ladyg

Have any of you did the on point quilts? I want to do some embroidery blocks and use them to make my quilt.But I don't know if it would be to thick or heavy after I use stablizer for the embroidery then the interfacing for the top.

dunster

I'm a little confused about the connection between on point and interfacing. You don't need to use interfacing in order to set blocks on point. Am I missing something?

PaperPrincess

I don't get the connection with the interfacing either. Do you mean batting? Is this a special quilt pattern? If so, can you provide a link?
You can certainly embroider fabric and use it in a quilt. I usually use a light weight tear away, and choose designs that are not too dense.

nativetexan

embroidery blocks is what she wants to use. I think they would be just fine. I've seen many quilts with embroidery blocks and i doubt being on point would not work as well as being set in straight rows. you might have to quilt within the blocks some. depends on your batting and the spacing it says you must quilt. good luck.

ladyg

I'll try to explainabout on point.Crooked Nickel.com shows putting the blocks in the fusible interfacing.They use quilters #821 quilting interfacing.I hope that explains it better or you can go to the website.I probably will try and use some tear away for my embroidery block then I can iron it to the flusible to make the top.

Lisa_wanna_b_quilter

OK. I watched the video. It looks pretty cool to me. I don't see why you couldn't use embroidered squares. Like you said, if you use tear away stabilier it should be fine. I've never seen this before. Thanks for sharing.

dunster

OK, now I get it. You can certainly use the product that the web site sells, but most on point quilts are made without interfacing. The interfacing does add some bulk/weight, but I don't have any experience with it so don't know how much.

Jan in VA

(I haven't checked the link you gave as my internet data allotment is almost used up.)

But, when I do redwork I use a very thin fusible interfacing on the back of the block BEFORE I do the redwork. It helps to hide anything you wish not to show. The weight of the fusible is thin enough that it makes the blocks just a bit 'sturdier'.

When cutting the setting triangles for an on point quilt, I cut squares in such a way that I am certain the outside edges of the quilt are on the straight grain of the fabric. AND I cut those squares larger than they need to be so that I can float the blocks and not lose my points in the seams of the borders. I have a tute in pdf. format that I will be happy to share with you if you will PM me with your regular email addy.

Jan in VA

Jingle

I have not used embroidered square. I have made lots of quilts with on point squares, am getting ready to quilt another this weekend. I don't use any interfacing on them. I hope you can get it figured out.

GrannieAnnie

There is nothing hard or scary or difficult or special about setting blocks on point. What it amounts to is setting blocks in a row, then laying the ROWs out starting from lower left to upper right. You do need to make a sketch of your squares------------and the simplest way to do that is to line them up in rows and columns, then turn your sketch so that the corners run left to right and top to bottom. Rows will vary in length. Then you can finish the quilt out leaving the edge points as they are, or you can add triangles to each row to end up with straight sides.