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Thread: Binding. A couple questions

  1. #1
    Joe
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    I'm pretty sure I'm going to use bias binding to bind my quilt. This is my first time using a separate binding the only other quilt I made i folded over the back. Anyway I've got a book that recommends ironing it as I cut it. Sounds reasonable. Before I attach it should I iron the 1/4" seams and the middle fold before I try to attach it. I'm pretty lost anybody got a good link? Thanks

  2. #2
    Super Member virtualbernie's Avatar
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    I just iron the middle fold. You sew 1/4 inch to the quilt then fold it over.

  3. #3
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    I think that you iron the 1/4 inch on each side if you are going to sew it all at once front and back which would require an excess amount of pinning to be sure it is caught top and bottom. I am sure that a more experienced quilter will have the link that you are requesting.

  4. #4
    Joe
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    Quote Originally Posted by virtualbernie
    I just iron the middle fold. You sew 1/4 inch to the quilt then fold it over.
    That makes sense. I'm just so nervous. I've got so much work in it right now I'd hate to mess it up now.

  5. #5
    Senior Member FranW's Avatar
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    If you go to the search feature at the top and type in "attaching a binding", quite a few links come up. Usually I cut the strips 2.5" wide, fold in half, sew to the front, and hand stitch to the back. Good Luck!

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    sounds like you're talking about a single thickness binding ..if so, and want to stitch both sides at once...well, I wouldn't, because I'd never catch them both in one row of stitches. I'd press under one side by one quarter inch, then stitch the unpressed side to the front. Once it's sewn on I'd turn the fabric around the edge of the quilt and pin then stitch the back side in place. Many folks sew it by hand and many sew it by machine....your choice.

    In my experience, a double thickness binding will last longer, in case you're putting it on a quilt that will get used a lot. The fabric strip is cut wider, pressed in half lengthwise, raw edges stitched onto front, folded around edge then stitched onto the back.

    More details on either process if you need them from many folks on the board.

  7. #7
    Super Member cwessel47's Avatar
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    I iron 1/4" on one side, sew unpressed side to front and hand stitch on the back. ktbb and virtualbernie have got the right (my!) information on double fold binding. With you being a new quilter, I would never suggest you try the "sew front and back at once" idea. I only do that with very small projects and usually have to refer to Mr. Seam-ripper in that case. Funny how it's Mr. and not Mrs/Ms. Seam-ripper. Good luck in your projects.

  8. #8
    Power Poster Prism99's Avatar
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    Is there a specific reason why you want to use bias binding? I use bias only if the design of the fabric requires it (for example, I want spiralling stripes on the binding) or if the edge to be bound is curved. Otherwise it is much easier to apply straight-grain binding. If this is your first experience with binding, I highly recommend working with straight-grain binding before tackling bias binding.

    I always starch fabric heavily before cutting bias strips for binding. This stabilizes the fabric so you get more accurate cuts and so the binding doesn't stretch out of shape as you manipulate it. You can also starch before doing straight-grain binding, but it is not as necessary.

    Most people use double-fold binding on quilts. The double layer of fabric helps the binding last longer. Usually the strips are cut 2.5 inches wide. You iron the raw edges together, right sides out, so you have a double layer of fabric.

    Here is a link to a Youtube video that shows how to do a double-fold binding entirely by machine. If you want to finish with the more traditional hand sewing, the technique is very similar. Just look for other Youtube videos to help you out.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wprg5...os=nZMmElf218o

  9. #9
    Joe
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    I was going to use bias binding because I've heard its more durable. But if I use a double binding then a straight grain binding will probably be fine. I was always thinking about attaching one side and folding over. Did the lady in the video sew her binding together before attaching it so it was double thick or just folded it over and attached the raw edges first?

  10. #10
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    i still make a double fold when i do a bias binding.

  11. #11
    Power Poster Prism99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe
    Did the lady in the video sew her binding together before attaching it so it was double thick or just folded it over and attached the raw edges first?
    It is not sewn together first. The strip is just ironed in half, so one side has a fold and the other has both raw edges.

    It's true that bias binding should (theoretically, at least) be more durable than straight-grain binding. However, double-fold straight-grain binding is so durable most of us will never know the difference. As another poster pointed out, bias binding is done double-fold also. Either type of double-fold binding is going to be very, very durable. Single-fold binding is not nearly as durable and is used more often on clothing than on quilts.

    The problem with bias binding is that it is tricky to work with. It has a tendency to distort as you work with it, causing incompatible "ripples" in the binding. Starching heavily before cutting helps a lot, but it is still harder to apply than straight-grain. I do advise starching fabric heavily before cutting straight-grain bindings also; it is the ounce of extra work that prevents a lot of problems while you are sewing the binding on.

    For your first binding application, you will have enough to do getting the mitering right; you don't need the added challenge of working with bias!

  12. #12
    Junior Member merridancer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prism99
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe
    Did the lady in the video sew her binding together before attaching it so it was double thick or just folded it over and attached the raw edges first?
    It is not sewn together first. The strip is just ironed in half, so one side has a fold and the other has both raw edges.

    It's true that bias binding should (theoretically, at least) be more durable than straight-grain binding. However, double-fold straight-grain binding is so durable most of us will never know the difference. As another poster pointed out, bias binding is done double-fold also. Either type of double-fold binding is going to be very, very durable. Single-fold binding is not nearly as durable and is used more often on clothing than on quilts.

    The problem with bias binding is that it is tricky to work with. It has a tendency to distort as you work with it, causing incompatible "ripples" in the binding. Starching heavily before cutting helps a lot, but it is still harder to apply than straight-grain. I do advise starching fabric heavily before cutting straight-grain bindings also; it is the ounce of extra work that prevents a lot of problems while you are sewing the binding on.

    For your first binding application, you will have enough to do getting the mitering right; you don't need the added challenge of working with bias!
    Ditto

  13. #13
    Super Member feline fanatic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prism99
    [For your first binding application, you will have enough to do getting the mitering right; you don't need the added challenge of working with bias!

    LOL when I made my first quilt I didn't know any better. The book gave instructions for bias double fold binding with mitered corners and I just did what the instructions said. Sure glad I didn't know then that it was so troublesome. I have since done straight grain binding only because it is easier to cut the strips. I didn't find working with bias binding any more troublesome then straight grain. What I found a complete PITA was the cutting a square, cutting in half on diagonal, making the parallelogram, marking the cutting lines, lining up the lines to sew the off set tube and cutting it out.
    :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

  14. #14
    Super Member virtualbernie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prism99
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe
    Did the lady in the video sew her binding together before attaching it so it was double thick or just folded it over and attached the raw edges first?
    It is not sewn together first. The strip is just ironed in half, so one side has a fold and the other has both raw edges.

    It's true that bias binding should (theoretically, at least) be more durable than straight-grain binding. However, double-fold straight-grain binding is so durable most of us will never know the difference. As another poster pointed out, bias binding is done double-fold also. Either type of double-fold binding is going to be very, very durable. Single-fold binding is not nearly as durable and is used more often on clothing than on quilts.

    The problem with bias binding is that it is tricky to work with. It has a tendency to distort as you work with it, causing incompatible "ripples" in the binding. Starching heavily before cutting helps a lot, but it is still harder to apply than straight-grain. I do advise starching fabric heavily before cutting straight-grain bindings also; it is the ounce of extra work that prevents a lot of problems while you are sewing the binding on.

    For your first binding application, you will have enough to do getting the mitering right; you don't need the added challenge of working with bias!
    I totally agree with everything said! :)

  15. #15
    Super Member QuiltQtrs's Avatar
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    I cut binding 3 1/2" wide strips running selvedge to selvedge of fabric,
    then do a 45 degree piecing to get needed length around perimeter of your
    quilt. Then stitch to top of quilt edges, following mitre instructions for
    corners, and hand stitch on backing side.
    OR stitch to backing side, then machine stitch down on top side.
    Especially easy if using a Walking Foot attachment.

  16. #16
    Super Member QuiltQtrs's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention: fold your binding strip in half, press, and when
    sewing to top, stitch by machine on the raw edge of binding.
    You will hand or machine stitch the folded edge.

  17. #17
    Google Goddess craftybear's Avatar
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    let us know how you get along with your binding

  18. #18
    Power Poster ckcowl's Avatar
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    wow, 3 1/2" binding? that is HUGE!!! i've never seen a quilt with a binding that 'thick'...it seems like it would look like an extra border on the back if you machine stitch it to the front then fold over to the back...i thought my 2 1/2" ones were too big (someone told me once...real quilters make their bindings as narrow as possible...guess i will never be a 'real-quilter') but i have started making mine just 2" unless it is a very thick batting/fabric sandwich...then i stick with 2 1/4" or 2 1/2"...
    i would love to see pictures using such a large one, to see how it plays in with the whole quilt design ;)
    always finding out new things on here...

  19. #19
    Power Poster MadQuilter's Avatar
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    All of my quilts have been recatangular (or square) so I have not had the need to use bias binding. All of them have been bound using a strip of continuous fabric (sewn together strips that end up long enough to go around the entire quilt). I fold this in half (wrong sides together) and press. There are plenty of tutorials on how to attach this with a mitered corner. My favorite quilt (made in 1990) is finally starting to show a little wear but it is well used and washed a lot. If I want to, I can replace the binding.

    If you use bias - be careful when you press. Bias tends to distort and stretch a lot.

  20. #20
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    I've heard a lot of folks on the board talk about only one size of binding. I was taught that binding width should be determined by the nature of each project. I was taught that the finished binding should be the final frame to the composition therefore, if I'm doing a minature/very small quilt, I'd probably want to do a very small binding so it wouldn't overwhelm the quilt - that might be binding finished at one quarter inch or even less if I"m really careful. A larger project can handle a bigger finished binding. My normal finished binding is about 3/8 inch, for which I cut a strip 3 inches wide...I might used a larger finished binding if I want that look on the finished project.

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