is really nice because you can judge where the marks are in relation to your fabric quite easily. Yolanda

[ATTACH=CONFIG]458277[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails 1-4-inch-foot.jpg  

Last edited by littlebitoheaven; 01-23-2014 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:05 PM
  #42  
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Switch to paper piecing???
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:12 PM
  #43  
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I usually wait to starch the fabrics until right before I cut them. It makes cutting easier as well as more accurate. Then I might give it a second "spritz" if I'm using large pieces of fabric to make the block, or when I set the final block. Just spray starch works. I use Faultless spray starch, but others work nicely as well.

Just a question: are you using the exact same ruler to cut all of your pieces? It's important to keep the cutting consistent, otherwise the fact your blocks are off may have nothing to do with your seam allowance.

And just hang in there, trying things. It took me a while as well. But you'll get it eventually, I promise.
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:24 PM
  #44  
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I am curious as to why a 2 hour span is needed to starch the fabric?

You can also make a 50/50 solution of starch in a large cooking pot and immerse the fabric in it. I've only done that once (and only soaked it for a few minutes), because all the tiny starch particles that shake off of fabric while handling the fabric afterward cause my allergies to flare. The once that I did it was to prevent a LQS quality fabric from shredding the .25 inch seam away as I sewed. Starching helped immensely with that, but I was quietly simmering about how awful that expensive fabric was!

After soaking the fabric, I used the spin cycle of my washer to get the excess water out, then put it in the dryer. It was damp when I took it out of the dryer, so that's when I ironed it.

Anyway, it was helpful with both cutting and piecing.

I'm not sure why starching 2 hours before using the fabric is important, though.
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Old 01-23-2014, 02:35 PM
  #45  
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What really made a difference for me was the simple act of taking my eyes off the needle when it goes up and down.

Now I watch to make sure the fabric is lined up with the quilting foot edge as I sew.

When I pin the fabric together, I pin it horizontally about an 3/4" to 1 " away from the edge of the fabric. It seems to distort the fabric less than pinning vertically, and you don't have to take the pins out of the fabrics until you have finished sewing the seam. That's less distraction from the actual sewing.

Like Dina, I use the 1/4 inch foot that doesn't have the little guide on the side. I can see the fabric better and thus guiding it is easier.
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:28 PM
  #46  
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All good suggestions....thank you.

Yolanda, I have tried the tape idea.
I think I just need a new machine.
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Old 01-23-2014, 04:38 PM
  #47  
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As Mary ellen Hopkins used to say when teaching quilters. What ever your seam width winds up being, just make sure you use all through your quilt.
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:09 PM
  #48  
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My trick is to use STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT , at least to practice your seam allowance. It holds your fabric steadier preventing slipping and still gives a 1/4 inch allowance. The hole on it is also big enough to allow you to move your needle position a little for a scant seam allowance. Maybe not very orthodox but helps in gaining confidence!
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:08 AM
  #49  
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Another thought- If you are using precuts please check them for size. It seems to be more common that they are not accurately cut! Mentioned by several ladies in my guild. Also check your cutting for accuracy. Use a ruler, not the lines on your mat because they also may not be accurate. I had to replace my 6 1/2" long ruler because I'd worn the edge down a bit. Please don't be frustrated- finding the perfect 1/4" is only a matter of learning a few simple tricks for cutting accurately and measuring your sewing line. Rest assured many simple patterns such as rail fence and log cabin don't require such precision if you are sewing for yourself and using the same machine for all the piecing. I still piece my triangles a bit oversized and trim them down. Sewing a scant 1/4" helps compensate for the thickness of the fabric when you fold and press the seam back. Hang in there!

Last edited by Monroe; 01-24-2014 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 01-24-2014, 06:39 AM
  #50  
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What marvelously wonderful people on this board!

Thanks for a warm start to a cold day.

Pat
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