Issues with machine quilting "points"
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 361
Issues with machine quilting "points"
Don't know if it's obvious or not in this picture but I am having an issue quilting around these Dresden Plates. I intend to quilt around each plate with successive rows of quilting. The thread is "pulling" only at the point of the triangle no matter how careful I am when pivoting. I am using Cream Rose Batt, Cotton Machine
Quilting thread, and Microtex 80/12 needle. I basted heavily with pins but removed them for picture. Any suggestions appreciated.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]568591[/ATTACH]
Quilting thread, and Microtex 80/12 needle. I basted heavily with pins but removed them for picture. Any suggestions appreciated.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]568591[/ATTACH]
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Blue Ridge Mountians
Posts: 7,076
from your list I see your needle size (80/12) is too small for quilting thread. Use either thinner thread or bigger needle. Next adjust tension for these changes, and check pressure foot tension. Pretty Plates!
Last edited by Jane Quilter; 02-19-2017 at 02:50 PM.
#3
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930
If you are talking about the quilting lines around (outside of) the Dresden plate, then I really cannot see the problem in this photo.
Edit: What brand (and ply and weight, if the spool tells you) of cotton machine quilting thread are you using? I never use thread that is specifically branded for machine quilting, so I'm not sure what size it is. As Jane Q pointed out, your needle size needs to be correct for your thread size.
Also, how long is your stitch? The quilting stitches look on the short side to me, and stitch length can affect the quilting.
Edit: What brand (and ply and weight, if the spool tells you) of cotton machine quilting thread are you using? I never use thread that is specifically branded for machine quilting, so I'm not sure what size it is. As Jane Q pointed out, your needle size needs to be correct for your thread size.
Also, how long is your stitch? The quilting stitches look on the short side to me, and stitch length can affect the quilting.
Last edited by Prism99; 02-19-2017 at 02:52 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 361
Thanks!I have increased stitch length since I did the original line outside of the plate. Ill up the needle size. What type of thread have you had success with? I've done a lot of sewing but not as much quilting
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Rosemere, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 322
I've recently done a Dresden Plate, and quilted close to the "plate" and then echoed, as is your intention I think. I used Glide 40 wt. in both needle and bobbin, and Topstitch 14 needle. No problem whatsoever. Glide is a great thread.
#6
If you need help pivoting at the point, I'd put a straight pin in the tip of the dresdens pointing outward toward where you will do the echo quilting. get to the pin, remove pin, pivot and continue echo.
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Piedmont Virginia in the Foothills of the Blue Ridge Mtns.
Posts: 8,562
Do you pivot at the point with your needle DOWN IN THE FABRIC?
To pivot, even with the needle down, the fabric can easily be "over manipulated" underneath the needle....I'm talking about down thru the layers.
After you pivot, with the needle still down, jiggle the fabric slightly to see if it wants to readjust itself on the bottom layers.
If you'll do this several times, you'll soon learn what you are doing that causes the lower layers to shift more than they should. The point is, all the layers need to be lined up with each other after the turn/pivot, to prevent that wobble at the point.
Good luck!
To pivot, even with the needle down, the fabric can easily be "over manipulated" underneath the needle....I'm talking about down thru the layers.
After you pivot, with the needle still down, jiggle the fabric slightly to see if it wants to readjust itself on the bottom layers.
If you'll do this several times, you'll soon learn what you are doing that causes the lower layers to shift more than they should. The point is, all the layers need to be lined up with each other after the turn/pivot, to prevent that wobble at the point.
Good luck!
#10
The trick I use to minimize the pulling at a point, where the bobbin thread seems to come up to the top and the top thread is more of an arc rather than a sharp point, is to stop in the needle down position. After I've done that I manually turn the wheel just a tad to make sure the needle is all the way down and has picked up the bobbin thread. The needle will start to come up just a smidgen. Once I have done that I turn my work and like Jan said make sure everything is flat and lined up and then put the presser foot down and slowly begin stitching. I think the pulled points are caused in part by the needle not fully engaging the bobbin thread until after the pivot and you're sewing in the new direction. It is like it is trying to catch up with you.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bearisgray
General Chit-Chat (non-quilting talk)
65
02-01-2024 09:04 AM
tothenci
Links and Resources
6
06-22-2012 10:15 AM