Just can't get it
 

I know, I know. Lots of threads on 1/4" seams but I just can't get it. I am in a class where we are doing 6" blocks with lots of pieces, so that 1/4" is very important. After fiddling around for hours, I think the mistake is in my cutting. Here's the question. When placing your ruler on the material, is the line on the ruler on the right or left of the material. The width of the line on the ruler could be the amount I am off. For a 6 1/2 unfinished block, I am off almost a 1/4". I am frustrated and any help would be appreciated.

A 6 1/2 unfinished block should have a 14" seam on all sides to create a 6" finished block. There are many videos on cutting fabric. Craftsy.com has videos I'm not good at explaining better to look.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]562071[/ATTACH]I use Omni grid rulers and they have a nice thin black line. I keep the line ON the fabric and cut on the ruler edge. Here it is as if I was going to cut a 1 inch strip off this peach sample.

I have found that which side of the line to use depends on the ruler, but typically it is the near side (side closest to your rotary blade) rather than the far side. I try to choose rulers with the thinnest lines to avoid this problem.

Where you place the ruler (right/left/center) of the printed line depends on the brand of ruler. The olfa rulers with the wider yellow lines may be more difficult. Creative grids has a thinner line, but some find the markings confusing. Olfa has a newer line of rulers, Olfa Frosted. Very simple, thin lines.
also, if possible, you need to use the same ruler, or at least the same brand of ruler for your entire project.
Finally, don't know how you were determining your quarter inch seam. here's a link to a common method:http://www.quiltingboard.com/tutoria...ce-t89997.html

Thank you all. I m going to my sewing room to try again. Wish me luck. I only use Omni grids for rulers unless the are speciality rulers.

Thank you for asking the question! I had the same concerns so then I decided to place the fabric on the line of the ruler, so I include it like Tartan shows. Thanks again

Why don't you use a scrap and cut a few different squares (use the 2" so you don't waste a lot). Pay attention to where the line is, cut, and then measure the piece you cut.
I also use the yellow/black rulers and have my eye trained to read the black line on the fabric edge.

Make sure to also sew a trial piece and measure before and after pressing. A lot of times we have correct seams but press some of fabric down instead of open.

It's great that you challenge yourself to do it correctly from the start. Once you get the magic combination, you'll be flying through those projects.

this is the way i have measured forever :). i have rulers i've bought at fabric shops in recent years, as i did more miniatures, but the majority of my rulers are from yard sales & are of nearly every brand. in all of them i use the 'center' of the main black line as demonstrated in photo above. nearly all brands of rulers have breaks somewhere in the main line that i use to line up on for my cut. i also measure seam allowance frequently while making blocks to insure i have scant 1/4" seams. as the size of my quilts have diminished, i have learned, the hard way :(, that accurate seam allowance are more than important in getting the desired results in finished blocks & finished quilt tops.

Are you 1/4" too small? Or 1/4" too big? Remember that finished size is a *combination* of cutting and sewing. If your blocks are 1/4" too small, it means you are cutting your pieces too small, sewing the seam allowance too large, or some combination of both. If your blocks are 1/4" too big, you are cutting your pieces too large, taking too small of a seam allowance, or some combination of both.

Have you actually done the strip test? That is the easiest way to figure out how to adjust your cutting and seam allowance. I think a link was posted earlier in this thread. It means cutting 3 strips 2-1/2" wide, sewing them together, pressing, then measuring. Until that measurement comes out to 6-1/2" exactly, you do not want to be attempting complicated blocks with lots of seam allowances.

What brand of ruler are you using? I have found some variations in rulers -- not only in line thickness (as others have mentioned, thin lines on a ruler are easier to use than thick lines), but also in accuracy. In other words, some rulers cut a slightly wider strip than other rulers. Line placement when you cut really depends on the trial-and-error method of working with 3 strips, depending on which brand of ruler you are using.

I am not an expert at anything but knowing how to find answers. "The Art of Machine Piecing" by Sally Collins is one of the best references I have ever come across. I am a bookaholic and most of my quilt books strongly suggest you sew a test sample like what madquilter suggests, and PaperPrincess sent you a link to. Seams Sew Precise is a small template with seams marked all the way from scant 1/4" up to 1" with small holes to line up the needle for placing a stick'em guide on the needle plate. I like to use it and Bonnie Hunter's credit card set-up to make a guide that I tape to the machine. I wish you success and joy with your stitching journey.

Also, along with the other comments about rulers and cutting, I have to say that when I started using a different, thinner bobbin thread, my own blocks were much more accurate. Why? Because you can press the seams flatter with a thinner thread. I use either The Bottom Line by Superior Threads or Guttermann bobbin thread. Guttermann is available at Jo-Ann's. The slight extra cost is more than worth it when I am not encountering hours of frustration when blocks or their sub-units are too small.

I second JenniePenny's recommend about using fine thread. My blocks are more accurate since I switched to Aurifil 50-wt cotton thread. It is much more difficult for me to be precise when using regular 3-ply thread.

I guess I'm less concerned w/ the exact measurement, as long as i'm consistent. That means cutting the pieces using the same ruler, using the same thread, same machine and using the same mark for my 1/4" My blocks always go together nicely and my quilts turn out great.

Now - an exception would be if i was making blocks for a block exchange, then precision is a necessity.

[QUOTE=Prism99;7697957]

Have you actually done the strip test? That is the easiest way to figure out how to adjust your cutting and seam allowance. I think a link was posted earlier in this thread. It means cutting 3 strips 2-1/2" wide, sewing them together, pressing, then measuring. Until that measurement comes out to 6-1/2" exactly, you do not want to be attempting complicated blocks with lots of seam allowances.

I too would recommend doing this test.
A lot of instructors say not to use the lines on your cutting board, but I use them all the time.
I place the edge of my fabric on one of the board lines so that the line barely shows.
Now place the ruler so that the 2.5" line is on top of the board line your fabric is against.
All the other lines on your ruler should match up with the board lines - this helps me make a straight cut.
Cut several groups of 2.5" strips, so that you can try different ways.
Sew 3 strips together with what you think is you 1/4" seam. Press it open, it should measure 6.5".
If it is too small adjust your needle to the right to make the seam smaller.
If it is too big, adjust your needle to the left to make the seam larger.
Even the 1/4" foot needs the needle adjusted to different points on different machines.
Good luck!! Ann

I put my ruler line on the outside of the fabric edge. Just that teeny bit of extra is important enough to matter. Honestly I use my Go dies for 99% of all my cuttings. Have you tried sewing pre cut squares (charm pack) together to check your 1/4 seam? I mark my 1/4" on my machine with tape or some other edge at least 4" long. No way I can sew a straight seam without a guide.

I also cut like Tartan does.

When I measure the pieces afterwards, they are a "smidge" larger than the "designated" size.

Example: A nominal "two-inch strip" is actually about 2-1/64 inches wide. It makes the difference between a "regular" 1/4 inch seam and a "scant" 1/4 inch seam.

well marlaclair, all these tips are great, and I've followed them all for 15 years of quilting and was "close enough" but consistent, so my quilts are "fine". But then 2 things happened, I started sharing and swapping blocks on QB and "close enough" is not good enough any more. And the real turning point was making an Elizabeth Hartman Pattern. She pieces blocks that look paper pieced. I made her Fancy Forest Pattern that had over 1800 pieces in a 67" x 97" quilt. I had to be PERFECT all the time. I conquered consistent & accurate cutting (see thin line same brand rulers), consistent and accurate sewing (see credit card technique), consistent results (see sewing and measuring test strips).

BUT, the three techniques that took me over the top to the next level of ever consistent accuracy was:
1) use very thin thread , in top and bobbin like aurifil 50
2) Heavily starch your fabric before you cut it, (you can wash it out later) and
3) Sew on the line and press your seams open

Best of Luck to you, Jane Quilter

I highly recommend Debbie Caffrey's Cut to it class on craftsy. It teaches proper cutting techniques. I have been quilting for many years and learned new things

I feel your pain. finally, I have figured out to keep the line on the ruler just a tad more...just a tad. Try it with scraps. Also, you can check your 1/4" by sewing on an index card. The lines are 1/4" apart. Good luck. I didn't read all the suggestions, but I know your pain.
Edited to add: use thin thread, too...it makes a difference.

I am never real accurate either but I find it I do the same thing everytime and even if it is a little off on each block the only difference is the size of the quilt If it is 2 or 4 inches smaller add a border to it. I am by far not great at piecing. As long as you can square all the blocks to the same size I have had success!

Tartan has it. the black lines are to be used as the target or site or sight where the fabric should line up.

I used to have trouble sewing 1/4 inch, and I finally figured out it was the 1/4 inch foot I was using. I was using the foot with the little piece of metal hanging down. In hindsight, I think I was jamming the fabric up agains that too much, causing a slightly larger seam. When I changed to a 1/4 inch foot without out that metal piece hanging down....a clear foot so I could see through it, I found out that worked much better for me.

Maybe you are doing a similar thing? Or maybe you just need more practice. (I needed more practice also. I was pretty impatient with myself, expecting to conquer the 1/4 inch seam quickly because I had been a seamstress all my life, but I had never even thought of a seam smaller than 5/8 inch. I was just very impatient with myself.)

Dina

All excellent ideas. The smaller your blocks and the more seams in it, the greater chance to come up "short". If the "experts" at quilting saw how sloppy some of my techniques are--gasp!! Sometimes I use the markings on the well-worn mat, sometimes I use a ruler and I have 3. But excellent idea to use the same method/ruler throughout your project. I even use bobbin thread on the big spool that JoAnn's has on sale--good price/lots of thread. But it's skinny so it presses down well. One thing that hasn't been mentioned--I use the foot like Dina has. If I'm looking for a scant 1/4" seam, which you will probably want if the block has a lot of seams, try moving your needle one tip to the right. With mine, there is room to do that without the needle hitting the foot and I get better results. I hope your machine has that feature on it. It has been a big help to me.

This is my way. As long as it's consistent, I am fine with it. Of course, my quilts are just for me or family/friends.
When quilting, I find that 'smidge', 'smidgen', 'scant, 'just a bit' just seem to frustrate me.

I teach to always have the ruler on the 'good' piece cutting into the extra. So often the cutter can slip just a tad and cut into the fabric. If the piece you want is under the ruler, then your slip will be into the extra. Your line on the ruler should be on top of the line of the fabric, not to the left or right of the edge. Also, make sure you are holding the cutter straight up and down. Not only is this more accurate, but it is safer. Until you get your cutting more accurate, cut slightly bigger and trim the blocks down (if the pattern allows for this).

I have quilted for almost 20 years and close enough was good enough especially when you are doing the same block over and over. I an now working on "The Orphan Train" with 6 " blocks. Last night I spent quite a bit of time getting that 1/4" seam. I finally got it on my main machine. In order to get it I have to lay the ruler cutting line just a tad to the left of the fabric and also use a Scant 1/4. Then I worked on me 301 that I take to classes. I think I have done everything I need to but I have Aurifil thread and will use that. I think that will make all the difference. Thanks everyone for your help.

I do not deliberately cut "a smidge" larger - that is just a result of the distance the rotary blade cuts from the edge of the ruler - so I measured it to see how much that distance is.

Use the suggestion by Paperprincess. Also do you have a 1/4 inch foot. They are my favorite foot. Although you need to figure out exactly how to use it also to achieve a perfect 1/4 inch seam. Every machine is different. Even machines of the same brand. I need to move my needle over one click to get a perfect 1/4 inch.

I, too, think my piecing is off just that 'hair' that it's my cutting as well. I know I am not consistent. The other evening working in very dim light, I tried using some post-it notes on the ruler line and, honestly, it didn't help in that particular situation. I was only trimming batting on a baby quilt so wasn't overly concerned. I keep telling myself when I'm thinking about quilting and not actually quilting, that I must remember to use some painter's tape on my ruler to get my cutting consistency better. But then I forget when I get to the sewing room. Sigh. One of these days.

I still think one of the better ways to achieve accuracy is to do the "strip test" to see how one is doing as far as achieving accuracy. There are several factors to consider when attempting to achieve the desired size of the unit or block.

It also is worth the effort when changing fabrics, thread, presser feet rulers, - some fabrics have a lot more heft than others. What may get the hoped for result one time, may get a different result when one changes one of the other factors.

There are lots of great ideas here. I have one more. If you are cutting a lot of identical pieces -- once you have found the right place on the line -- mark it with a piece of tape. Put the tape along the appropriate line on the rules and use it as your cutting line. I use a short piece of painter's tape cause it comes off easily, can be reused and leaves no residue.

By marking your line with tape, you won't have to figure out where you want to position the ruler each time you move it. I read this idea years ago and have been very successful with it.

I learned to cut fabric and wood a fraction over the line on the ruler, just like pencil drawings, cutting wood/timber etc, and using a saw, we must allow for the width of the blade. I also use a proper 1/4" foot on my Brother machine with a guide to the right so that fabric sits against the guide as it feeds through.

I haven't read all of the responses so hope I'm not repeating ; I would get a 1/4" foot AND use a stack of post-its (I do mean a stack at least 1/4" high). I use Olfa cutting mats and rulers and have found I need to measure from the fat lines. Make sure your rulers and mats measurements are the same; using the same brand is a help, if not possible lay your ruler on your mat and see if they match in inches. If your machine has the option of moving the needle to the right or left, do some practice seams and see what needle setting gives you the accurate 1/4". I have to move my needle over 2 positions to the right even using the 1/4" foot.

I used to use the Omni grid rulers, but have found that the frosted Olfa rulers are actually much better. They have dashes as lines, so you can see the edge of the fabric very clearly.

It is the measurement between the seams that really matters.

I have found that if you have several seams in a block it is important to maintain the scant 1/4 seam. Also, in a class on precision piecing, the instructor recommend two things when using the rulers. Always use the same brand and line up with the larger side of the line.

I've read to cut on the right side of the line--the side the rotary blade is on. If anything it gives a smidgeon of an exra thread or so.

I'm finding that using a foot like that I still need to select the 1/4" foot menu and then move the needle to the right a couple of spaces.

I was using the foot with the little piece of metal hanging down. In hindsight, I think I was jamming the fabric up agains that too much, causing a slightly larger seam. When I changed to a 1/4 inch foot without out that metal piece hanging down....a clear foot so I could see through it, I found out that worked much better for me.

Maybe you are doing a similar thing? Or maybe you just need more practice. (I needed more practice also. I was pretty impatient with myself, expecting to conquer the 1/4 inch seam quickly because I had been a seamstress all my life, but I had never even thought of a seam smaller than 5/8 inch. I was just very impatient with myself.)

Dina[/QUOTE]

So true. Once you figure out the cutting, then work on the three strip practice piece and measure the center to see if it is what it should be.