Piecing batting
#11
When I make a rag quilt or a Cathedral Window I like to put the batting in the center of the square at the very beginning. That way I can use smaller pieces and my quilt is completed much faster. I use light and natural batting so when I make a log cabin quilt, I sew the fabric directly to the batt. When I sew the squares together, I trim the batting so it isn't overlapping. Then I just tie the quilt after putting the backing on.
#12
I prefer EASY!
I use a very light weight fusable interfacing, like what we sometimes used for garment making. Cut it into strips, 2-3" wide. Lay the edges of the batting together, use the IRON to fuse them together. No wrestling under the machine! When you have an available 40% off coupon, you can get yards of this for about $.60 per yard. Great stuff to have around.
I also use the light weight fusable interfacing as a stabilizer for t-shirt quilts - iron a piece bigger than what your final square will be, then trim shirt and fusable to the correct size.
I use a very light weight fusable interfacing, like what we sometimes used for garment making. Cut it into strips, 2-3" wide. Lay the edges of the batting together, use the IRON to fuse them together. No wrestling under the machine! When you have an available 40% off coupon, you can get yards of this for about $.60 per yard. Great stuff to have around.
I also use the light weight fusable interfacing as a stabilizer for t-shirt quilts - iron a piece bigger than what your final square will be, then trim shirt and fusable to the correct size.
#14
Originally Posted by Shelley
I prefer EASY!
I use a very light weight fusable interfacing, like what we sometimes used for garment making. Cut it into strips, 2-3" wide. Lay the edges of the batting together, use the IRON to fuse them together. No wrestling under the machine! When you have an available 40% off coupon, you can get yards of this for about $.60 per yard. Great stuff to have around.
I also use the light weight fusable interfacing as a stabilizer for t-shirt quilts - iron a piece bigger than what your final square will be, then trim shirt and fusable to the correct size.
I use a very light weight fusable interfacing, like what we sometimes used for garment making. Cut it into strips, 2-3" wide. Lay the edges of the batting together, use the IRON to fuse them together. No wrestling under the machine! When you have an available 40% off coupon, you can get yards of this for about $.60 per yard. Great stuff to have around.
I also use the light weight fusable interfacing as a stabilizer for t-shirt quilts - iron a piece bigger than what your final square will be, then trim shirt and fusable to the correct size.
#15
Originally Posted by Shelley
I prefer EASY!
I use a very light weight fusable interfacing, like what we sometimes used for garment making. Cut it into strips, 2-3" wide. Lay the edges of the batting together, use the IRON to fuse them together. No wrestling under the machine! When you have an available 40% off coupon, you can get yards of this for about $.60 per yard. Great stuff to have around.
I also use the light weight fusable interfacing as a stabilizer for t-shirt quilts - iron a piece bigger than what your final square will be, then trim shirt and fusable to the correct size.
I use a very light weight fusable interfacing, like what we sometimes used for garment making. Cut it into strips, 2-3" wide. Lay the edges of the batting together, use the IRON to fuse them together. No wrestling under the machine! When you have an available 40% off coupon, you can get yards of this for about $.60 per yard. Great stuff to have around.
I also use the light weight fusable interfacing as a stabilizer for t-shirt quilts - iron a piece bigger than what your final square will be, then trim shirt and fusable to the correct size.
#17
Well, I have always 3-step zigzagged my pieced battings. How clever to iron them!!
I use the 3 step zigzag because it seems to hold a little better for me when I pull the batting taut to baste the quilt sandwich. I try to kind of wave my stitch a teeny bit so that sometimes one half gets the extra stitch and sometimes the other half gets it. I have never had a problem with doing it this way.
I use the 3 step zigzag because it seems to hold a little better for me when I pull the batting taut to baste the quilt sandwich. I try to kind of wave my stitch a teeny bit so that sometimes one half gets the extra stitch and sometimes the other half gets it. I have never had a problem with doing it this way.
#18
Originally Posted by Shelley
I prefer EASY!
I use a very light weight fusable interfacing, like what we sometimes used for garment making. Cut it into strips, 2-3" wide. Lay the edges of the batting together, use the IRON to fuse them together. No wrestling under the machine! When you have an available 40% off coupon, you can get yards of this for about $.60 per yard. Great stuff to have around.
I also use the light weight fusable interfacing as a stabilizer for t-shirt quilts - iron a piece bigger than what your final square will be, then trim shirt and fusable to the correct size.
I use a very light weight fusable interfacing, like what we sometimes used for garment making. Cut it into strips, 2-3" wide. Lay the edges of the batting together, use the IRON to fuse them together. No wrestling under the machine! When you have an available 40% off coupon, you can get yards of this for about $.60 per yard. Great stuff to have around.
I also use the light weight fusable interfacing as a stabilizer for t-shirt quilts - iron a piece bigger than what your final square will be, then trim shirt and fusable to the correct size.
#19
Originally Posted by sewjoyce
Yes, I piece batting all the time. Butt up two pieces under your sewing machine foot and zig-zag away.....that way your "seam" will be flat and once it's in a quilt, no one will ever know :D
#20
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Central PA
Posts: 3,736
Originally Posted by Shelley
I prefer EASY!
I use a very light weight fusable interfacing, like what we sometimes used for garment making. Cut it into strips, 2-3" wide. Lay the edges of the batting together, use the IRON to fuse them together. No wrestling under the machine! When you have an available 40% off coupon, you can get yards of this for about $.60 per yard. Great stuff to have around.
I also use the light weight fusable interfacing as a stabilizer for t-shirt quilts - iron a piece bigger than what your final square will be, then trim shirt and fusable to the correct size.
I use a very light weight fusable interfacing, like what we sometimes used for garment making. Cut it into strips, 2-3" wide. Lay the edges of the batting together, use the IRON to fuse them together. No wrestling under the machine! When you have an available 40% off coupon, you can get yards of this for about $.60 per yard. Great stuff to have around.
I also use the light weight fusable interfacing as a stabilizer for t-shirt quilts - iron a piece bigger than what your final square will be, then trim shirt and fusable to the correct size.
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