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loves2quilt 05-21-2009 02:26 PM

what kind of paper do you use? I was taught to use freezer paper and find thats the only way I can do it now. I found a pattern and printed out the template on regular paper and now Im tracing that pattern onto freezer paper...very tedious...there are 4 blocks to make one block, and you need 20 blocks, so I need to trace that template..80 times!!! It is taking me forever..is there a better way to do this? I also got a brainstorm..figured Id just print it onto freezer paper...well, my copier didnt like that, chewed up the paper and broke off a little roller...now nothing will print...geez..I think I can fix it with super glue, keeping my fingers crossed. So if you have a better way to do this without all the tracing Id love to hear it, cause Im stumped!!

kluedesigns 05-21-2009 02:33 PM

if i'm going to take out the foundation i use velum if its staying in to add support to the fabrics i use interfacing.

azam 05-21-2009 02:37 PM

Try newsprint paper, you can purchase it at a school supply. I'm not sure if they carry it at an office supply store. I suppose you can call and find out. Hope this helps!!!

BellaBoo 05-21-2009 02:49 PM

Kids scribble/drawing pads that have the tanish color paper works great. It prints fine in an ink jet printer. I find I have to trim 1/2 off the width but I do a stack at a time. I like the pads sold at Staples called Kids Scribble pad, three pads to a package.

One thing you could do is sew the outline of the pattern through several layers of freezer paper using no thread and a used needlle. Deli sandwich paper works good for sewing through.


MadQuilter 05-21-2009 03:00 PM


Originally Posted by loves2quilt
now Im tracing that pattern onto freezer paper...very tedious...there are 4 blocks to make one block, and you need 20 blocks, so I need to trace that template..80 times!!

Why don't you get the freezer paper in 8.5x11 sheets and run it through the printer? I would either create a template page on a computer paint type/graphics program or print the pattern off an existing pattern file (pdf).

SaraSewing 05-21-2009 03:31 PM

I just buy cheap copy paper. Run it through a regular copier. It works fine.

mic-pa 05-21-2009 03:51 PM

I actually buy paper sheets sold by Carol Doak who is the queen of foundation paper pcing. It goes thru my printer without a problem and is lighter weight. Easy to sew thru. Marge

amma 05-21-2009 03:52 PM


Originally Posted by saravincent
I just buy cheap copy paper. Run it through a regular copier. It works fine.

This is what I use too. When I am ready to remove it I fold it first and sometimes run my finger along the fold and then open it back up and then it tears off very neatly. I very rarely need to pick out any little paper pieces. I do sometimes use news print, I bought a end roll of it from my local newspaper for little of nothing and it is handy for making bigger blocks :wink:

mimisharon 05-21-2009 03:53 PM


Originally Posted by saravincent
I just buy cheap copy paper. Run it through a regular copier. It works fine.

Me, too, I try to find the recycled copy paper, it tears away easier and it's a cinch to copy onto sew onto. I haven't used freezer paper since the first paper piecing I tried on my own. It's to heavy for pp. I only use it for templates now.

sandpat 05-21-2009 03:58 PM

I'm with the cheap copy paper users...it works for me without any problems.

pocoellie 05-21-2009 04:01 PM

I just use regular cheap copy paper, if you could find the eraser typing paper it would probably be even better, but good luck in finding that. I'm not sure I'll ever get done with the WIP that I'm doing in oriental type fabrics. I just figured out how many I would need-225-WOW. Maybe I'll just make my Japanese friend a wall hanging.LOL

Lacelady 05-25-2009 12:24 PM

For simple squares, I used graph paper, and just cut on the lines. I am making a postage stamp quilt this way, with the squares 2cms x 2cms, and couldn't contemplate tracing.

Cookn 05-25-2009 12:54 PM

I use Carol Doaks paper also. You'll find that if you decrease your stitch length and use a 90/14 needles your foundations will tear easier.

bearisgray 05-25-2009 12:57 PM

paper foundation piecing

I had this great idea to sew down the edges 1/8 inch from the edge to keep the pieces from flopping around. Not a good idea. A real challenge to remove it after piecing the individual squares.

I have learned so much the hard way. Seemed like such a good idea at the time.javascript:emoticon(':?');

kluedesigns 05-25-2009 01:55 PM


Originally Posted by Lacelady
For simple squares, I used graph paper, and just cut on the lines. I am making a postage stamp quilt this way, with the squares 2cms x 2cms, and couldn't contemplate tracing.

what a great idea!

Lacelady 05-25-2009 02:38 PM

Thank you Klue - I meant that I am using mine the English Paper piecing way, but perhaps I didn't read the question right, as most people seem to be thinking along the foundation line?

kluedesigns 05-25-2009 02:43 PM

thats so true - foundation piecing has taken over the term paper piecing and English paper piecing has to have the English in front of it.

do you do all your work by hand? maybe thats why the 2 paper piecing styles are used - one is for hand piecing and the other is by machine.

Shemjo 05-25-2009 02:46 PM

English pp -freezer paper works best for me. I can run it through my printer if I cut it slightly smaller than regular paper. The leading edge HAS to be straight across. :?

butterflywing 05-25-2009 04:18 PM

american paper piecing i use newsprint. i used to buy carol doakes but i don't find it any better.

if you use a lightbox, you should be able to use almost anything.

judee0624 05-25-2009 04:32 PM


Originally Posted by mimisharon

Originally Posted by saravincent
I just buy cheap copy paper. Run it through a regular copier. It works fine.

Me, too, I try to find the recycled copy paper, it tears away easier and it's a cinch to copy onto sew onto. I haven't used freezer paper since the first paper piecing I tried on my own. It's to heavy for pp. I only use it for templates now.

Me three, though I have been using a very pricey template paper by Pearl Pereira Designs. I also tried some thin paper by That Patchwork Place but my printer literally chewed it up. It was kind of like drawing paper also mentioned by someone here. Now I just use the regular copy paper. Works fine.
judee

rosie the ripper 05-25-2009 08:16 PM

Carol Doak's is the way togo. Reasonably priced too

motomom 05-25-2009 08:57 PM

I've been using cheap crappy copier paper. The cheapest I could find. It held up fine, worked in my printer fine, and with one fold at the seam line, tore off like a dream. No problems!

judee0624 05-25-2009 08:58 PM

Where do you get Carol Doak's paper?

judee

mommaB 05-26-2009 06:23 AM

I used tracing paper I got at Staples, but you have to trim it so it fits in the printer. I liked it because I'm new at it and I could see through a little. But its a little pricey. Cheapy printer paper would work too!!

Lacelady 05-26-2009 01:10 PM

All my English paper pieceing I do by hand, mostly with my feet up, in front of the TV, but also when travelling. The hand work comes into its own when I am too tired to sit at the machine.

mar32428 05-27-2009 06:56 AM

I'm with the others. I use cheap copy paper, very small stitches and an #80 needle. I've been paper piecing for years and love it. With the smaller stitches, I just hope I don't have to unsew. Check twice before you sew.

marta 05-27-2009 07:33 AM

I had the same problem with getting blocks onto Muslin. I ironed the Muslin onto freezer paper, then ran it through the printer. It had to be no larger than 8and 1/2x11" since that is it for home printers. Or, you could take it to a print place for larger size.
If you do it this way, make it longer than needed, as there is a time in the copying for it to grasp the paper. I did some experimenting and it worked for me.
Let me know if it works.
[email protected]

sheliab12 05-27-2009 07:48 AM

I found the best way is to scan pattern into computer and print out. Make sure the size is correct b4 you do al of them. the Tablet paper that they sell at Wal mart or anywhere they sell school supplies, is very good. It looks like the paper we use to us to practice printing on with the 3 big lines but is has no lines. It is only $2.00 and that is for a whole tablet. Tear if off and feed it into your printer. When you are done the paper is very easy to tear away. Hope this helps. Shelia

sew'n'sew 05-27-2009 07:58 AM

First of all I have never used freezer paper for paper piecing as it is too heavy and stiff and I can think of no advantage to using it. The thinner your paper is the better. Tissue paper is good but hard to use in a printer for copies. Cheap news print works fairly well and squares of "sandwich wrap" are great if your printer cooperates and you cut it to the right size. It is available at Smart and Final stores or restaurant supply stores, otherwise I use the cheapest light weight copy paper I can find.
The only use I find for freezer paper for quilting is to iron white muslin to it for photo copies in your printer or using double thickness fused together for applique. :)

Belles.hold 05-27-2009 08:10 AM

Well, you certainly received a lot of suggestions for a foundation for paper piecing. When I was teaching paper piecing I used vellium that I purchased from a neighborhood printer and after running the pattern through my printer, distributed a few sheets to the students. Vellium is easy to see through and you can remove it from the block easily. For personal use I use newspaper paper, purchased at an office supply store. Newspaper paper is thinner than vellium, but after cuting down to 8.5" x 11", it goes through the printer beautifully and is removed from the block quickly. For a complex block (New York Beauty or Mariner's Compass), I use non-fusible interfacing that remains in the quilt. You can also purchase Carol Doak's paper at Joann's (and use the 40% off coupon because it's a little pricy). Good luck with whatever you decide on.

weezie 05-27-2009 09:56 AM

It's been a long while since I did any paper piecing. I'm a bit uncoordinated and have a heckuva time getting all the pieces right side up, etc., etc. Before my one attempt into the paper piecing world, I bought paper specifically designed for paper piecing (from Nancy's Notions catalog, I think). Anyway, if I recall correctly, I only drew the pattern once, then, following along the drawn lines, I sewed through several paper thicknesses (old needle -- no thread) on my sewing machine so that I could use the needle perforations for several blocks instead of having to draw the lines repeatedly. Hope I'm making myself clear ... I've learned that just because I know what I'm talking about does not mean that anyone else does.

loves2quilt 05-27-2009 11:13 AM

Wow, thats what I love about this site, ask one question and get many different answers!!! It seems there are many techniques out there and we each have a personal preference.What I ended up doing was sewing through several sheets of paper with an old needle and no thread and that worked for me and I understood you perfectly weezie! I wont be buying the vellum or printers paper anytime soon, only because since I got laid off I have to really watch my pennies...but once I am able to I will try it. :D

quilter1962 05-27-2009 11:21 AM

I have only ever used photocopier paper - LOL listen to this - I do have some of Carol Doaks paper also but I always forget to use it. I seem to be having lots of special moments coming my way these days. What am I like. :lol:

Tisha

conblond2005 05-27-2009 12:05 PM

I would rather paper piece with regular copy paper. I've done the freezer paper copies too. It's easy to tear off if you just run a large pin down the seams before you tear them off. I've never tried copies of the freezer paper on my printer. I just drew them out with a maker. It was supposed to be for a class and she wanted us to have 3 copies. It's for the fan dance quilt I've been working on. The teacher wanted us to learn to fold the paper back and sew just off the edge of the paper so there wouldn't be anything you had to tear. Of course it was during a snow storm and we couldn't go and paid the $45 for the book and copies. No refunds were offered. Boo Hoo

himom122 05-27-2009 12:41 PM

thy copying only one then staple several sheets together. Then you take it to your sewing machine and sew the pattern with no thread. Do this enough to make your eighty copies.

conblond2005 05-27-2009 12:47 PM

I didn't have a light box but put one together using my sewing machine lamp and used a plastic tote. Worked so great I won't ever need to buy a box.

Deloris 05-27-2009 01:15 PM

I use paper called UV/ULTRAII translucent printing paper. It says it's 8.5 M weight. Staples printed the paper piecing pattern

conblond2005 05-27-2009 02:17 PM

himom122

That is a really great idea to use. Thanks

Quiltin'Lady 05-27-2009 02:26 PM

Most of the time I paper piece using very lightweight interfacing (with the pattern traced on) that I just leave in place. This works great for wall hangings or hotpads, etc. Not to good for baby quilts or things that will be handled a lot (it makes it too stiff, IMO).

One thing that I've just learned in the worst way possible is NOT to use a ballpoint pen to trace the pattern (what what I thinking??). Not only can you see it from the front, but it has a way of bleeding onto the fabric even after it's been 'removed' -- and no amount of soaking, hairspray, etc, etc, will get it all out.

I've just thrown out a lovely quilt because of this. Completely stupid on my part, for sure. :cry:


bearisgray 05-27-2009 03:20 PM


Originally Posted by Quiltin'Lady
Most of the time I paper piece using very lightweight interfacing (with the pattern traced on) that I just leave in place. This works great for wall hangings or hotpads, etc. Not to good for baby quilts or things that will be handled a lot (it makes it too stiff, IMO).

One thing that I've just learned in the worst way possible is NOT to use a ballpoint pen to trace the pattern (what what I thinking??). Not only can you see it from the front, but it has a way of bleeding onto the fabric even after it's been 'removed' -- and no amount of soaking, hairspray, etc, etc, will get it all out.

I've just thrown out a lovely quilt because of this. Completely stupid on my part, for sure. :cry:

Well, now you know not to - thanks for sharing -


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