I realize this is a basic quilting question,but one I continue to have trouble with. When I sew rows of blocks together, I pin the joints and everything looks perfect. Then I tend to take out the pins as running over can cause broken needles.
Can anyone suggest how to get your blocks lined up perfectly at the joints without so much back tracking; fixing blocks that moved.
Thanks, Mariah.

stitch length? too short maybe. do you have a walking foot/quilting foot? that helps move the fabrics along together better.
sometimes i piece at 2.2 and have no problems. maybe you need to do 2.4.
holding the fabrics with your fingers close to the foot as it moves along helps too. especially after you remove pins.

thanks for your answer. I believe the stitch got too short. I was using this new gadget that makes snowballs, geese, ect, for the first time, and didn't notice the stitch got so short until I was taking some out.
I need to get a walking foot. I know it would be a great investment. Believe for my featherweight it would be $125.00. I know it would solve a lot of problems.
Thanks again!
Mariah.

Try pressing the seam together BEFORE you stitch it. Make sure the seams at the joints are pressed the opposite direction and 'lock' together.

also helps if the seams go in opposite directions so that top one goes up and bottom one goes down and that helps them to stay lined up

Glue baste the joins instead of pinning the joins. I do this at the ironing board. Align the seams as you want them, then put the tiniest dot of glue inside the seamline and press with the hot iron. I use Elmer's washable white glue. The glue washes out later or, if you need to open up the seam, comes apart if moistened with a drop of water from your fingertip.

Note: It is still a good idea to pin an inch or so before each seam. You can take the pins out as you get to them so you don't sew over them. This helps ensure that you don't have excess fabric on top or bottom when you get to the glue-basted seam.

I place pins perpendicular to the edge of the fabric on either side of the existing seam (catching the seam allowance on the one side) but not into the seam line being stitched. Then you will not sew over the pins. This helps me.

I pin just before the join at each intersection; I also use a stilletto to support/guide/direct my fabric under the needle, especially when the seam is pressed the 'wrong' direction for that intersection.

On particularly troublesome pieces -- some fabric just plain has a stretchy mind of its own -- I might make 4-5 stitches exactly over the joins and then go back and sew the whole piece.
Jan in VA

Wonderful suggestions! I would not have thought of using the glue. I keep Elmer's Glue-washable for other things, so we always have it.
Seems like there are always "tricks" to these problems!
Thanks so00000000000000 much!
Mariah.

I am going to try that glue thing... I just got an applicator so I can put those small drops in the seam but I haven't had anything to try it out on yet.

A standard walking foot $14.95 will work great on FW. Thats what I use.

This is what I do plus I pin in the joint exactly and never take out my pins until I have sewn over them. I also press my seams prior to piecing as it makes it a much smoother process.

I can't remember the name of my pins but they are very fine and I sew over them as it does not cause a problem with my machine. I have a Pfaff that I piece on with a built in walking foot....couldn't imagine not using a walking foot. I know yours will be expensive but it will be well worth the frustration of not matching up your pieces and blocks. Maybe you could check around for a walking foot that is less expensive but the same quality.

HOBO2000, Where did you get your walking foot? I had an ad from an online sewing machine place, and they wanted the $125.
Thanks for the info; tell me where; I can almost afford $14.95!
Mariah.

Don't sew whole rows together. That avoids the problem totally. Even the tiniest differences multiply over the length of a row.

A featherweight uses a standard short shank walking foot which should be available for less than $20. I bought mine from a Singer dealer (surprise there still are a few) and paid $24.99. The only walking feet that should be $125 would be for a Bernina which will only work with a Bernina foot.

I place my pin right on the joined seamline and sew right up to the pin, stop and remove pin and go on. Once in awhile I sew right over the pin!

Reply to Shelbie,
Would you mind telling me where to find a Singer dealer? We had one in out town until about 15 yrs. ago, and I don't even know where this is one now.
Thanks,Mariah.

REply to Scissor Queen,
How do you do it then if you don't sew the entire row together?
Mariah

Another thing you can do is sew to the pin then do the next stitch over the pin by hand - as in move the wheel manually over the pin and continue on.

I do this and pin just past the center "lock" - then while sewing I stop a stitch short of the pin itself and remove it before continuing. Slow but sure.

That was one of my downfalls; stitching over the pins, and I broke a needle not long ago.
Mariah

We have a Singer dealer in the town where I shop. PM me & I'll give you the info if you want to contact him. Its in NW Montana, but shipping won't be much, wherever you buy for that small an item.

I'm interested to know too,.

I usually do this but when I sew over the pin - I slow WAY down. I also make sure that the seams are pressed in the opposite directions so that they nestle together. If I take the pin out before I get to the point/seam I use a stilletto, as Jan in VA discussed, - that makes sure that that they sty together.

I have also seen where some sewers hand tack points and seams that they are especially concerned about.

Oh! good idea, I never thought of that. Sometimes I sew so slowly with my machine that it would be almost as fast tacking the points first

:thumbup:

Heres somthing you might try too. When sewing 2 long rows of blocks together. Just pin and sew where the "joints" are.
Not the whole long row. That way if you have any tearing out to do its only a couple of inches. Sew, check your work, if theres no tearing out then go back and sew your seam.

My walking foot for my Featherweight is an AlphaSew and it wasn't very expenxive. Under $25.00 with shipping .

My walking foot for my Featherweight is an AlphaSew and it wasn't very expenxive. Under $25.00 with shipping .

My greatest help is to use a stiletto to help guide and keep the top fabric from being pushed back towards me as it goes under the foot.

I have been a big believer of Elmer's Glue for a long time. Since I don't have one of those tip applicators, I use a paint brush. I put some on a piece of saran wrap or a paper plate and use a small paint brush to apply the glue. Works great and washes out of the paint brush.

OMG, I can't believe all the good ideas! You guys are awesome!

Ironing so that the seams fit together helps a lot. I pin parallel to the seam, out of the way of the seam allowance. That way I can keep the pins in until I'm done.

I would suggest removing the pins at the very last instant before you sew over them. Also maybe using finer (thinner) pins when pinning blocks together. Jeanniebelle

I pin just outside the seam line parallel to the edge of the fabric. That way you don't sew over the pins and they keep the fabric in place. I have never seen this tip on any of the quilt shows. Am I the only one who does this?

I use a toothpick for those tiny spots of glue, then I don't have to worry about cleaning out the applicator tip

I always pin the two seams and then I sew upto the pen before taking the pin out. I have to sew slow but this works for me. Shorten the stitch length as well

I press, pin and remove just as I get to the pin (have to raise the presser foot to remove it) hold in place with a stiletto. Works every time.

THANKS EVERYONE, for all of the great suggestions. I had a few blocks that didn't seat before I wrote.
I went back yesterday eve., and used the glue suggestion, and re-did those blocks. They look perfect!!
thanks so much everyone!!
Mariah.

fork pins--my newest best quilting friends. never got a point seam so exact.

You sew all of your blocks in to pairs. Then you sew the pairs in to giant four patches. Then you sew the giant four patches in to even bigger four patches until you have the quilt in quarters. Sew the top half together and then the bottom half together and then sew the two halves together. You only have one full width seam and your quilt comes out squarer and all your block seams match perfectly.

Number each row and block and press all the odd row seams to the left and all the even row seams to the right.