Seating b locks....
#1

I realize this is a basic quilting question,but one I continue to have trouble with. When I sew rows of blocks together, I pin the joints and everything looks perfect. Then I tend to take out the pins as running over can cause broken needles.
Can anyone suggest how to get your blocks lined up perfectly at the joints without so much back tracking; fixing blocks that moved.
Thanks, Mariah.
Can anyone suggest how to get your blocks lined up perfectly at the joints without so much back tracking; fixing blocks that moved.
Thanks, Mariah.
#2

stitch length? too short maybe. do you have a walking foot/quilting foot? that helps move the fabrics along together better.
sometimes i piece at 2.2 and have no problems. maybe you need to do 2.4.
holding the fabrics with your fingers close to the foot as it moves along helps too. especially after you remove pins.
sometimes i piece at 2.2 and have no problems. maybe you need to do 2.4.
holding the fabrics with your fingers close to the foot as it moves along helps too. especially after you remove pins.
#3

thanks for your answer. I believe the stitch got too short. I was using this new gadget that makes snowballs, geese, ect, for the first time, and didn't notice the stitch got so short until I was taking some out.
I need to get a walking foot. I know it would be a great investment. Believe for my featherweight it would be $125.00. I know it would solve a lot of problems.
Thanks again!
Mariah.
I need to get a walking foot. I know it would be a great investment. Believe for my featherweight it would be $125.00. I know it would solve a lot of problems.
Thanks again!
Mariah.
#6
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Western Wisconsin
Posts: 12,930

Glue baste the joins instead of pinning the joins. I do this at the ironing board. Align the seams as you want them, then put the tiniest dot of glue inside the seamline and press with the hot iron. I use Elmer's washable white glue. The glue washes out later or, if you need to open up the seam, comes apart if moistened with a drop of water from your fingertip.
Note: It is still a good idea to pin an inch or so before each seam. You can take the pins out as you get to them so you don't sew over them. This helps ensure that you don't have excess fabric on top or bottom when you get to the glue-basted seam.
Note: It is still a good idea to pin an inch or so before each seam. You can take the pins out as you get to them so you don't sew over them. This helps ensure that you don't have excess fabric on top or bottom when you get to the glue-basted seam.
#7

I place pins perpendicular to the edge of the fabric on either side of the existing seam (catching the seam allowance on the one side) but not into the seam line being stitched. Then you will not sew over the pins. This helps me.
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Piedmont Virginia in the Foothills of the Blue Ridge Mtns.
Posts: 8,562

I pin just before the join at each intersection; I also use a stilletto to support/guide/direct my fabric under the needle, especially when the seam is pressed the 'wrong' direction for that intersection.
On particularly troublesome pieces -- some fabric just plain has a stretchy mind of its own -- I might make 4-5 stitches exactly over the joins and then go back and sew the whole piece.
Jan in VA
On particularly troublesome pieces -- some fabric just plain has a stretchy mind of its own -- I might make 4-5 stitches exactly over the joins and then go back and sew the whole piece.
Jan in VA
#9

Wonderful suggestions! I would not have thought of using the glue. I keep Elmer's Glue-washable for other things, so we always have it.
Seems like there are always "tricks" to these problems!
Thanks so00000000000000 much!
Mariah.
Seems like there are always "tricks" to these problems!
Thanks so00000000000000 much!
Mariah.
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