Go Back  Quiltingboard Forums > Main
Perfect Points? >

Perfect Points?

Perfect Points?

Old 09-21-2021, 12:51 PM
  #11  
Super Member
 
EasyPeezy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,369
Default

Your points look good to me. I don't stress over my points.
They fall where they fall. I trim using bloc loc for FG and HST's.
If it's slightly off I don't redo. I redo only if I'm way off.
Otherwise, once the quilt is done and washed nobody will notice.
Unless the quilt is for show then that's another story.
EasyPeezy is offline  
Old 09-21-2021, 12:58 PM
  #12  
Power Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern USA
Posts: 13,707
Default

If I have a lot of points cut off in a quilt I name it Point Taken.
I'm up to Point Taken #3.
Onebyone is offline  
Old 09-21-2021, 01:38 PM
  #13  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,743
Default

Have you tried alignment pinning? That's what I use when I want really good points.

Here is how I do alignment pinning.
1) Pick up the bottom piece to be joined and put a pin in through the back to the front exactly where you want the seam to be at the point in question.
2) Pick up the top piece and put the tip of the pin (from step 1) in through the front to the back, again exactly where you want the seam. Take you time here and look carefully at where the pin is in each piece to make sure it spot on.
3) Push the two pieces all the way together and position them so they are in the middle of the pin. Make sure the pin is perpendicular to the pieces, not tilted to any side.
4) Use a washable marking pen/pencil to mark 1/4" of the sewing line coming up to the pin.
5) Pin on either side of the alignment pin, about 1/4" from the alignment pin. Make sure the alignment pin stays perpendicular to the pieces during the pinning process here. (Sometimes it's hard to avoid a little skewing of the pin, but a lot of skewing shows that pieces have moved out the positioning you want.) Remove the alignment pin.
6) Sew slowly when you get near the critical area; sometimes using the hand wheel is the only way to get the control needed, especially if there are a lot of layers due to many seams. You may need to sew 1-4 threads to the right of the marked line (step 4) to avoid cutting tips of points off. How much to right depends on the number of layers involved. Be prepared for a bit of experimentation here when you first try the method; you may to experiment with some scrap fabric first to get the exact feel for how to get the exact right placement of the seam.

Using the above method allowed me to get really precise points for a big Lone Star quilt, but I did still have to occasionally rip and resew some seams.
platyhiker is offline  
Old 09-21-2021, 01:39 PM
  #14  
Power Poster
 
dunster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lake Elsinore, CA
Posts: 14,470
Default

Okay, now you're just showing off. If those aren't perfect then they're pretty dang good.
dunster is offline  
Old 09-21-2021, 03:03 PM
  #15  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Southern USA
Posts: 1,186
Default

Originally Posted by Onebyone View Post
If I have a lot of points cut off in a quilt I name it Point Taken.
I'm up to Point Taken #3.
I needed a laugh today, thanks
toogie is offline  
Old 09-21-2021, 04:40 PM
  #16  
Super Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,308
Default

Originally Posted by dunster View Post
Okay, now you're just showing off. If those aren't perfect then they're pretty dang good.
I'm not trying to show off. I really am frustrated that the points aren't coming together exactly with each other. Sometimes it doesn't matter but sometimes it really needs to be pretty darn perfect. To get things as good as I could, I was taking out my seams about every other one. Yes, it's looking a lot better now but there has to be a way that I'm not sewing everything twice or more. (The more I take things apart, the worse it gets)

I'm going to try some of the methods I'm reading about. I don't want to avoid quilt blocks with points to match but it took me a day and a half to make this block. The person on the website said it took her and hour and a half. I'm obviously doing something wrong and can use some advice. I appreciate every suggestion.

I hope Bearisgrey is right and the quilting will hide some of the imperfections.
nanna-up-north is offline  
Old 09-21-2021, 07:25 PM
  #17  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Kissimmee, FL
Posts: 1,413
Default

Cluckclucksew.com


No points star. Free patterns
annt59 is offline  
Old 09-22-2021, 02:26 AM
  #18  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Southern Minnesota
Posts: 4,304
Default

Your piecing looks great. Don't be hard on yourself, and keep on going!
liking quilting is offline  
Old 09-22-2021, 03:06 AM
  #19  
Super Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 5,490
Default

First, I didn't notice any missing points in your block either! I think it's very well done.

That said, I also agree with platyhiker's pinning suggestion (except I do the alignment pin in reverse - start with top piece then do the bottom piece). I do not mark the 1/4" seam line but do put stabilizing pins about 1/4" on both sides of the stabilizing pin. Another trick you might try is if your 1/4" seam is great and consistent on any given unit in the block, when getting to the 'point' of said unit, stitch 1-2 thread widths into your seam allowance over that specific intersection. Your point should show up and no one will ever notice that you seam 'wiggled' a thread or 2 in any given spot.
NJ Quilter is offline  
Old 09-22-2021, 03:24 AM
  #20  
Power Poster
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: MN
Posts: 23,693
Default

Originally Posted by NJ Quilter View Post
First, I didn't notice any missing points in your block either! I think it's very well done.

That said, I also agree with platyhiker's pinning suggestion (except I do the alignment pin in reverse - start with top piece then do the bottom piece). I do not mark the 1/4" seam line but do put stabilizing pins about 1/4" on both sides of the stabilizing pin. Another trick you might try is if your 1/4" seam is great and consistent on any given unit in the block, when getting to the 'point' of said unit, stitch 1-2 thread widths into your seam allowance over that specific intersection. Your point should show up and no one will ever notice that you seam 'wiggled' a thread or 2 in any given spot.
narrowing the seam allowance by the points gives the extra fabric bulk by the points "room" to lay flatter.
bearisgray is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


FREE Quilting Newsletter


SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.