sarge1

I’m doing a machine appliqué quilt. I used heat n bond to fuse the pieces, and am using a zig zag stitch with invisible thread. The edges seem to be getting chewed up (see picture). I am cleaning it all up carefully with a small pair of scissors, but of course that is time consuming. Is this something that naturally happens with raw edge, or am I doing something wrong? Thank you!

quiltingshorttimer

I try to get the outside zigzag hitting just beyond the applique edge and the other zig zag into the applique far enough that I stay off the actual edge of the applique. Takes some practice and I don't do much applique so it's rough!

mjkgquilt

I am not good with using a zigzag around an applique. Use a blanket stitch instead and that makes me think about ins and outs around the edge.

mkc

I have done zigzag once on an applique, and in that case it was essentially turned edge, the fabric was wool suiting material, and my stitch was 1.0/1.0 with monopoly (which was a real challenge).

With raw edge cotton I would be more inclined to use blanket or satin stitch and an embroidery-type thread (thicker for blanket stitch, thinner for satin).

Tartan

A zig zag is going to fray the edge if the one zig hits the edge of the appliqué. If you want to continue with the zig zag, I think you will have to accept someone fraying.

Mkotch

I find using a stabilizer underneath helps a lot. I hate removing it afterwards, though.

QuiltnNan

I do use raw edge/fused machine applique, but only for wall hangings. If appliqueing on a quilt that will be washed on a regular basis, I use turned applique because I do not like the fraying danger. A friend teaches invisible machine applique and uses mono-poly thread and a very narrow zig zag with half of the stitch on the background and half on the applique. I have also heard that a tightly woven batique is best to use for this method as it is more difficult to fray.

aashley333

I have not used heat n bond to fuse the pieces. To applique, I draw design on backside, straight stitch to attach each fabric, turn over and trim close to stitch line. Lay down newspaper to stablize, then satin stitch around, keeping my straight stitch in the middle as a guide.

So, my suggestion is to lay down newspaper between machine and project and shorten the stitch length.

patricej

Steam-a-Seam2 works better for me than other fusibles I have tried.
the others were not lousy products.
i am an inept user.
Steam-a-Seam2 - so far - has been idiot[me]-proof.

to prevent frays before i stitch down, and in the wash, i go over the edges with June Tailor Fray Block.
it's easy to apply in thin streams around edges.
it dries clear and doesn't make the fabrics stiff.
just do not press it or let the area around it get wet until it has dried completely.

juliasb

When using invisible thread you always have to keep in mind that it stretches and it stretches unevenly. On top of the ziz-zag makes it doubly likely to fray a bit. I would do away with the ziz-zag and carefully sew around the outside or I would match my thread to each piece and sew around each piece. The ziz-zag is pretty but adds to the possibility of fraying.