If the thread is not metallic, you can use the same gold for the top and the bottom. I do it all the time with free standing lace

Are you using stablizer? some times if you don't use stablizer you won't have the right tension.

I try either matching , clear or a machine bobbin thread... it is lighter wt than normal emb thread... I've had the same probblem before too.

The way my machine works is if I get threads on the top of what I am sewing I need to loosen my tension as the tension is too tight - and I have had to go all the way down to almost 0 with a heavier thread. Guess what is happening is that the thinner thread in the bobbin is just not strong enough to pull that top thread down far enough (and visa versa). You might want to see if you can find a heavier thread to use in the bobbin. Thread tension problems are frustrating aren't they?

use clear thread, add extra stabilizer or use matching thread in the bobbin.

I do the same thing. Sometimes I use a matching color cotton thread but if I don't have anything matching, I will use the same thread as I do on top. I don't like to use rayon thread on the bobbin unless I have to.

Hi...I would try changing your needle...go for either a metalic needle or try a titanium....love titanium needles they solve lots of thread issues....don't know why they just do...also make sure it is big enough

My machine is very fussy about what bobbin thread I use to embroider with. Mine is a brother machine and if I don't use their bobbin thread I end up with that very same problem. Good luck!

Do NOT use metallic thread in the bobbin. It will make a mess.
Is your project hooped tightly?
What kind of stabilizer are you using?
If the purse fabric isn't too stiff, try using that soft drapable type that can be left inside quilts. You can snip it off when you're done if you like or leave it. Metallics don't catch as much on it.
Good luck and let us know what you work out.

I know that you are experienced, after I tell you what I did when this same thing happened to me. After tears, waisted thread, machine in the shop, I even lowered myself to read the machines book. The answer for me? Did you put the Embroidery foot on your machine?