purplefiend

I've learned not to stress over the stitches showing. I give most of my quilts to "The Linus Connection" a organization that gives quilts and yarn blankets to in-need/sick kids.

Crlyn

I follow Eleanor Burns method and have no problems, especially after previously always doing my binding by hand after turning it to the back.

http://www.quiltinaday.com/television/video-binding.asp

dgmoby

I would think it would be hard to name a specific width of binding that works perfectly for all quilts, every time. The fabrics and battings make it hard as each quilt is a slightly different height. Treatments like serging the edges, sewing the edges down, etc. all will make a difference in the height as well.

Therefore, I'd seriously consider sampling different widths of bindings on each quilt before cutting it all. I'd make several samples, 2", 2 1/4", 2 1/8', 2 1/2" widths, etc. To test them, I'd pin the binding down for the 1/4" seam, pinning as if it's a sewn line, then wrap it around and see where it landed and where the top seam line would fall or where it would need to fall. I'd find the best one that fit, and if you like it, then proceed with that width, and you'll already know the exact seam allowance to sew with.

I'd certainly either pin or glue the binding down before sewing, to make sure it's in the right place. Since you've already tested the width, you'll know the exact seam allowance to sew it with.

This is the only way I can see it working perfectly, all the time. Clear as mud?

Hopefully, someone else knows better than me...
Debbie in Austin

Holice

if you want border to match as you describe you you have to adjust the width of the cut and folded binding accordingly.
The old "rule" was to cut binding 6 times the width of your seam allowance. However, this didn't allow for folds and loft of your binding. If you fold your binding and measure in thirds, then 1/3 should be the width of your seam allowance. Try this and adjust accordingly. Cutting at 2.5" and using a 3/8" seam allowance is a bit too large. 2"-2 1/4 is more fitting.

yetta

I watched the demos, thank you so much.for posting them.... .

patchsamkim

I find I have the best success with cutting the binding 2-1/4 wide....and I have done both the sewing to the front and the sewing to the back first methods...if sewing with a straight stitch in the ditch, I will do either method, and if doing decorative stitch, I think it looks best to sew to the back of quilt first.
Most of the time though, I am making quilts to be used and I dont worry about the binding being perfect. I can't do handsewing for that long so no longer can do bindings by hand and am just happy to get the quilts finished.

grann of 6

I have serged the edges too, but find that it squashed the edge and prevents you from having a nice puffy, full binding. For my flannel quilts I like to use a 3/8" seam, gives a nice full edge and less chance of fraying or coming loose down the road.

ckcowl

machine stitching the binding to the front, folding it to the back and hand stitching it down with an invisible stitch will solve your problem.
i have in the past 10 years tried a few times to machine stitch the binding on both sides. i don't care what anyone says it always looks like crap! i figure if i'm going to put all the work into making a quilt top and quilting it- it makes no sense to ruin it with a shoddy technique of finishing. you do not save anything, you only make what was good work look poor. sorry...my 2 cents worth...i have never seen a complete machine stitched binding that did not look like a machine stitched binding.

MadQuilter

Yep - what amma said!

grann of 6

What you say may be true, but there are some of us who are afflicted with arthritis in such a way that we can't hand sew. I am one of those, and I am not willing to give up my love of quilting just because I can't hand stitch any more. My quilts are made to be used, hence the machine stitched binding.