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Originally Posted by Joe
Did the lady in the video sew her binding together before attaching it so it was double thick or just folded it over and attached the raw edges first?
It's true that bias binding should (theoretically, at least) be more durable than straight-grain binding. However, double-fold straight-grain binding is so durable most of us will never know the difference. As another poster pointed out, bias binding is done double-fold also. Either type of double-fold binding is going to be very, very durable. Single-fold binding is not nearly as durable and is used more often on clothing than on quilts. The problem with bias binding is that it is tricky to work with. It has a tendency to distort as you work with it, causing incompatible "ripples" in the binding. Starching heavily before cutting helps a lot, but it is still harder to apply than straight-grain. I do advise starching fabric heavily before cutting straight-grain bindings also; it is the ounce of extra work that prevents a lot of problems while you are sewing the binding on. For your first binding application, you will have enough to do getting the mitering right; you don't need the added challenge of working with bias! |
Originally Posted by Prism99
Originally Posted by Joe
Did the lady in the video sew her binding together before attaching it so it was double thick or just folded it over and attached the raw edges first?
It's true that bias binding should (theoretically, at least) be more durable than straight-grain binding. However, double-fold straight-grain binding is so durable most of us will never know the difference. As another poster pointed out, bias binding is done double-fold also. Either type of double-fold binding is going to be very, very durable. Single-fold binding is not nearly as durable and is used more often on clothing than on quilts. The problem with bias binding is that it is tricky to work with. It has a tendency to distort as you work with it, causing incompatible "ripples" in the binding. Starching heavily before cutting helps a lot, but it is still harder to apply than straight-grain. I do advise starching fabric heavily before cutting straight-grain bindings also; it is the ounce of extra work that prevents a lot of problems while you are sewing the binding on. For your first binding application, you will have enough to do getting the mitering right; you don't need the added challenge of working with bias! |
Originally Posted by Prism99
[For your first binding application, you will have enough to do getting the mitering right; you don't need the added challenge of working with bias!
LOL when I made my first quilt I didn't know any better. The book gave instructions for bias double fold binding with mitered corners and I just did what the instructions said. Sure glad I didn't know then that it was so troublesome. I have since done straight grain binding only because it is easier to cut the strips. I didn't find working with bias binding any more troublesome then straight grain. What I found a complete PITA was the cutting a square, cutting in half on diagonal, making the parallelogram, marking the cutting lines, lining up the lines to sew the off set tube and cutting it out. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: |
Originally Posted by Prism99
Originally Posted by Joe
Did the lady in the video sew her binding together before attaching it so it was double thick or just folded it over and attached the raw edges first?
It's true that bias binding should (theoretically, at least) be more durable than straight-grain binding. However, double-fold straight-grain binding is so durable most of us will never know the difference. As another poster pointed out, bias binding is done double-fold also. Either type of double-fold binding is going to be very, very durable. Single-fold binding is not nearly as durable and is used more often on clothing than on quilts. The problem with bias binding is that it is tricky to work with. It has a tendency to distort as you work with it, causing incompatible "ripples" in the binding. Starching heavily before cutting helps a lot, but it is still harder to apply than straight-grain. I do advise starching fabric heavily before cutting straight-grain bindings also; it is the ounce of extra work that prevents a lot of problems while you are sewing the binding on. For your first binding application, you will have enough to do getting the mitering right; you don't need the added challenge of working with bias! |
I cut binding 3 1/2" wide strips running selvedge to selvedge of fabric,
then do a 45 degree piecing to get needed length around perimeter of your quilt. Then stitch to top of quilt edges, following mitre instructions for corners, and hand stitch on backing side. OR stitch to backing side, then machine stitch down on top side. Especially easy if using a Walking Foot attachment. |
Forgot to mention: fold your binding strip in half, press, and when
sewing to top, stitch by machine on the raw edge of binding. You will hand or machine stitch the folded edge. |
let us know how you get along with your binding
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wow, 3 1/2" binding? that is HUGE!!! i've never seen a quilt with a binding that 'thick'...it seems like it would look like an extra border on the back if you machine stitch it to the front then fold over to the back...i thought my 2 1/2" ones were too big (someone told me once...real quilters make their bindings as narrow as possible...guess i will never be a 'real-quilter') but i have started making mine just 2" unless it is a very thick batting/fabric sandwich...then i stick with 2 1/4" or 2 1/2"...
i would love to see pictures using such a large one, to see how it plays in with the whole quilt design ;) always finding out new things on here... |
All of my quilts have been recatangular (or square) so I have not had the need to use bias binding. All of them have been bound using a strip of continuous fabric (sewn together strips that end up long enough to go around the entire quilt). I fold this in half (wrong sides together) and press. There are plenty of tutorials on how to attach this with a mitered corner. My favorite quilt (made in 1990) is finally starting to show a little wear but it is well used and washed a lot. If I want to, I can replace the binding.
If you use bias - be careful when you press. Bias tends to distort and stretch a lot. |
I've heard a lot of folks on the board talk about only one size of binding. I was taught that binding width should be determined by the nature of each project. I was taught that the finished binding should be the final frame to the composition therefore, if I'm doing a minature/very small quilt, I'd probably want to do a very small binding so it wouldn't overwhelm the quilt - that might be binding finished at one quarter inch or even less if I"m really careful. A larger project can handle a bigger finished binding. My normal finished binding is about 3/8 inch, for which I cut a strip 3 inches wide...I might used a larger finished binding if I want that look on the finished project.
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