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I need your help with this quilt
Trying to piece quilt top from direction in a old quilt magazine. My first of many mistakes:o
The directions state Sew block together in nine horizontal rows of 7 each My rows do not line up. Should I expect this? Or how do I fix it? I would like to make it into a full size quilt and as you can tell this will not do. How to turn it into a full size quilt. Here it is I have only sewn one row together and would like to figure this out before advancing any further. |
BDawn ~ sorry you are having problems. First a few question ~ What size are the blocks? What size does the pattern say the quilt will be? Are you new to quilting.
I first will assume that your blocks are not the same size, that is a must to have things line up. If you could share pictures that would also help us help you. |
Thank you grammy Dwynn... yes I am new to quilting. Block size is 9 1/2 it did not give a finished size but from picture it looked to be full size. I am going to walk away from computer and come back to try and post picture.
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Now you need to measure the block that you made, did they come up to 9.5 inches (or darn close, we are not perfect)? Also pinning at the 'intersections' is important.
If you cannot post pictures it is not life or death. Just takes more (longer) explanations on you part. In other words you need to give us a paragraph of explaining versus a sentence. ;) |
The blocks are not going to line up unless they are all close to the same size. Measure all your blocks. If they are all within an eight of an inch or so, you are all set, just pin the intersections as you go. If they vary a lot more than that, you have some decisions. One fix is to cut them all down to the size of the smallest block, however, this may impact the patchwork pattern, so you have to be careful. If just some of your blocks are too large or too small, you can unsew those and take a slightly smaller or larger seam.
There are 3 things that make your blocks accurate sizes: 1) accurate cutting and using the same ruler (or at least the same brand of ruler) for your whole project. 2) sewing with an accurate 1/4" seam for your whole project. 3) Careful pressing. You can distort your block if you iron instead of press, or you can press tiny creases where the seams are, which makes the block smaller. |
Did you square up each block to the desired size as you finished it? After pressing and before putting on the design wall.
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Some great ideas here. I've learned to measure my blocks when done and make them all the same size, or near to as possible, using the smallest measuring block as my new measurement. Now my question, does using different rulers on the same project really make a difference? I have a 6 1/2 inch by 24 1/2 inch ruler that I love because of the 6 1/2inch measurement. My Omnigrid is only 6 inches with no 1/2 inch after and I find that a pain. Of course, the 6 1/2 inch ruler I love is a different brand. As long as I have been quilting and quilting with my friends none of of us has heard about using the same brand of ruler through a whole project.
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Originally Posted by Luv Quilts and Cats
(Post 5948083)
Some great ideas here. I've learned to measure my blocks when done and make them all the same size, or near to as possible, using the smallest measuring block as my new measurement. Now my question, does using different rulers on the same project really make a difference? I have a 6 1/2 inch by 24 1/2 inch ruler that I love because of the 6 1/2inch measurement. My Omnigrid is only 6 inches with no 1/2 inch after and I find that a pain. Of course, the 6 1/2 inch ruler I love is a different brand. As long as I have been quilting and quilting with my friends none of of us has heard about using the same brand of ruler through a whole project.
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Assuming your blocks vary in size no more than 1/2", the following should work.
Sew one horizontal row together. Sew the second horizontal row together. Pin the two rows together at each seam. If you get to one that is hugely variant, you can go to the sewing machine and take in a seam simply by sewing a larger seam right next to the seam that is too narrow (you do not have to take the old seam out when you do this). Once you have the two rows pinned together, sew the seam and ease or stretch to make sure the pins match. You probably do not want to have to ease in more than 1/4" per block. A photo would help. Also measuring your blocks and giving us the smallest and largest measurement would help. |
Originally Posted by irishrose
(Post 5948070)
Did you square up each block to the desired size as you finished it? After pressing and before putting on the design wall.
It is better if things are checked as we piece and double check that we have a 1/4" seam. Always press, not iron the seams. |
opps double post :(
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I don't know if anyone mentioned to you that after you pin the blocks seam to seam, notice if one or the other has some fullness to it (meaning is a little bigger). Place that block near the feed dogs. This will help to ease in the fullness. This tip has saved my life many times. I find it especially helpful when applying borders. Good luck and don't give up.
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I don't sew blocks into rows then sew the rows together. It works better for me to sew the blocks into sets of two across. Then flip the top set of two down over the next set of two. The next step is to flip the set of 4 to the right and stitch to the set of 4. Usually there is only one long row to stitch then. Don't know if that makes sense to anyone. I just don't like stitching and matching long rows of blocks.
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Ok, tried to download picture and I just get failure to load to qultingboard.
The quilt is called road to florida that I posted a picture of it on a thread I called road to florida. They are triangles measuring 11 inches ( strips 6 1/2 inch, diamonds 2 inch, triangle 4 1/2) they came together beautifully but after I finish the rows and go to attach it looks like every other row is missing a triangle. the missing space is uniform . I hope this helps and I am not being more confusing. Thank you so very much and I really appreciate all of your advice. |
I should state it is at the end of each second row
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Originally Posted by BDawn
(Post 5947879)
Trying to piece quilt top from direction in a old quilt magazine. My first of many mistakes:o
The directions state Sew block together in nine horizontal rows of 7 each My rows do not line up. Should I expect this? Or how do I fix it? I would like to make it into a full size quilt and as you can tell this will not do. How to turn it into a full size quilt. Here it is I have only sewn one row together and would like to figure this out before advancing any further. Sewing blocks into strips is basic piecing. How else would you sew pieces together? |
Originally Posted by Luv Quilts and Cats
(Post 5948083)
Some great ideas here. I've learned to measure my blocks when done and make them all the same size, or near to as possible, using the smallest measuring block as my new measurement. Now my question, does using different rulers on the same project really make a difference? I have a 6 1/2 inch by 24 1/2 inch ruler that I love because of the 6 1/2inch measurement. My Omnigrid is only 6 inches with no 1/2 inch after and I find that a pain. Of course, the 6 1/2 inch ruler I love is a different brand. As long as I have been quilting and quilting with my friends none of of us has heard about using the same brand of ruler through a whole project.
About rulers-----------I used a Olfa ruler and a June Tailor ruler on the same project-----------about a 1/4" off in a 4 inch piece |
Originally Posted by GrannieAnnie
(Post 5948412)
About rulers-----------I used a Olfa ruler and a June Tailor ruler on the same project-----------about a 1/4" off in a 4 inch piece
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I looked at your other post. To help others understand, you are not making a square block, but a triangle shaped block. It looks like a framed triangle. The center triangle is solid white and it is framed by a long print strip with a solid diamond on each end to form the points of the triangle. These diamonds then form a 6 point star when the blocks are joined together.
I have not made a block like this so I can only offer suggestions. Did you measure each triangle to make sure they were all the same size before you sewed them into rows? Accurate seam allowances will be very important in this block. You will also have to be careful not to stretch the center diamond when you sew as it has bias edges. When sewing together the blocks, make sure you match the point where the corner diamond and the strip are joined, nesting these seams together. You said every other row is missing a triangle at the end of the row. Do you mean the center triangle? Or the amount missing is triangle shaped? |
Are your blocks going to end up on point? You may just be needing a triangle piece at the end of each row to even the edges. Just a guess.
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Oh my goodness, Thank you Cherisews you explained correctly. Everything has been accurate I am very careful to make sure seams stay 1/4 inch. Just seems to be missing a full framed triangle on ends of everyother row
iwillquilt,yes all points are going to end on point. Thank you for your patience and trying to help me. I will try and post picture when I can figure out why quilting board and my Macbook can work together. |
3 Attachment(s)
OMG I just figured out the quilt you are trying to make!!!! I have made it, but I know it as 'Smoothing Iron'.
Also I found the picture of the one you had posted. I need to go back and re-read... but I think what you are missing is some "half" blocks (but not actually one half of a block). |
YEA!!! thank you I really appreciate you posting picture of your quilt it is Beautiful, much prettier than mine. The magazine did not give instructions for end pieces. I think I see what you mean by half blocks.
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http://obsessivelystitching.blogspot...-together.html I just did this and pin, pin, pin.
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Thank you Nativetexan, but my seams are matching up. I think grammyDWynn picture showing me whats wrong I am missing part of instructions it looks like I need half triangles at end of strips or I am hoping so. Will continue to try upload picture.
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I reconsidered my comment and removed it :p
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yep I see that now. i'm so glad you got it figured out. I can see why it would be a problem without the side half pieces. good luck.
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Thank you everyone... I know I sound frustrated and I am. Being this is only the second quilt I have pieced the
Lessons I have learned and learning have been valuable and everyone has been great in taking the time to help a newbie out and much appreciated. |
WOW what a neat quilt.
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Don't we all know that instructions can be incorrect or at least confusing at times! Keep up the good work!!!! The more you quilt the better you will get and the better you get the easier it will be to "fix" problems.
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You are so right and I should have known, that there had to be more to the instructions because it sounded way to simple. It seems to me any time something looks to easy it ends up being more complicated and the more something looks complicated it turns out to be easy:shock:
Problem solved thanks to grammy Dwynn:thumbup: Wish I could send you all a nice piece of chocolate cake for the help. |
I am trying to make my first quilt top and the blocks are set on end. When I finished all the blocks, I wound up having to cut off 1/4", so then my triangle pieces were too big. I went on line and found a site that tells you what size to make the triangles, so I could reduce their size too. This site was very helpful. http://quilting.about.com/od/quiltse...ngtriangls.htm
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Totaly agree. The colour of the markings and if the markings are etched in the ruler make an impact as well. Shadowing can cause problems as well.
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If you are new to quilting, there is a book called perfect piecing published by Rodale and usually very inexpensive on Amazon worth every penny. i\It will take your skill level up to the top.
Pat |
Sorry you are having so many problems with your quilt top. Although I have no exact answer to your question, I find that although I try to sew an exact 1/4" seam, I can waiver a bit. I just finished piecing 42 log cabin blocks for our family's reunion quilt and after each round of sewing, I measured and trimmed where necessary, even if I need to trim only a small sliver of the block. I've been quilting a long time, however, I don't always get a perfect 1/4" seam, but by measuring each block as it is constructed I save a lot of frustration down the road. I may get a little OCD about this, but I seem to get better results. This is just works for me,others may have their own "tricks" to get accurate blocks. Hang in there.
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Thank you Pat, just reviewed perfect piecing on Amazon good price and good reviews. I will be buying this book.
Fortyniner, sorry you had troubles with triangles fitting. Did you finish the Quilt and if so are you pleased with it? I am afraid to trim anything for fear of having trouble down the road. Thank you for the link. bunniequilter... what do you mean by shadowing? |
I found and purchased the Book "Perfect Piecing" at my local "Half Price Bookstore". Don't know if you have those in Mo. We have a just few in Ia.
Maybe I will be doing some additional reading and rereading. |
shadowing to me means having a dark seam show through a light fabric.
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What is the name of this quilt pattern? It is fabulous.
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Originally Posted by mommafank
(Post 5951538)
What is the name of this quilt pattern? It is fabulous.
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