Pulling My HAIR OUT !!!!!!
#11
Don't be discouraged DesertNurse. There are some great positives here. Firstly, let me say it happens to us all at the beginning. Here is your opportunity to start your 'Orphan Box' ... put the ones you really are unhappy with in there, believe me they will be used later for something else, call your disappointment a 'learning curve' and try again, the experience you gain with be well worth it. Enjoy your quilting and wipe away those tears. Hugs and good wishes,
Mary B
Mary B
#12
If you used Flying Geese sewn to a central square ... then I suggest you make some FG in different ways and see which best works for you.
One central rectangle with 2 squares sewn at the corners.
Sewing well starched triangles to a central isoscolese trapezoid. [ 2sides parallel, and the other sides equal in length, though not parallel.]
Using a FG ruler - beware, there are many out there, so try before you buy.
Paper Piecing: Triangles on a Roll has FG, as does a few other comapnies. Your LQS should have some.
Triangulations, I think then also have FG. I haven't used these but some quilters love the program.
Also do a 'net' search for Flying Geese. There are several tutes on the net, including John Flynn's method.
One central rectangle with 2 squares sewn at the corners.
Sewing well starched triangles to a central isoscolese trapezoid. [ 2sides parallel, and the other sides equal in length, though not parallel.]
Using a FG ruler - beware, there are many out there, so try before you buy.
Paper Piecing: Triangles on a Roll has FG, as does a few other comapnies. Your LQS should have some.
Triangulations, I think then also have FG. I haven't used these but some quilters love the program.
Also do a 'net' search for Flying Geese. There are several tutes on the net, including John Flynn's method.
Last edited by AliKat; 01-23-2013 at 10:20 PM.
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Northern California, Sonoma Co.
Posts: 2,814
I would put the blocks together, even if wonky. Years from now, you will look back and see how much progress you've made. Every quilt is a good quilt -- it doesn't have to be perfect!
#15
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Central Pa
Posts: 521
I had the same complaint last week! lol I worked so hard to make the pattern even when cutting I couldn't figure out why it was so crooked when I started piecing them together! Then someone asked if I ironed instead of pressed. Ironing stretches the fabric. It really does! I'm pressing on the project I'm working on now and what a huge difference! Who would have thunk it? Don't know if this applies to you but it's worth a mention.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lived in San Diego now retired in Eagar, AZ.
Posts: 887
i would suggest a 'custom' frame system... frame each block separately with either a matching fabric or different for each block to complement each block's colors... use a generous 2.5 or 3 inches... then after assembling... measure all to find the smallest block (they will be different because of each star's original size before framing. After you find the smallest one, trim all other to the same size, squaring up as you go... now they will all fit together perfectly and no one will be able to see the tiny difference from block to block... This is a method i often use when i find antique or stacks of unfinished blocks... you can make everything the same size without sacrificing any of the first round of work whether it's yours or someone elses'...good luck
#17
As QuiltnMyra says "Enjoy your quilting and wipe away those tears.."
#18
Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 25
Before you do anything more to your hair . . .
. . . rest and see if you can figure what you did "wrong." With planning, you can join diamonds so those center seams are paired--one on grain, one bias. That helps.
When you set in the squares/triangles between the diamonds, don't stitch past the dot. When you're in the middle of a seam, stop a stitch or two before before the dot and back stitch. When the seam is made, pull out any stitches that are in any of the seam allowances. At the outside edge of the block, the seams can be sewn from the raw edge (ignore "dot" rule).
When you join the quarter units together, the center has to match then--you can't adjust when all 8 are together.
If you decide to unstitch, do it by clipping the stitches from one side and pull the thread out from the other when it's loose. You don't want to pull on the edge of the patch and stretch it more out of shape.
Press all the seams in the same direction, working around the center. They should marry to make matching easier.
Use fine (.05) pins and fine (aurifil or similar) thread when lots of seam allowances meet. It helps keep the points crisp.
When you set in the squares/triangles between the diamonds, don't stitch past the dot. When you're in the middle of a seam, stop a stitch or two before before the dot and back stitch. When the seam is made, pull out any stitches that are in any of the seam allowances. At the outside edge of the block, the seams can be sewn from the raw edge (ignore "dot" rule).
When you join the quarter units together, the center has to match then--you can't adjust when all 8 are together.
If you decide to unstitch, do it by clipping the stitches from one side and pull the thread out from the other when it's loose. You don't want to pull on the edge of the patch and stretch it more out of shape.
Press all the seams in the same direction, working around the center. They should marry to make matching easier.
Use fine (.05) pins and fine (aurifil or similar) thread when lots of seam allowances meet. It helps keep the points crisp.
#19
Without seeing your blocks, it's impossible to tell for sure. The fact that you tried so hard leads me to believe that the issue is pressing. During assembly or final. check for folds pressed at the seams. The wonky statement says to me you ironed. When I run into a challenge like that I have a pressing board that i drew square sizes on with pigma pen. I will pin a block to the correct size and spray back with starch(before pinning) and press the front. Often all that is needed is to tell the block what is needed from it LOL
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