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1. ## Joining binding strips

I can't believe I'm asking a math question, but here goes. When determining how many binding strips to cut, how do you calculate how much will be needed for the diagonal joins? I needed 320" of binding, which is about 8 strips. I cut nine to allow for the 8 joins. I only used about 6" of the ninth strip. My mind says that a diagonal join should use more. Do you only need about 1/2"? It's not important, but I don't like being confused.

2. I too get confused so I calculate what is needed then add 10", easy to cut off extra than to add.

3. I think you only have to calculate losing 1/2" for each join. Nice to know when the numbers are close. This time I had plenty of extra as my LQS insists you buy 1 yard when fabric is in clearance.

4. I use the Robert Kaufman app. Works every time for me.

5. For a diagonal join you will lose a little more than the width of your binding strip.

Your diagonal stitch line goes from corner to corner of an imaginary 'square' IYSWIM, and when you open it out you have 'lost' the length of the overlap. The extra length of binding that you add to your calculation is one 'overlap'. Overlapping the final ends of binding and cutting it longer by the measurement of the width (eg an extra 2 1/2") is how I make the final join of the binding when attaching it to the quilt. Easier to do than explain. You will also lose a little binding with the mitres on the corners.

Left over binding always come in useful for scrappy binding on Linus quilts or for scrappy patterns.

6. Originally Posted by Carron
I too get confused so I calculate what is needed then add 10", easy to cut off extra than to add.
I just add 10-12 inches and I’ve never come up short. (So far ��)

7. I always make extra binding. I figure about 4 inches for each join and about 12 inches extra for my connecting join at the end. I keep any extra binding in a zip lock for little projects.

8. To be clear, I meant that you add one overlap per join.

Originally Posted by Bobbinalong
For a diagonal join you will lose a little more than the width of your binding strip.

Your diagonal stitch line goes from corner to corner of an imaginary 'square' IYSWIM, and when you open it out you have 'lost' the length of the overlap. The extra length of binding that you add to your calculation is one 'overlap'. Overlapping the final ends of binding and cutting it longer by the measurement of the width (eg an extra 2 1/2") is how I make the final join of the binding when attaching it to the quilt. Easier to do than explain. You will also lose a little binding with the mitres on the corners.

Left over binding always come in useful for scrappy binding on Linus quilts or for scrappy patterns.

9. When I measure for my binding I take all 4 sides plus add 10". Divide it by 40 instead of 42, figure that would cover the diagonal seams I use. I've never had not enough. The leftover gets put into my 2.25" basket of scraps.

10. I have difficulty figuring out the amout too - some times straightforward and sometimes not

I have used this site for their "quilt binding calculator" with success and have always added a little but more "just in case".

11. I'm going with losing 1/2" on each join - the 1/4" seam. I intensely dislike cutting extra as I have too many scraps. At least binding ones are useful. I don't work with less than 2 1/2" scraps and I can't find anyone to take my scraps that are from 1 1/2" to 2 1/2". I guess it's time to pitch them.

12. Originally Posted by Irishrose2
I'm going with losing 1/2" on each join - the 1/4" seam. I intensely dislike cutting extra as I have too many scraps. At least binding ones are useful. I don't work with less than 2 1/2" scraps and I can't find anyone to take my scraps that are from 1 1/2" to 2 1/2". I guess it's time to pitch them.
Oh Irish! Please don't pitch them! There are a lot of Bonnie Hunter fans on the board who would love to take them off your hands, me included!

13. If it's a print I join straight across. I stopped doing the angle join unless it's a light color solid. One of the best how-to I got from a very expensive quilt finishing lecture at a National Quilter's Association show.

14. When I figure my binding needs I measure the 4 sides of the quilt, add 10” then divide by 40” to see how many strips I need. If I need 8.25 I cut 9. I figure it’s always better to have a bit extra left over than to run short.

15. I must have been at that same lecture onebyone. Bias binding joined straight works just fine and the print can be matched to be uninterrupted if that needs to be. I forgot the lecturer but remember she was a national quilt judge that went all over judging shows.

16. I always make a point of cutting extra strips -- just in case. Extra binding strips are sewn together, pressed in half and wound into coils and stored for later use on another project. This has saved me time on several projects. It just takes a little time to cut more strips while I have the fabric setup to cut them.

17. Mywebquilter.com is the best free online quilt calculator I have ever found . Has a quilt blocks library ; it's a world of information .

18. SusiSew, I have an offer posted in that section of the QB for scraps for postage, but have had no responses. I understand because postage has gone up so much.

19. [QUOTE=Bobbinalong;8299885]For a diagonal join you will lose a little more than the width of your binding strip.
You will also lose a little binding with the mitres on the corners. Quote]

No you don't lose anything on the corners. The edge of the binding lays on the edge of the quilt and just goes around the corner. There is no fold on the exact corner.

The reason for sewing binding on the diagonal is to reduce bulk. If you make seams straight across, you will have 12 thickness of fabric at that spot, plus the quilt top, back and batt. And that's if you pressed the seam open.

But I don't cut my bindings on the 45º either. I lay the strips on the mat, lined up carefully with the printed lines with one inch of overlap. Then I cut an angle from the corner of the top one to the corner of the bottom one. You can't see the bottom one, but the lines on the mat will tell you where that is. That way I only lose one inch instead of the complete width of the binding.

20. I just make it easier on myself (rather than a bunch of math) and I add 3" per join. So you would have needed 24". I know that is too much, but just easier for the old brain! (i think you used so very little because you were calculating your WOF as 40" and it is often 42" or 43", so you already have some wiggle room.)

21. Originally Posted by quiltsRfun
I use the Robert Kaufman app. Works every time for me.
Yeah...that app on my phone is awesome...math is not my thing and it's worked perfect for me every time. I recommend it. Use it for borders, backing and binding.

22. Depends on style of final joining you use. We use 2 1/4” wide binding. Then we figure the circumference of quilt plus 20l”. This gives us plenty for corners and our join and extra to move seams around so none end up on corners.

23. Gee Guys where were you two days ago when I was in a huge hurry to bind a quilt and thought I had calculated rightishly einough. When I put it on, I was short by 4 inches!!!! Dang!! I know it just took a bit more time but--Dang!!

24. Originally Posted by Irishrose2
SusiSew, I have an offer posted in that section of the QB for scraps for postage, but have had no responses. I understand because postage has gone up so much.
If you belong to a quilt guild, offer them to members there. Someone will be happy to have them.

25. I am in the "I would rather have a lot left over, than be 1/2 inch short" group.

Because I usually use bias binding, and I cut the strips as long as I can from the fabric I have available, I usually start with measuring/calculating the perimeter of the quilt.

That continuous method where a piece is sewn into a tube and then cut - it seems to me that there would be a lot of seams in the binding - and I try to have as few as possible.

I usually cut the strips about 2-7/8 to 3 inches wide. Because the ends of the strips are usually diagonal to the main part of the strips, I measure the "available" lengths for "when I think I have enough".

I also usually have two big triangles left - which do not fold up tidily. But "my circus, my monkey".

I also like to have the flexibility to adjust where a seam falls - I do not like to fight with the extra bulk at a corner.

I also like to have a bit extra for the final join.

Turns out I don't actually "calculate" - I think I do more of a "add up the lengths as I go" until I have "enough" - which is usually a lot more than the minimum needed.

I can eke out, squeak out, as well as almost anyone - but if I don't need to, I tend to be "extravagant".

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