Needle Sizes
02-06-2017, 08:25 PM
#1
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Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 383
Needle Sizes
My goodness, the variety & styles available! I really like the Microtex needles from Schmetz from my local JAF. What is the difference between the 70 & 80? I use the Essential cotton cone thread from a Connecting Threads or Guttermann. Thank you!
02-07-2017, 10:16 AM
#4
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Join Date: May 2015
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Do you find that its easier on the thread? I've never had shredding, so this is all new to me.
Originally Posted by EasyPeezy
When I use Essential Cotton from CT I like to use Topstitch 90/14 needle
(Schmetz or Superior Titanium). Never used Gutterman.
(Schmetz or Superior Titanium). Never used Gutterman.
02-07-2017, 02:56 PM
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
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A size 70 needle is very fine and has a very small hole for the thread. I like to use a size 70 microtex needle for invisible machine applique. The thread I use is also very fine (either YLI nylon monofilament which is .003mm, or Bottom Line which is a polyester 60wt). This combo makes for the smallest needle holes and my most accurate stitching next to the applique. I like the fine point of the microtex needle for applique. It seems to give me more precise positioning and accuracy for machine applique and it also creates very fine, exact holes.
For piecing, I prefer a size 80 needle because I want a stronger needle that can handle the speed of my piecing. I piece much faster than I machine applique! Although I like a microtex needle for piecing as well as applique, I usually opt for a top stitching needle in a size 80 for piecing. This is because the needle hole is larger, making it much easier for me to thread the needle. For piecing, I like to use Aurifil 2-ply 50wt thread.
Which needle size you choose depends to a great extent on the thread you are using. Thicker threads require larger needles (and needle holes) in order not to shred. Lesser quality cotton threads (the kind that shed a lot of lint because they were made using short-strand cotton) may require a larger needle and needle hole to prevent shredding than, say, a similar weight polyester thread or a high quality cotton thread (such as Prescencia or Aurifil). The higher quality threads are made with longer-strand cotton and may also have better finishing processes applied, so that the thread becomes very smooth and does not shed much lint.
The choice between microtex and topstitch needles is largely a matter of preference. Topstitch needles are easier to thread and are probably also easier on the thread, so less likely to cause shredding. However, microtex needles have sharper points, creating smaller holes in the fabric, and are probably slightly more precise. I never had a need to change from microtex until I started having trouble threading the needle. At that point, it was a great relief when I changed to a topstitch needle for piecing. I still find it worthwhile to use the microtex for machine applique, though.
Probably the only time I would use a size 90 needle would be if I were free-motion quilting with a heavier thread (perhaps King Tut or something even heavier than that). Size 90 is good for people just starting out in FMQ because it will bend less (and therefore result in fewer broken needles) while you are learning how to move the quilt sandwich around under the needle.
For piecing, I prefer a size 80 needle because I want a stronger needle that can handle the speed of my piecing. I piece much faster than I machine applique! Although I like a microtex needle for piecing as well as applique, I usually opt for a top stitching needle in a size 80 for piecing. This is because the needle hole is larger, making it much easier for me to thread the needle. For piecing, I like to use Aurifil 2-ply 50wt thread.
Which needle size you choose depends to a great extent on the thread you are using. Thicker threads require larger needles (and needle holes) in order not to shred. Lesser quality cotton threads (the kind that shed a lot of lint because they were made using short-strand cotton) may require a larger needle and needle hole to prevent shredding than, say, a similar weight polyester thread or a high quality cotton thread (such as Prescencia or Aurifil). The higher quality threads are made with longer-strand cotton and may also have better finishing processes applied, so that the thread becomes very smooth and does not shed much lint.
The choice between microtex and topstitch needles is largely a matter of preference. Topstitch needles are easier to thread and are probably also easier on the thread, so less likely to cause shredding. However, microtex needles have sharper points, creating smaller holes in the fabric, and are probably slightly more precise. I never had a need to change from microtex until I started having trouble threading the needle. At that point, it was a great relief when I changed to a topstitch needle for piecing. I still find it worthwhile to use the microtex for machine applique, though.
Probably the only time I would use a size 90 needle would be if I were free-motion quilting with a heavier thread (perhaps King Tut or something even heavier than that). Size 90 is good for people just starting out in FMQ because it will bend less (and therefore result in fewer broken needles) while you are learning how to move the quilt sandwich around under the needle.
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