Piecing. What am I doing wrong?
02-21-2013, 05:56 AM
#31
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 2,879
Be sure to use the same ruler when you cut your fabric, and always line it up the same place on the line . My ruler has a yellow line and I have to line the fabric up at the same place ( i generally have it more to the right side of the line, especially with small pieces, or that little bit off compounds itself as you work. Remember that the width of the fabric has some stretch ( not as much as bias , but more than the length), so you might be pulling your fabric just a little when you sew. And the tiniest little bit off in the first pieces compounds itself as you go along, so be sure to make the first seams match, and correct as you go, not saving any correction for the end. It always seems to me like when they say that the flap of a butterfly's wings affects weather around the world. Just a little bit off anywhere can affect the accuracy of your piecing throughout the whole piece.
02-21-2013, 06:14 AM
#33
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,148
I would recommend to beginner quilters to watch Eleanor Burns and/or buy her books. She is a wonderful teacher and has a really good method of quilting that makes things go faster and easier.
Heres a tip for sewing two patches together that I learned from Liz Porter when she made an appearance on the F&P show recently: Align your patches and make sure that the seam allowance on the back of the patch is going up toward the needle instead of down toward you. The feed dogs will push the seams together and your seams will match every time. Just make sure you have them together before sewing and let the machine do the rest. Works every time for me. I hope that makes sense. You might just have to make a sample 4-patch to see what I mean. Gina
Heres a tip for sewing two patches together that I learned from Liz Porter when she made an appearance on the F&P show recently: Align your patches and make sure that the seam allowance on the back of the patch is going up toward the needle instead of down toward you. The feed dogs will push the seams together and your seams will match every time. Just make sure you have them together before sewing and let the machine do the rest. Works every time for me. I hope that makes sense. You might just have to make a sample 4-patch to see what I mean. Gina
Also remenber There is not one right way of doing things. No quilt police here. Also we are our own worst critics!!!
02-21-2013, 06:16 AM
#34
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Carroll, Iowa
Posts: 4,005
I have the same problems with my seams not matching. I read somewhere to use the elmers glue method. Just a little dot of glue at the seam, no pins but at the beginning and end. My seams are so much better now. Sure, its an extra step but I usually have my iron on anyway and it works for me.
Suz in Iowa
Suz in Iowa
02-21-2013, 06:55 AM
#35
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: at the foot of the Ouichita Mountains, SE Oklahoma
Posts: 273
I had the 'too long' problem when I was adding a border to my great granddaughter's quilt. It was a border so I just started stitching and it wound up waaaayyy too long. Ripped out the stitches...pinned it and it was the perfect length....so...pinning...that's the lesson I learned.
02-21-2013, 07:22 AM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 727
When I first started quilting I had the same problem. I (eventually, lol) discovered that as I got to the end of the block I was piecing I let the fabric slip, ever so slightly, to one side and it ended up squint. Then, when I went to put the blocks together, everything would be 'off' just that little bit. Now that I mostly chain piece (and pay more attention to the end of stitching), my blocks are much better.
Also, someone told me, once you've nested your seams, to pin at a 45 degree angle, rather than 90 degree and leave the pin in until the foot is just on it before removing. This has worked for me.
(I don't leave pins in any more - all I'm saying is - I'm glad I wear glasses for close work
)
Good luck!
Also, someone told me, once you've nested your seams, to pin at a 45 degree angle, rather than 90 degree and leave the pin in until the foot is just on it before removing. This has worked for me.
(I don't leave pins in any more - all I'm saying is - I'm glad I wear glasses for close work
)Good luck!
02-21-2013, 08:14 AM
#39
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 3,025
Once I got in the habit of setting my needle at the same number and using the outside edge of the presser foot for a guide I was much more consistent in my seam width. I usually sew a 'scant' 1/4" and as long as I stay at that width I come out okay. One of the things I try to remember is whatever width seam you start with - finish with. Also, your pressing can be a problem, not getting seams flat, or stretching or whatever. I use a lot of starch and try to remember to PRESS, not IRON, before trimming my blocks.
02-21-2013, 08:20 AM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: SW TN
Posts: 592
I have recently purchased a quarter inch pressure foot. This has worked wonders in helping me to match seams (still nest, pin etc) and my blocks come out to the size they are supposed to be ..... IF I cut accurately to being with.
I also use Washable Elmer's Glue to match up seams if it is a stubborn seam. This allows you to glue, press to set, and open up to see if it matches. It can be repositioned if necessary.
I have recently started sewing just over the seam to make sure it matches before sewing the entire seam. Saves time in rippin' if it doesn't match.
I also use Washable Elmer's Glue to match up seams if it is a stubborn seam. This allows you to glue, press to set, and open up to see if it matches. It can be repositioned if necessary.
I have recently started sewing just over the seam to make sure it matches before sewing the entire seam. Saves time in rippin' if it doesn't match.
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