Question about making bias strips
06-10-2020, 07:48 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 85
Question about making bias strips
I have the need to make a lot of bias strips for a quilt I'm making. I've used the method where you start with a square, draw lines, sew the sides together off-set, then cut along the lines to end up with a tremendously long bias strip.
However!
I can't cut straight to save my life when using scissors, as required by this method. So my bias strips are as uneven and choppy as all get-out along the edges, and I can't even escape it by turning under the edges, as they are meant to be applied on this quilt with the raw edges exposed.
Does anyone have any tips for cutting those bias strips? Or do I need to go back to just plain cutting a piece of fabric on the bias, many times, using a ruler, and then sewing them all together??
Or should I just give it up as a bad job and try to source some 2" wide bias tape somewhere???
Thanks for any tips!
However!
I can't cut straight to save my life when using scissors, as required by this method. So my bias strips are as uneven and choppy as all get-out along the edges, and I can't even escape it by turning under the edges, as they are meant to be applied on this quilt with the raw edges exposed.
Does anyone have any tips for cutting those bias strips? Or do I need to go back to just plain cutting a piece of fabric on the bias, many times, using a ruler, and then sewing them all together??
Or should I just give it up as a bad job and try to source some 2" wide bias tape somewhere???
Thanks for any tips!
06-10-2020, 08:07 AM
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 9,268
Use sharp scissors
Make your bias tape on the diagonal. It lays down so much neater when ironing. I know sharp scissors sounded like a smart arse comment....lol I used to be an Upholsterer long ago, I have cut miles and miles of bias strips for use on furniture, automobile interiors etc. And having your scissors sharp makes for a cleaner edge.
Another option is a metal edge like this: This one is rather pricey but any aluminum straight piece of metal will work. Check the metal section at Home Depot they have some pieces around 48" which is perfect for use on a cutting table. With is method you can use a rotary blade.
https://www.cutting-mats.net/safety-...dges-2796.html
Make your bias tape on the diagonal. It lays down so much neater when ironing. I know sharp scissors sounded like a smart arse comment....lol I used to be an Upholsterer long ago, I have cut miles and miles of bias strips for use on furniture, automobile interiors etc. And having your scissors sharp makes for a cleaner edge.
Another option is a metal edge like this: This one is rather pricey but any aluminum straight piece of metal will work. Check the metal section at Home Depot they have some pieces around 48" which is perfect for use on a cutting table. With is method you can use a rotary blade.
https://www.cutting-mats.net/safety-...dges-2796.html
06-10-2020, 09:09 AM
#4
Super Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 4,422
Here is one technique that I use.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wOU8FR3S4o
I have also cut bias strips using the AQ die system and a half yard of fabric.
https://blog.accuquilt.com/when-where-use-bias-binding
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wOU8FR3S4o
I have also cut bias strips using the AQ die system and a half yard of fabric.
https://blog.accuquilt.com/when-where-use-bias-binding
06-10-2020, 10:31 AM
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,058
Seattle was out of elastic early and I've been making a lot of bias for masks, as I use two yards for each mask.
So you are starting with a square, then cutting that in half, form them to make a pennant or fangs (which ever reference you prefer) and then sew into a tube and cut continuous bias? There are times when you need shorter pieces of bias and yes, just cutting the angles off a half yard of fabric may be the way to go.
Here's a calculator to figure out how big a square you might need:
http://www.quiltersparadiseesc.com/C...Calculator.php
All I know is that one width of fabric (40") is more than I ever need for a queen sized quilt and I cut rather large at that.
So here's the hints that help me -- I just rough cut when I'm making my triangles, typically I lay the fabric out on my ironing board and press the diagonal line.
After I sew that first seam, I use that to true up my rectangle, making sure my first row is full width all the way across. Again, using that straight seam and the markings on my ruler along with the first careful edge, I draw my widths across the fabric.
Only then do I verify the angle on the sides. Using what I have determined to be my straight lines, I position my ruler and trim the sides. If you are ever having problems with excess fabric when you know your rows are correct, the problem is your angle.
I am not afraid to draw on the reverse side of my fabric. Typically I use regular pencil. When I've corrected the edge, I'll go ahead and draw my seam allowance as well, and then I pin the points together.
To help get the offset, there is always one short row near the seam. Trim that down the pencil drawn line about six inches or so, then just line up the rest of the rows. Stick a pin in where your lines/seam line meets and match it up with the other side.
Then it's slowly follow those lines with sharp scissors, making your scissor cuts smooth. You can also carefully rotary cut it, but that is so high stress for me I'd rather use scissors.
With my masks I've been using my leftover quilt bias which is way too big, you really want your raw cuts 1.5", and usually I'm cutting at 3.00". I find I rather like the smooth results I get trimming down my bias. I find it easiest to fold and cut once, rather than trying to trim two long straight sides. So you would start with something wider than 2", fold in half the long way and trim 1" for an unfolded 2".
Any pressing/folding I'm doing I find easier to do in smaller chunks than my big piece of continuous binding. Since I use 36" lengths, I cut the raw binding to that before trying to trim or press or otherwise mess with it.
So you are starting with a square, then cutting that in half, form them to make a pennant or fangs (which ever reference you prefer) and then sew into a tube and cut continuous bias? There are times when you need shorter pieces of bias and yes, just cutting the angles off a half yard of fabric may be the way to go.
Here's a calculator to figure out how big a square you might need:
http://www.quiltersparadiseesc.com/C...Calculator.php
All I know is that one width of fabric (40") is more than I ever need for a queen sized quilt and I cut rather large at that.
So here's the hints that help me -- I just rough cut when I'm making my triangles, typically I lay the fabric out on my ironing board and press the diagonal line.
After I sew that first seam, I use that to true up my rectangle, making sure my first row is full width all the way across. Again, using that straight seam and the markings on my ruler along with the first careful edge, I draw my widths across the fabric.
Only then do I verify the angle on the sides. Using what I have determined to be my straight lines, I position my ruler and trim the sides. If you are ever having problems with excess fabric when you know your rows are correct, the problem is your angle.
I am not afraid to draw on the reverse side of my fabric. Typically I use regular pencil. When I've corrected the edge, I'll go ahead and draw my seam allowance as well, and then I pin the points together.
To help get the offset, there is always one short row near the seam. Trim that down the pencil drawn line about six inches or so, then just line up the rest of the rows. Stick a pin in where your lines/seam line meets and match it up with the other side.
Then it's slowly follow those lines with sharp scissors, making your scissor cuts smooth. You can also carefully rotary cut it, but that is so high stress for me I'd rather use scissors.
With my masks I've been using my leftover quilt bias which is way too big, you really want your raw cuts 1.5", and usually I'm cutting at 3.00". I find I rather like the smooth results I get trimming down my bias. I find it easiest to fold and cut once, rather than trying to trim two long straight sides. So you would start with something wider than 2", fold in half the long way and trim 1" for an unfolded 2".
Any pressing/folding I'm doing I find easier to do in smaller chunks than my big piece of continuous binding. Since I use 36" lengths, I cut the raw binding to that before trying to trim or press or otherwise mess with it.
06-11-2020, 04:15 AM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 85
Why yes, I do have a rotary cutter, but the continuous loop method kind of makes it hard to use....I guess if you had a small enough mat to stick inside the "loop" of fabric, you could use the rotary cutter, but I don't have one that small.
06-11-2020, 07:27 AM
#9
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,058
PiedPiper, even with a separate small cutting mat it still makes me nervous, but you can use the corner of your regular mat or with extreme concentration and contortion of both yourself and your fabric, just make sure you are cutting through a single layer at a time. Yowza, I get tense just thinking of it.
I did a thread a month or two ago, and it was suggested that I get new scissors when I mentioned I was getting my best cutting from lower down the blade. You may not ever be able to use the tip of a given pair of scissors to cut smoothly with, just because of the leverage and the physical motion of the blades and the fabric -- but not all scissors are created equal. I certainly do need a better pair of applique/fine work scissors than I currently have even if I can get by for now with my larger pairs.
Like everything else, I first look at what I want to do, and then what are my options, and then what feels best to me. Whatever scissors feel best or are recommended by others don't matter if they don't feel right to you! And then I concentrate on getting the results I want, which doesn't always mean I get them how I want them. I want to take big 6" scissor cuts of my bias at a time... in real life with my actual current scissors I can only handle about 1.5-3" max smoothly at a time. I want smooth, I have a way to get it. And then I avoid the effort the rest of the time
I did a thread a month or two ago, and it was suggested that I get new scissors when I mentioned I was getting my best cutting from lower down the blade. You may not ever be able to use the tip of a given pair of scissors to cut smoothly with, just because of the leverage and the physical motion of the blades and the fabric -- but not all scissors are created equal. I certainly do need a better pair of applique/fine work scissors than I currently have even if I can get by for now with my larger pairs.
Like everything else, I first look at what I want to do, and then what are my options, and then what feels best to me. Whatever scissors feel best or are recommended by others don't matter if they don't feel right to you! And then I concentrate on getting the results I want, which doesn't always mean I get them how I want them. I want to take big 6" scissor cuts of my bias at a time... in real life with my actual current scissors I can only handle about 1.5-3" max smoothly at a time. I want smooth, I have a way to get it. And then I avoid the effort the rest of the time
06-11-2020, 08:22 AM
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Waterford Michigan
Posts: 7,241
I use a piece of continuous yardage to cut my longer strips of bias tapes. It leaves a great deal of smaller pieces as it moves along but in the end when I piece things together and run it through the bias tape folders and press it all comes together just the way I want it. Cutting it from the whole yardages makes it ready for the next cutting.
