Perfect Machine Binding????
#12
I follow Eleanor Burns method and have no problems, especially after previously always doing my binding by hand after turning it to the back.
http://www.quiltinaday.com/television/video-binding.asp
http://www.quiltinaday.com/television/video-binding.asp
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 547
I would think it would be hard to name a specific width of binding that works perfectly for all quilts, every time. The fabrics and battings make it hard as each quilt is a slightly different height. Treatments like serging the edges, sewing the edges down, etc. all will make a difference in the height as well.
Therefore, I'd seriously consider sampling different widths of bindings on each quilt before cutting it all. I'd make several samples, 2", 2 1/4", 2 1/8', 2 1/2" widths, etc. To test them, I'd pin the binding down for the 1/4" seam, pinning as if it's a sewn line, then wrap it around and see where it landed and where the top seam line would fall or where it would need to fall. I'd find the best one that fit, and if you like it, then proceed with that width, and you'll already know the exact seam allowance to sew with.
I'd certainly either pin or glue the binding down before sewing, to make sure it's in the right place. Since you've already tested the width, you'll know the exact seam allowance to sew it with.
This is the only way I can see it working perfectly, all the time. Clear as mud?
Hopefully, someone else knows better than me...
Debbie in Austin
Therefore, I'd seriously consider sampling different widths of bindings on each quilt before cutting it all. I'd make several samples, 2", 2 1/4", 2 1/8', 2 1/2" widths, etc. To test them, I'd pin the binding down for the 1/4" seam, pinning as if it's a sewn line, then wrap it around and see where it landed and where the top seam line would fall or where it would need to fall. I'd find the best one that fit, and if you like it, then proceed with that width, and you'll already know the exact seam allowance to sew with.
I'd certainly either pin or glue the binding down before sewing, to make sure it's in the right place. Since you've already tested the width, you'll know the exact seam allowance to sew it with.
This is the only way I can see it working perfectly, all the time. Clear as mud?
Hopefully, someone else knows better than me...
Debbie in Austin
#14
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sturbridge, Ma
Posts: 3,992
if you want border to match as you describe you you have to adjust the width of the cut and folded binding accordingly.
The old "rule" was to cut binding 6 times the width of your seam allowance. However, this didn't allow for folds and loft of your binding. If you fold your binding and measure in thirds, then 1/3 should be the width of your seam allowance. Try this and adjust accordingly. Cutting at 2.5" and using a 3/8" seam allowance is a bit too large. 2"-2 1/4 is more fitting.
The old "rule" was to cut binding 6 times the width of your seam allowance. However, this didn't allow for folds and loft of your binding. If you fold your binding and measure in thirds, then 1/3 should be the width of your seam allowance. Try this and adjust accordingly. Cutting at 2.5" and using a 3/8" seam allowance is a bit too large. 2"-2 1/4 is more fitting.
#15
Originally Posted by Prism99
This Youtube video demo by Leah Day was very helpful for me (2 parts to it).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wprg5vzkuGw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MRfADz_pyg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wprg5vzkuGw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MRfADz_pyg
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fox Valley Wisconsin
Posts: 1,920
I find I have the best success with cutting the binding 2-1/4 wide....and I have done both the sewing to the front and the sewing to the back first methods...if sewing with a straight stitch in the ditch, I will do either method, and if doing decorative stitch, I think it looks best to sew to the back of quilt first.
Most of the time though, I am making quilts to be used and I dont worry about the binding being perfect. I can't do handsewing for that long so no longer can do bindings by hand and am just happy to get the quilts finished.
Most of the time though, I am making quilts to be used and I dont worry about the binding being perfect. I can't do handsewing for that long so no longer can do bindings by hand and am just happy to get the quilts finished.
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Glenmoore, PA
Posts: 7,941
Originally Posted by disijudy
For a quick binding, I like to serge my quilt edge before sewing the binding to the back of the quilt. Turn to the front & stitch just along the edge in thread to match the binding, or do a decorative stitch. I use a 2 1/2" binding. For my best quilts, I still like to sew the binding on the front, burn to the back & hand stitch in place while watching tv programs.
#18
Power Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 12,861
machine stitching the binding to the front, folding it to the back and hand stitching it down with an invisible stitch will solve your problem.
i have in the past 10 years tried a few times to machine stitch the binding on both sides. i don't care what anyone says it always looks like crap! i figure if i'm going to put all the work into making a quilt top and quilting it- it makes no sense to ruin it with a shoddy technique of finishing. you do not save anything, you only make what was good work look poor. sorry...my 2 cents worth...i have never seen a complete machine stitched binding that did not look like a machine stitched binding.
i have in the past 10 years tried a few times to machine stitch the binding on both sides. i don't care what anyone says it always looks like crap! i figure if i'm going to put all the work into making a quilt top and quilting it- it makes no sense to ruin it with a shoddy technique of finishing. you do not save anything, you only make what was good work look poor. sorry...my 2 cents worth...i have never seen a complete machine stitched binding that did not look like a machine stitched binding.
#19
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 15,639
Originally Posted by amma
Have you tried stitching to the back, turning to the front, and using a decorative stitch to sew it down? :D:D:D
Using 2 1/4" strips and a narrow decorative stitch, you can try for the decorative stitching ending up beside the ditch on the back side.
Using 2 1/4" strips and a narrow decorative stitch, you can try for the decorative stitching ending up beside the ditch on the back side.
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Glenmoore, PA
Posts: 7,941
Originally Posted by ckcowl
machine stitching the binding to the front, folding it to the back and hand stitching it down with an invisible stitch will solve your problem.
i have in the past 10 years tried a few times to machine stitch the binding on both sides. i don't care what anyone says it always looks like crap! i figure if i'm going to put all the work into making a quilt top and quilting it- it makes no sense to ruin it with a shoddy technique of finishing. you do not save anything, you only make what was good work look poor. sorry...my 2 cents worth...i have never seen a complete machine stitched binding that did not look like a machine stitched binding.
i have in the past 10 years tried a few times to machine stitch the binding on both sides. i don't care what anyone says it always looks like crap! i figure if i'm going to put all the work into making a quilt top and quilting it- it makes no sense to ruin it with a shoddy technique of finishing. you do not save anything, you only make what was good work look poor. sorry...my 2 cents worth...i have never seen a complete machine stitched binding that did not look like a machine stitched binding.
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